20b/13b-re mount plans for FC

Revelc · 06-09-2010, 01:25 AM

I'm looking to build some mounts for my 20b swap into my FC. I was curious if there were any publicly available plans that people have been using to do this before I go reinventing the wheel. I'd prefer not to buy them since I have access to some pretty decent fabrication tools.

Nismo · 06-09-2010, 01:51 AM

Take two Drivers side FC mounts, the steel ones, and weld them to a plate that can bolt to the engine, make sure the engine sits level on the subframe, and you are set. This is the easiest way I have come up with, and the way I will be doing mine.

jamespond24 · 06-09-2010, 10:04 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Nismo

Take two Drivers side FC mounts, the steel ones, and weld them to a plate that can bolt to the engine, make sure the engine sits level on the subframe, and you are set. This is the easiest way I have come up with, and the way I will be doing mine.

Interesting, you have pictures of the mount?

Revelc · 06-09-2010, 10:28 AM

That sounds a lot easier than what I was considering. Initially I had thought I would rig something like this http://www.rx7club.com/showthread.php?t=718388. I can machine the spacers and the Delrin, it would just be a matter of getting the mount geometry right without having the car here. (Car is in storage at a buddy's house about an hour away while the engine gets worked on)

Nismo · 06-09-2010, 11:24 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jamespond24

Interesting, you have pictures of the mount?

Like I said, it's not done yet, but this is how I am going to do it, the angles are already there, just have to make sure they sit at the same height, and weld some plate to the back to mount to engine.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Revelc

That sounds a lot easier than what I was considering. Initially I had thought I would rig something like this http://www.rx7club.com/showthread.php?t=718388. I can machine the spacers and the Delrin, it would just be a matter of getting the mount geometry right without having the car here. (Car is in storage at a buddy's house about an hour away while the engine gets worked on)

I was dicking around with ideas for a longggggg time, and this just came to me one day when I was sorting spare parts.

project86 · 06-09-2010, 12:45 PM

are you guys building your own so you can also avoid issues like the sway bar and oil pan? or is it soley because you have the resources to DIY

Nismo · 06-09-2010, 12:46 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by project86

are you guys building your own so you can also avoid issues like the sway bar and oil pan? or is it soley because you have the resources to DIY

I can so I will LOL. Never knew there were sway bar issues? Must be with the 20B only?

C. Ludwig · 06-09-2010, 12:49 PM

Banzai sells mounts for the 20B/RE. Defined Autoworks has made mounts they claim are triangulated better than the Banzai mounts but when I emailed them about availability I never received a reply.

project86 · 06-09-2010, 12:57 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Nismo

I can so I will LOL. Never knew there were sway bar issues? Must be with the 20B only?

Lol i dont blame you. Ya there are/or can be sway bar issues depending on the route you go. Ive been doing alot of research because i 20B is in my near future. Ive heard of ppl going as far as modifying the sway bar mounts.

Quote:

Originally Posted by C. Ludwig

Banzai sells mounts for the 20B/RE. Defined Autoworks has made mounts they claim are triangulated better than the Banzai mounts but when I emailed them about availability I never received a reply.

I sent them and email im guessin maybe 2 or 3 months ago and just got a reply a few weeks ago. they said there server was having issues.

Revelc · 06-09-2010, 01:19 PM

project86 is correct. The oil pan and stock front sway bar attempt to occupy the same space. I'm trying to DIY simply because I have access to the tools, and to shave $200 off the build price.

Since I'll be having a new bar bent (see, that's where the $200 will go lol) the only requirement for me is that the mounts be low enough to provide clearance for the IC piping to the stock twins. Some of the hood supports will probably end up being cut out as well.

project86 · 06-09-2010, 01:47 PM

my application will be na. i forgot about hood clearances... one thing you can do to avoid the sway bar/oilpan issue is use the RX8 tranny. It moves the engine back 3in. i believe,according to more research and info from TTT (correct me if im mistaken). also i think that would allow for more room in the front of the bay so you didnt have to remount the radiator and use electric fans.

Revelc · 06-09-2010, 02:07 PM

I've got a TII, so since the tranny is already bought and paid for I'd like to use that. Additionally, the stock TII radiator isn't enough to keep a 20b cool. You can pick up a koyo, build a shroud, and rob an e-fan from some crappy econobox for relatively cheap.

***TitaniumTT*** · 06-09-2010, 04:19 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Revelc

project86 is correct. The oil pan and stock front sway bar attempt to occupy the same space. I'm trying to DIY simply because I have access to the tools, and to shave $200 off the build price.

Since I'll be having a new bar bent (see, that's where the $200 will go lol) the only requirement for me is that the mounts be low enough to provide clearance for the IC piping to the stock twins. Some of the hood supports will probably end up being cut out as well.

Why fabricate an entirely new sway bar costing hundreds of dollars and probably go through two or three iterations before it's right when all you have to do is build a small spacer to drop the bar down slightly?

Quote:

Originally Posted by Revelc

I've got a TII, so since the tranny is already bought and paid for I'd like to use that. Additionally, the stock TII radiator isn't enough to keep a 20b cool. You can pick up a koyo, build a shroud, and rob an e-fan from some crappy econobox for relatively cheap.

That trans sucks, and if you're using the 20B twins, you're stuck using the factory ECU or running them non-sequential. Eitherway the ratios in the TII box blow canadian moose cock. If I were to do a 20B I would rock the RX8 box and move the bitch back 3.625".

Something else to think about would be a custom AL oil pan fab'ed from some 1/4" AL, would also serve to stiffen the block slightly.

Lastly, not to sound like a dick, but this sounds like a really low buck 20B build. Low buck 20B don't belong together.

project86 · 06-09-2010, 02:22 PM

oh right. i figured the stock rad wouldnt be good enough. i was assuming having to remount regardless. i think i wanna use efan anyway.

Revelc · 06-09-2010, 04:42 PM

DIY != low buck by any means, especially when you have more tools at your disposal than a dremel. Yes, the twins are already changed to non-sequential, and the TII drive train will be fine for the time being.

If you've got details on the spacer, by all means show me some pics or drawings and I'll fab one right up.

EDIT: All the new oil pan setups I've seen are for dry sumps, which is a far more expensive ordeal than a new sway bar. Again if you've got drawings/pics let me know and I'll be more than happy to make one. The purpose of this thread was to find out what plans were in the public arena before I went reinventing things.

06-09-2010, 01:25 AM	#1
Revelc 20b Tinkerer Join Date: Jun 2010 iTrader: (0) Posts: 15 Rep Power: 0	20b/13b-re mount plans for FC I'm looking to build some mounts for my 20b swap into my FC. I was curious if there were any publicly available plans that people have been using to do this before I go reinventing the wheel. I'd prefer not to buy them since I have access to some pretty decent fabrication tools.

06-09-2010, 01:51 AM	#2
Nismo 400WHP or bust Join Date: Mar 2008 Location: Kincardine, Ontario Canada iTrader: (1) Posts: 165 Rep Power: 17	Take two Drivers side FC mounts, the steel ones, and weld them to a plate that can bolt to the engine, make sure the engine sits level on the subframe, and you are set. This is the easiest way I have come up with, and the way I will be doing mine. __________________ 1986 GXL- Being built with a 13B RE... http://www.rotarycarclub.com/rotary_...ead.php?t=9602 1986 Base-RB Exhaust, HKS filter, Solid Aluminum motor mounts, S5 TII motor, ACT Clutch, HKS SSQV, Light Weight Flywheel, Haltech E6X, 720cc 2ndaries, Koni Yellows, Tein Springs Koyo Rad, 250 WHP 230 FTLBS Stock turbo, and stock IC at 10psi. RIP!! The daily bitch- 1995.5 Toyota Tacoma- Trueflow airfilter, and Bilstein HD shocks. 2009 Toyota Corolla "S" TRD Filter... 40MPG

06-09-2010, 12:45 PM	#6
project86 Can't.Make.Up.My.Mind. Join Date: May 2009 Location: Murfreesboro, TN iTrader: (3) Posts: 1,377 Rep Power: 17	are you guys building your own so you can also avoid issues like the sway bar and oil pan? or is it soley because you have the resources to DIY __________________ '90 GTUs Stay up to date with my photography '06 Toyota Highlander Hybrid '10 Toyota Prius "Initial Success or Total Failure"

06-09-2010, 12:49 PM	#8
C. Ludwig Rotary Masochist Join Date: May 2008 Location: Floyds Knobs, IN iTrader: (5) Posts: 494 Rep Power: 17	Banzai sells mounts for the 20B/RE. Defined Autoworks has made mounts they claim are triangulated better than the Banzai mounts but when I emailed them about availability I never received a reply. __________________ _______________________________________________ *One stop Haltech, AEM, Syvecs shopping. Installation and tuning.* http://www.lms-efi.com *Free support. Drop us an email.* chris@lms-efi.com 502-515-7482 Facebook @LMS-EFI

06-09-2010, 01:47 PM	#11
project86 Can't.Make.Up.My.Mind. Join Date: May 2009 Location: Murfreesboro, TN iTrader: (3) Posts: 1,377 Rep Power: 17	my application will be na. i forgot about hood clearances... one thing you can do to avoid the sway bar/oilpan issue is use the RX8 tranny. It moves the engine back 3in. i believe,according to more research and info from TTT (correct me if im mistaken). also i think that would allow for more room in the front of the bay so you didnt have to remount the radiator and use electric fans. __________________ '90 GTUs Stay up to date with my photography '06 Toyota Highlander Hybrid '10 Toyota Prius "Initial Success or Total Failure"

06-09-2010, 10:28 AM	#4
Revelc 20b Tinkerer Join Date: Jun 2010 iTrader: (0) Posts: 15 Rep Power: 0	That sounds a lot easier than what I was considering. Initially I had thought I would rig something like this http://www.rx7club.com/showthread.php?t=718388. I can machine the spacers and the Delrin, it would just be a matter of getting the mount geometry right without having the car here. (Car is in storage at a buddy's house about an hour away while the engine gets worked on)

06-09-2010, 01:19 PM	#10
Revelc 20b Tinkerer Join Date: Jun 2010 iTrader: (0) Posts: 15 Rep Power: 0	project86 is correct. The oil pan and stock front sway bar attempt to occupy the same space. I'm trying to DIY simply because I have access to the tools, and to shave $200 off the build price. Since I'll be having a new bar bent (see, that's where the $200 will go lol) the only requirement for me is that the mounts be low enough to provide clearance for the IC piping to the stock twins. Some of the hood supports will probably end up being cut out as well.

06-09-2010, 02:07 PM	#12
Revelc 20b Tinkerer Join Date: Jun 2010 iTrader: (0) Posts: 15 Rep Power: 0	I've got a TII, so since the tranny is already bought and paid for I'd like to use that. Additionally, the stock TII radiator isn't enough to keep a 20b cool. You can pick up a koyo, build a shroud, and rob an e-fan from some crappy econobox for relatively cheap.

06-09-2010, 02:22 PM	#14
project86 Can't.Make.Up.My.Mind. Join Date: May 2009 Location: Murfreesboro, TN iTrader: (3) Posts: 1,377 Rep Power: 17	oh right. i figured the stock rad wouldnt be good enough. i was assuming having to remount regardless. i think i wanna use efan anyway. __________________ '90 GTUs Stay up to date with my photography '06 Toyota Highlander Hybrid '10 Toyota Prius "Initial Success or Total Failure"

06-09-2010, 04:42 PM	#15
Revelc 20b Tinkerer Join Date: Jun 2010 iTrader: (0) Posts: 15 Rep Power: 0	DIY != low buck by any means, especially when you have more tools at your disposal than a dremel. Yes, the twins are already changed to non-sequential, and the TII drive train will be fine for the time being. If you've got details on the spacer, by all means show me some pics or drawings and I'll fab one right up. EDIT: All the new oil pan setups I've seen are for dry sumps, which is a far more expensive ordeal than a new sway bar. Again if you've got drawings/pics let me know and I'll be more than happy to make one. The purpose of this thread was to find out what plans were in the public arena before I went reinventing things. Last edited by Revelc; 06-09-2010 at 04:50 PM..