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Old 11-11-2010, 10:43 PM   #1
JustJeff
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Polishing intake runners

I'm curious what people think about polishing intakes?

I'm specifically interested in polishing the intake runners on the irons, but also interested about polishing the runners on the LIM and UIM.

I'm in the middle of a rebuild on a JDM S5 13B that is mostly stock. I'm not doing any porting of irons or housings. I had a friend suggest I polish the intake runners on my irons, but to me it seems like the benefits from that would be minimal at best.

I suppose all things being equal polishing wont hurt anything. But I'm all out of those types of bits for my dremel and don't want to spend $40 on bits for little or no gain.
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Old 11-11-2010, 11:50 PM   #2
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You don't want to polish the runners at all. Clean them up sure, but I wouldn't go any finer than a 220 sanding wheel.

What should benefit you more than polishing the runners is portmatching EVERYTHING. Elbow to TB, TB to UIM, UIM to LIM, LIM to block.
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Old 11-12-2010, 12:12 AM   #3
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^ Got any links. I understand the idea of port matching but not the procedure.
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Old 11-12-2010, 09:05 AM   #4
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Dealing with port matching, porting, shaping, polishing, ect. can be VERY trick.

Paul Yaw did a test on a 12a with a flow bench. One port matched, one stock. The stock one produced better flow and power. And he knows what he's doing. Not guess work.

It's a hit or miss without a dyno or a flow bench. But in saying that, I always port, shape, and mess with my intake manifolds, TB's, ect. If it works cool, if not, I'm not trying to set records... so no big deal.
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Old 11-12-2010, 10:05 AM   #5
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You are correct, if you're not testing you're guessing and I did read that "blog" by Paul. However, it has been documented that there are gains to be had on the RE mani with port-matching and honing... so I did it damnit.
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2000 Jeep Cherokee Sport - Wifey mobile - Now with 2.5" OME lift and 30" BFG AT KO's! So it begins
1998 Jeep Cherokee - 5 spd, 4" lift, 33" BFG's - Rotary Tow Vehicle
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1988 FC Coupe - Gretchen -The attention whore BEAST!


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It's a truck with a steel gate on the back. Just a statement of fact

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No Bolt-ons allowed. Dyno'ed @ Speed1 Tuned by me - 405rwhp on WG.... WM50 cuming soon.
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Old 11-12-2010, 12:19 PM   #6
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There are plenty of designs online to build a home made flow bench on the cheap. I'm just wondering if its worth the space it will take up if your just doing it for fun. Now if I was competing or trying to break records, I would build one and test my manifolds before I did anything else...
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Old 11-12-2010, 04:10 PM   #7
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Links? I've got a spare set of mani's that are bone stock right now that I wouldn't mind testing before and after...
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2015 Audi S4 - Samantha - Zero Brap S4
2004 RX8 - Jocelyn - 196rwhp, 19mpg fuel to noise converter
2000 Jeep Cherokee Sport - Wifey mobile - Now with 2.5" OME lift and 30" BFG AT KO's! So it begins
1998 Jeep Cherokee - 5 spd, 4" lift, 33" BFG's - Rotary Tow Vehicle
1988 'Vert - In progress
1988 FC Coupe - Gretchen -The attention whore BEAST!


I'm a sick individual, what's wrong with you?
I'm pure Evil
I'm still insane, in the best possible way.
I think Brian's idea of romance is using lube.
Your rage caused the meteor strike in Russia. The Antichrist would be proud of his minion.
You win with your thread. Most everything
It's a truck with a steel gate on the back. Just a statement of fact

Motec M820, AIM dash, ported 13B-RE Cosmo, 6-spd trans, 4.3 Torsen, custom twin wg fully divided mani, Custom 4" split into 2x 3" exhaust, Custom HMIC, Custom custom custom custom I like to welder stuff....
No Bolt-ons allowed. Dyno'ed @ Speed1 Tuned by me - 405rwhp on WG.... WM50 cuming soon.
-Angry Motherf*cker Mode ENGAGED-
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Old 11-12-2010, 05:04 PM   #8
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Did a quick google search and came up with this... I'm sure there's a ton of info here. A bunch of links came up when i searched diy flow bench.

http://www.tractorsport.com/cgi-bin/.../ikonboard.cgi
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Old 11-14-2010, 09:38 AM   #9
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What is inportant is that the intake runners do not change in cross-sectional area throughout the entire length of the runner. This way the air can maintain a constant velocity. The runner should be slightly larger than the intake port, so that the air is accelerated through the port, resulting in better fuel mix.

I polished my intake runners to 600 grit where dry and 160 grit where wet (after the injectors). If you polish the runner too much where they are wet, you will see a symptom called fuel pooling, which is the fuel forming rivulets on the polished surface. Fuel pooling will make the engine idle very poorly.

160 grit seems to have a small problem with fuel pooling, but nothing next to 600 grit.

My engine will occasionally misfire at low fuel and air flow rates (idle, lightly loaded cruising), but the misfiring is infrequent and barely noticable.

If I were you, I would probably not go past 80 grit past the injectors if you want a good idle.

If you follow the rules of intake porting, there are major gains to be had from it.

EDIT: Here is a thread where this was discussed.
http://www.rotarycarclub.com/rotary_...ead.php?t=8550
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Old 11-14-2010, 11:21 AM   #10
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Thanks for the link I'll read it later tonight

What I have read so far about port matching is regarding piston engines. I'm sure it's the same idea but the lip created by variance between where two runners meet encourages the fuel to start coming out of suspension from the air. In other words the fuel starts sticking to walls of the runner at those points.

What I don't understand yet is how you determine which lips/contact surfaces need matched. Or for that matter how much they are off from each other. With piston engines they talk about simply using a marker through cylinder heads and such.

What I'm assuming I could do is use a light coat of paint or ink, simply bolt the parts together and then pull them apart. But that seems awfully prone to fucking it up. Seems like the amounts they will be off will me millimeters and any wiggle or smudging of the paint/ink will throw the whole measurement off.

I'll be doing engine work today between football games and I'll look over the parts. Hopefully having parts in hand I can figure out answers to my questions.
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Old 11-14-2010, 11:47 AM   #11
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Most people port match to the gaskets. Just sayin'
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Old 11-14-2010, 11:58 AM   #12
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Yep, use the stock gaskets.
It's the "easiest" method.
Just port both sides to match the gasket dimensions.


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Old 11-14-2010, 12:10 PM   #13
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That sounds awfully prone to simply making them wider but not matched much better than the factory did. I'd think having them widen and then constrict back down would equally help pull the fuel out of suspension just as much as an uneven lip. Like NoDOHC posted. Hhmmm but perhaps allow the air to flow "better".

I'll read what NoDOHC linked after lunch and some football.
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Old 11-15-2010, 03:35 AM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JustJeff View Post
That sounds awfully prone to simply making them wider but not matched much better than the factory did. I'd think having them widen and then constrict back down would equally help pull the fuel out of suspension just as much as an uneven lip. Like NoDOHC posted. Hhmmm but perhaps allow the air to flow "better".
I think, at this point, that you're over-thinking the whole thing.
The stock intake manifold system SUCKS.
Any mods to help flow will get you gains.


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because you're only as good as your backup
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Old 11-15-2010, 08:04 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RETed View Post
I think, at this point, that you're over-thinking the whole thing.
The stock intake manifold system SUCKS.
Any mods to help flow will get you gains.


-Ted
Definitely true about over thinking. In one of my threads I posted that I'm disturbingly perfectionist and I loose sleep over tiny details. Perfect example right here.
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