Redline Water Wetter is Safe for Round motors

[rx4ur7]

I read an informational thread and just had to answer this part:
I do take exception with:

Q: Can i lower my coolant temps with additives?
A: A few small studies have shown that Redline Water Wetter, and the like, are corrosive to coolant seals and are advised against. Redline being the worst. Its recommend to aviod their use and if you do, flush it out as soon as possible. (provided by TitaniumTT)

Do know know which scientific studies you have access to.
I have been using Redline Water Wetter since it was introduced back in the 80's.
Use it in all client vehicles, race vehicles (from IT stock motors to full Bridge GT motors), Generators, AC, with no problems that could be related in anyway to water wetter.

When it was first introduced it did not have the protection for aluminum, and they recommended that some, at least 5% glycol be used in motors that contained aluminum parts. The product has contained aluminum protection for well over 20 years.

Redline worked with Mazda to formulate chemical products that are safe to use in the Mazda rotary. Unfortunately they still could not come up with a synthetic that could be used in meter system vehicles.

I continue to use it and recommend that any vehicle that is exposed to or will be used in extreme conditions use it. Also recommend that the more extreme means to change oil and coolant more often.

I change the coolant in my clients vehicles every 3 years or 30K miles, max, as per Mazda service schedule.

My experience is that most coolant related failures were due to either tap water, lack of service, incorrect mixtures, repairs or odd ball chemicals introduced. These generally lead to inevitable overheating. A couple were related to "improved cooling" modifications incorrectly done to housings. Tap water failures were actual housing failure due to corrosion.

[TitaniumTT]

I was told by a good friend of mine that had issues with a client constanly blowing fire seals that he did a little test. He ordered a bunch of new seals and put them in, tap water, distilled water, glycol, dex-cool, and water wetter. The seals in water wetter turned stringy and basically disolved.

I had a similar experience with an engine a long time ago that was running hot. Added water wetter, temps went down a little until the seals finally failed. I atributed it to corrosion but after hearing about that little experiment I started spreading the word.

Certainly not the most scientific I agree but nonetheless, you can't really argue with the results. I may actually do this test myself with the next set of seals that I come across

[rx4ur7]

Just as I thought, there in could be the problem. If a motor is built properly and to Mazda specifications or has never had a heating issue, gotten hot and warped a housing, coolant should never get near the seals.

That is the way the motor was designed. In a perfect world we would not even need seals. Two surfaces machined to 0 tolerance would not require any gasket or seal.

Far too costly for mass production. So we have to deal with those few thousands.

As stated, I have never had a failure of a seal by swelling or disintigration even in the bridge motor where the seals are exposed to fuel and possible coolant.

I will try that test though, straight redline and also with the proper mix which is 4 oz redline to 1 gallon water.

Still if coolant is getting to the seals there is an issue not related to coolant.

Even so, we have used redline in motors that have just started to blow bubbles, FC's mostly, and got them to last a couple of seasons before having a complete seal failure. Most of those got hot a couple of times and there was no way to save them in the long run since they warped the housings. Seals were still fine except where they burnt out in the compustion area.