FC Lower arm bar

***TitaniumTT*** · 09-29-2010, 10:27 PM

Inspired by this thread and the evidence in hand in that thread I decided to build a lower arm bar. Dr. Overkill performed the procedure

Started out with two hiem joints, 8" of opposite threaded tube, two spare brackets, 3"x12" 1/8" steel, and some very hard to find 1x2 anodized aluminum tubing.

First I layed the brakets flat against some cardboard. I find beer boxes to be fantstic. Tracing the curve of the bracket down to the bottom. Cut that curve out and tape it to the bracket itself. Now, with the bracket level, place a level ontop of the bracket and trace a line against the cardboard. Put the hiem joint ontop of the carboard and make a judgement call as to where it should be. Don't forget about the 14 mm bolthead underneath. Transfer that cut out to steel and cut it out. I would repeat that process or at the very least, test it on ALL the brackets. Next clean everything up.

With the bracket bolted to your workbench bust out the magnetic level and stick the new pieces on the bottom of the level and line them up with the bracket. It's important to always have a true and level workbench. It makes things SOOOOO much easier. Put a few tacks on but only a few, we need to make sure its properly aligned.

After you are certain that it is true, a few tacks on the back and run a bead.

Becuase I thought it would be good on the back as well. Not really needed but I did it anyway. Cleaned up the beads on the front as well. Don't know why, they were purty.

***TitaniumTT*** · 09-29-2010, 10:29 PM

Drill a 3/4" hole and viola. What I generally do when I need to get throught two pieces of metal like that is drill a pilot hole, 1/8" or so through both and check for square and true, then go for the big 3/4" hole. Easy to adjust an 1/8", difficult to adjust a 3/4"

Starting with the 1x2x1/8" 6061 tubing and the opposite thread section of pipe. In reality all I really needed to do was order a length of threaded pipe the correct length (about 21") and been done with it. But then it wouldn't be original. Plus I'm building a front & rear strut bar out of the same material so now it all matches

A few measurements later and out came the jig saw. You'll see why in a minute.

I spent ALOT of time filing down the inside of the tube to more closely match the arc of the threaded tub. Almost 3/16" of an inch gap is just too much so it had to be filed down. Thinking ahead before you cut too is also key. I almost ruined that piece by getting a little excited.

***TitaniumTT*** · 09-29-2010, 10:29 PM

I spent ALOT of time filing down the inside of the tube to more closely match the arc of the threaded tub. Almost 3/16" of an inch gap is just too much so it had to be filed down. Thinking ahead before you cut too is also key. I almost ruined that piece by getting a little excited.

Everything aligned and clamped down on the bench. Again, sooooo nice to have a good bench. Level, true and you can weld right on it.

One great bead, one shitty bead.

After a lil more welding and some grinding - DONE! Time to instal.

Installed on the car. So nice and easy to get on. Swap the brakets and instal one hiem joint to the bracket snugly. Put the other in the rough spot where it needs to be and rotate the entire brace until it falls into line. Tighten both bolts down and give the bar a turn or too more to load it up and jam down the lock nuts. Pre-load is a good thing sometimes.

RotorDad · 09-30-2010, 04:46 AM

Another nice piece.

Garfinkles Motor Works · 10-03-2010, 11:54 PM

Another nice piece to say the least. What is next I will tune in soon . I need to learn how to put pictures on here because I have made a few parts as well . Keep it comming this is better than peanut butter .

vex · 10-04-2010, 06:12 AM

Wouldn't you get more rigidity out of a strictly welded bar... though if you're using aluminum it will deform.

Good how-to.

Turbo II Rotor · 10-08-2012, 11:12 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by vex

Wouldn't you get more rigidity out of a strictly welded bar... though if you're using aluminum it will deform.

Good how-to.

That's how I made mine. Copied Brians design for the weld on tabs for the control arm mounts and welded a bar straight between them.

Raksj04 · 10-08-2012, 01:55 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Turbo II Rotor

That's how I made mine. Copied Brians design for the weld on tabs for the control arm mounts and welded a bar straight between them.

Could you post more pics?

vex · 12-02-2010, 06:02 PM

Brian! Fix your pics!!

TheAbsence · 03-16-2011, 02:01 AM

^ Bump for rehosting the pictures somewhere

***TitaniumTT*** · 03-16-2011, 07:30 AM

Pics were originally on TeamFC3S.org and I don't have them on this machine.... I might be able to dig them up on the onld archiac Dell I have in the closet...

aaronoverholser · 03-21-2011, 01:37 PM

Where can I view pics of the piece you built?

***TitaniumTT*** · 03-21-2011, 04:47 PM

TeamFC3S.org which appears to be down. If I ever get the chance I'll dig the old comp up and pilfer the pictures from it and rehost them here. Can't make any promises on when it'll be though.

Thumper · 05-08-2011, 01:12 PM

TT is there any way you can fix the pics on this thread and the thread on your strut brace.

ModDimension · 05-08-2011, 02:16 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Thumper

TT is there any way you can fix the pics on this thread and the thread on your strut brace.

+1 I wanna see pics please

09-29-2010, 10:27 PM	#1
*TitaniumTT* Test Whore - Admin Join Date: Mar 2008 Location: Right Behind you son iTrader: (4) Posts: 4,581 Rep Power: 10	FC Lower arm bar Inspired by this thread and the evidence in hand in that thread I decided to build a lower arm bar. Dr. Overkill performed the procedure Started out with two hiem joints, 8" of opposite threaded tube, two spare brackets, 3"x12" 1/8" steel, and some very hard to find 1x2 anodized aluminum tubing. First I layed the brakets flat against some cardboard. I find beer boxes to be fantstic. Tracing the curve of the bracket down to the bottom. Cut that curve out and tape it to the bracket itself. Now, with the bracket level, place a level ontop of the bracket and trace a line against the cardboard. Put the hiem joint ontop of the carboard and make a judgement call as to where it should be. Don't forget about the 14 mm bolthead underneath. Transfer that cut out to steel and cut it out. I would repeat that process or at the very least, test it on ALL the brackets. Next clean everything up. With the bracket bolted to your workbench bust out the magnetic level and stick the new pieces on the bottom of the level and line them up with the bracket. It's important to always have a true and level workbench. It makes things SOOOOO much easier. Put a few tacks on but only a few, we need to make sure its properly aligned. After you are certain that it is true, a few tacks on the back and run a bead. Becuase I thought it would be good on the back as well. Not really needed but I did it anyway. Cleaned up the beads on the front as well. Don't know why, they were purty. __________________ -The Angry Stig- DGRR 2009, 2011, 2012 & 2013 - Best FC DEALS GAP!! WOOHOOOO!!!!! 2015 Audi S4 - Samantha - Zero Brap S4 2004 RX8 - Jocelyn - 196rwhp, 19mpg fuel to noise converter 2000 Jeep Cherokee Sport - Wifey mobile - Now with 2.5" OME lift and 30" BFG AT KO's! So it begins 1998 Jeep Cherokee - 5 spd, 4" lift, 33" BFG's - Rotary Tow Vehicle 1988 'Vert - In progress 1988 FC Coupe - Gretchen -The attention whore BEAST! I'm a sick individual, what's wrong with you? I'm pure Evil I'm still insane, in the best possible way. I think Brian's idea of romance is using lube. Your rage caused the meteor strike in Russia. The Antichrist would be proud of his minion. You win with your thread. Most everything It's a truck with a steel gate on the back. Just a statement of fact Motec M820, AIM dash, ported 13B-RE Cosmo, 6-spd trans, 4.3 Torsen, custom twin wg fully divided mani, Custom 4" split into 2x 3" exhaust, Custom HMIC, Custom custom custom custom I like to welder stuff.... No Bolt-ons allowed. Dyno'ed @ Speed1 Tuned by me - 405rwhp on WG.... WM50 cuming soon. *-Angry Motherfcker Mode ENGAGED-**

09-29-2010, 10:29 PM	#2
*TitaniumTT* Test Whore - Admin Join Date: Mar 2008 Location: Right Behind you son iTrader: (4) Posts: 4,581 Rep Power: 10	Drill a 3/4" hole and viola. What I generally do when I need to get throught two pieces of metal like that is drill a pilot hole, 1/8" or so through both and check for square and true, then go for the big 3/4" hole. Easy to adjust an 1/8", difficult to adjust a 3/4" Starting with the 1x2x1/8" 6061 tubing and the opposite thread section of pipe. In reality all I really needed to do was order a length of threaded pipe the correct length (about 21") and been done with it. But then it wouldn't be original. Plus I'm building a front & rear strut bar out of the same material so now it all matches A few measurements later and out came the jig saw. You'll see why in a minute. I spent ALOT of time filing down the inside of the tube to more closely match the arc of the threaded tub. Almost 3/16" of an inch gap is just too much so it had to be filed down. Thinking ahead before you cut too is also key. I almost ruined that piece by getting a little excited. __________________ -The Angry Stig- DGRR 2009, 2011, 2012 & 2013 - Best FC DEALS GAP!! WOOHOOOO!!!!! 2015 Audi S4 - Samantha - Zero Brap S4 2004 RX8 - Jocelyn - 196rwhp, 19mpg fuel to noise converter 2000 Jeep Cherokee Sport - Wifey mobile - Now with 2.5" OME lift and 30" BFG AT KO's! So it begins 1998 Jeep Cherokee - 5 spd, 4" lift, 33" BFG's - Rotary Tow Vehicle 1988 'Vert - In progress 1988 FC Coupe - Gretchen -The attention whore BEAST! I'm a sick individual, what's wrong with you? I'm pure Evil I'm still insane, in the best possible way. I think Brian's idea of romance is using lube. Your rage caused the meteor strike in Russia. The Antichrist would be proud of his minion. You win with your thread. Most everything It's a truck with a steel gate on the back. Just a statement of fact Motec M820, AIM dash, ported 13B-RE Cosmo, 6-spd trans, 4.3 Torsen, custom twin wg fully divided mani, Custom 4" split into 2x 3" exhaust, Custom HMIC, Custom custom custom custom I like to welder stuff.... No Bolt-ons allowed. Dyno'ed @ Speed1 Tuned by me - 405rwhp on WG.... WM50 cuming soon. *-Angry Motherfcker Mode ENGAGED-**

09-29-2010, 10:29 PM	#3
*TitaniumTT* Test Whore - Admin Join Date: Mar 2008 Location: Right Behind you son iTrader: (4) Posts: 4,581 Rep Power: 10	I spent ALOT of time filing down the inside of the tube to more closely match the arc of the threaded tub. Almost 3/16" of an inch gap is just too much so it had to be filed down. Thinking ahead before you cut too is also key. I almost ruined that piece by getting a little excited. Everything aligned and clamped down on the bench. Again, sooooo nice to have a good bench. Level, true and you can weld right on it. One great bead, one shitty bead. After a lil more welding and some grinding - DONE! Time to instal. Installed on the car. So nice and easy to get on. Swap the brakets and instal one hiem joint to the bracket snugly. Put the other in the rough spot where it needs to be and rotate the entire brace until it falls into line. Tighten both bolts down and give the bar a turn or too more to load it up and jam down the lock nuts. Pre-load is a good thing sometimes. __________________ -The Angry Stig- DGRR 2009, 2011, 2012 & 2013 - Best FC DEALS GAP!! WOOHOOOO!!!!! 2015 Audi S4 - Samantha - Zero Brap S4 2004 RX8 - Jocelyn - 196rwhp, 19mpg fuel to noise converter 2000 Jeep Cherokee Sport - Wifey mobile - Now with 2.5" OME lift and 30" BFG AT KO's! So it begins 1998 Jeep Cherokee - 5 spd, 4" lift, 33" BFG's - Rotary Tow Vehicle 1988 'Vert - In progress 1988 FC Coupe - Gretchen -The attention whore BEAST! I'm a sick individual, what's wrong with you? I'm pure Evil I'm still insane, in the best possible way. I think Brian's idea of romance is using lube. Your rage caused the meteor strike in Russia. The Antichrist would be proud of his minion. You win with your thread. Most everything It's a truck with a steel gate on the back. Just a statement of fact Motec M820, AIM dash, ported 13B-RE Cosmo, 6-spd trans, 4.3 Torsen, custom twin wg fully divided mani, Custom 4" split into 2x 3" exhaust, Custom HMIC, Custom custom custom custom I like to welder stuff.... No Bolt-ons allowed. Dyno'ed @ Speed1 Tuned by me - 405rwhp on WG.... WM50 cuming soon. *-Angry Motherfcker Mode ENGAGED-**

09-30-2010, 04:46 AM	#4
RotorDad Big Ugly Join Date: Apr 2009 Location: Fredericksburg, Va iTrader: (1) Posts: 591 Rep Power: 16	Another nice piece. __________________ *Boosted Big Body On 335's* PS3 ID: Rotordad 1986 Mazda RX7 GXL - Street ported 13BT, Haltech, 62mm, ect. 2006 MazdaSpeed 6 - Eagle, Wiseco, Cobb, ect.

10-04-2010, 06:12 AM	#6
vex RCC Loves Me Not You Join Date: Jul 2008 Location: Influx. iTrader: (6) Posts: 2,113 Rep Power: 19	Wouldn't you get more rigidity out of a strictly welded bar... though if you're using aluminum it will deform. Good how-to. __________________ The Official FC Radiator Thread My Project Thread: Cerberus CCVT Virginia Rotary Group

10-03-2010, 11:54 PM	#5
Garfinkles Motor Works RCC Contributor Join Date: Mar 2008 iTrader: (11) Posts: 535 Rep Power: 17	Another nice piece to say the least. What is next I will tune in soon . I need to learn how to put pictures on here because I have made a few parts as well . Keep it comming this is better than peanut butter .

12-02-2010, 06:02 PM	#9
vex RCC Loves Me Not You Join Date: Jul 2008 Location: Influx. iTrader: (6) Posts: 2,113 Rep Power: 19	Brian! Fix your pics!! __________________ The Official FC Radiator Thread My Project Thread: Cerberus CCVT Virginia Rotary Group

03-16-2011, 02:01 AM	#10
TheAbsence The Newbie Join Date: Jul 2010 iTrader: (0) Posts: 14 Rep Power: 0	^ Bump for rehosting the pictures somewhere

03-16-2011, 07:30 AM	#11
*TitaniumTT* Test Whore - Admin Join Date: Mar 2008 Location: Right Behind you son iTrader: (4) Posts: 4,581 Rep Power: 10	Pics were originally on TeamFC3S.org and I don't have them on this machine.... I might be able to dig them up on the onld archiac Dell I have in the closet... __________________ -The Angry Stig- DGRR 2009, 2011, 2012 & 2013 - Best FC DEALS GAP!! WOOHOOOO!!!!! 2015 Audi S4 - Samantha - Zero Brap S4 2004 RX8 - Jocelyn - 196rwhp, 19mpg fuel to noise converter 2000 Jeep Cherokee Sport - Wifey mobile - Now with 2.5" OME lift and 30" BFG AT KO's! So it begins 1998 Jeep Cherokee - 5 spd, 4" lift, 33" BFG's - Rotary Tow Vehicle 1988 'Vert - In progress 1988 FC Coupe - Gretchen -The attention whore BEAST! I'm a sick individual, what's wrong with you? I'm pure Evil I'm still insane, in the best possible way. I think Brian's idea of romance is using lube. Your rage caused the meteor strike in Russia. The Antichrist would be proud of his minion. You win with your thread. Most everything It's a truck with a steel gate on the back. Just a statement of fact Motec M820, AIM dash, ported 13B-RE Cosmo, 6-spd trans, 4.3 Torsen, custom twin wg fully divided mani, Custom 4" split into 2x 3" exhaust, Custom HMIC, Custom custom custom custom I like to welder stuff.... No Bolt-ons allowed. Dyno'ed @ Speed1 Tuned by me - 405rwhp on WG.... WM50 cuming soon. *-Angry Motherfcker Mode ENGAGED-**

03-21-2011, 01:37 PM	#12
aaronoverholser In search of knowledge. Join Date: Mar 2011 Location: Greenville Ohio iTrader: (0) Posts: 14 Rep Power: 0	Where can I view pics of the piece you built? __________________ Zoom Zoom- The only car on the road that is truly something different... the RX7!

03-21-2011, 04:47 PM	#13
*TitaniumTT* Test Whore - Admin Join Date: Mar 2008 Location: Right Behind you son iTrader: (4) Posts: 4,581 Rep Power: 10	TeamFC3S.org which appears to be down. If I ever get the chance I'll dig the old comp up and pilfer the pictures from it and rehost them here. Can't make any promises on when it'll be though. __________________ -The Angry Stig- DGRR 2009, 2011, 2012 & 2013 - Best FC DEALS GAP!! WOOHOOOO!!!!! 2015 Audi S4 - Samantha - Zero Brap S4 2004 RX8 - Jocelyn - 196rwhp, 19mpg fuel to noise converter 2000 Jeep Cherokee Sport - Wifey mobile - Now with 2.5" OME lift and 30" BFG AT KO's! So it begins 1998 Jeep Cherokee - 5 spd, 4" lift, 33" BFG's - Rotary Tow Vehicle 1988 'Vert - In progress 1988 FC Coupe - Gretchen -The attention whore BEAST! I'm a sick individual, what's wrong with you? I'm pure Evil I'm still insane, in the best possible way. I think Brian's idea of romance is using lube. Your rage caused the meteor strike in Russia. The Antichrist would be proud of his minion. You win with your thread. Most everything It's a truck with a steel gate on the back. Just a statement of fact Motec M820, AIM dash, ported 13B-RE Cosmo, 6-spd trans, 4.3 Torsen, custom twin wg fully divided mani, Custom 4" split into 2x 3" exhaust, Custom HMIC, Custom custom custom custom I like to welder stuff.... No Bolt-ons allowed. Dyno'ed @ Speed1 Tuned by me - 405rwhp on WG.... WM50 cuming soon. *-Angry Motherfcker Mode ENGAGED-**

05-08-2011, 01:12 PM	#14
Thumper Backyard Mechanic Join Date: Dec 2010 iTrader: (0) Posts: 50 Rep Power: 14	TT is there any way you can fix the pics on this thread and the thread on your strut brace.