Strange stock intake. Help ID

Twilightoptics · 09-05-2009, 01:19 AM

So I got this intake with another nikki carb from P71 a while ago.

I thought I'd dig it out and see if I could make something out of it.

It appears to have no provision for a shutter valve, and has 3 ports off the side the shutter valve would be on.

Would this be an upgrade from my stock '82 intake if I made a spacer to eliminate the port plate under my carb? Flow Characteristics?

I could run my manifold vacuum sources off the ports in this intake. I was thinking of welding the coolant passages shut to make it kind of a pseudo Racing Beat intake. I understand I need O-Rings if I do this?

Any ideas what this came off of?!

Twilightoptics · 09-05-2009, 12:15 PM

More research shows it could be a '79-80 intake. To make it work I need to weld material to the bottom to cover up the exhaust port that feeds the ACV on the '81-'85 12A motors. Easy enough.

It's got a small plenum between both primaries and secondaries instead of the shutter valve style with only one.

Anyone know how much hood clearance there is between a factory aircleaner? I could make a taller spacer to increase velocity!

PercentSevenC · 09-05-2009, 01:43 PM

'76-80. I'm sure Jeff20B could tell you more specifically.

Jeff20B · 09-07-2009, 04:29 PM

'79-'80 manifold. Yes add a piece of aluminum to block the ACV port on your engine. Also add a piece of rubber hose to the nipple on your broken PCV valve and slip a Fram FV266 into it. Then run a piece of 5/16" hose over to the nipple on your oil filler tube in the intermediate plate. Be sure to use zip ties or hose clamps. Or maybe you can come up with another solution.

I added an FV266 on mine and it worked perfectly. It passes the right amount of air to be well within the idle mixture screw limits of several stock carbs I tried.

Twilightoptics · 09-07-2009, 06:39 PM

I deleted my rats nest. Parts guy are work found me an inline PCV from a Caravan I have it plumbed into the nipple spacer plate then afterward it's Tee-d to the Carb vent and the oil fill tube. Should work the same too right?

On this '79-80 intake, which nipple are you recommending to use for PCV? The center one with the Hex?

I plan to cut out the ACV stuff and really simplify the intake also.

Did you notice any gains putting this intake on vs the later style?

Thanks! :O)

Jeff20B · 09-08-2009, 02:19 AM

Hmm, how can I explain this. You have a later engine, but the earlier ones had a threaded heater core fitting in the rear plate below the oil filter pedestal with a hex and nipple the same size and shape as the PCV valve on your manifold. Same thread pitch too. Yours is missing the plastic cap which allows a 5/16" hose to slip onto it. My cap was broken so I pulled it off, found a piece of heater core hose that fit perfectly on the nipple, and it just so happened to fit snugly on the hex part of an FV266. I decided to use a couple of zip ties around the hose on the hex part because they're cheaper than hose clamps and I have a nice zip tie tool to snug them up really well. I didn't want any air leaks. I also added one clamp on the nipple part of the PCV fitting just to keep it on there better. Note: I could have used a threaded heater core fitting if I needed to.

I've heard of using a caravan PCV valve, but I've found the FV266 to be perfect for carbs ranging from stock up to a 600 Holley (adapted to a stock separate runner intake manifold with an adapter plate). I've also been able to use FV333 on Edelbrock carbs on Camden superchargers. I just installed one on Saturday.

Nikki carbs do have a carb bowl vent that needs to be hooked up, so I assume your setup will work ok as you described it.

On my '79-'80 manifold, I didn't even bother with an ACV cover plate. I added an NPT pipe plug to the big hole and a screw to the small hole. Easy and free.

I haven't tried this manifold yet. I'm sure it will flow better than an FB manifold just comparing the differences. Visually it simply looks better.

rx7carl · 09-10-2009, 11:34 PM

Yea looks like a 79-80. You can block off the egr port with a piece of angle aluminum bolted to the bottom of the manifold. Those are the best flowing manifolds of the 1st gen series.

Kentetsu · 09-11-2009, 11:44 AM

Nice find man. Take lots of pics of the installation process, or you will be banned for life!

.

Twilightoptics · 09-15-2009, 08:28 PM

Alright Alright! :O)

Here's where I'm at so far. I have better pictures on my digital camera, but forgot it at work. These are just with my phone.

Added meat and surfaced. Plugged many holes. Ported the secondaries. There were large bumps from the port holes. I went through on one a little bit into the ACV port on the secondaries. I don't know that I can get the tig in there to fill it up. I'll either have to drill through and then fill from the outside or use some epoxy.

I bet I've got about 6-8 hours in it. I left the PCV and the other manifold vacuum port incase I sell it someday and someone needs those. I took off the exhaust manifold head shield mounts. So I wont be installing this until I put a header on. Soon as funds come in, I'll be getting the RB Road Race Header dissassembled. I'll weld it and run it with a stainless 2.5" back to a Borla. Should be loud! LOL Just a stock muffler now with no cats.

Intake and Exhaust should net some good gains!

Jeff20B · 09-16-2009, 01:37 PM

Good job!

Twilightoptics · 09-16-2009, 08:20 PM

Fixed the little hole today. Went this far, figured epoxy is seriously half assing it. So I milled from the outside to get to the secondary port and the ACV port. Welded the two of them up real good, smoothed out the outside again and ported the hump in the secondary tract. All good!

I have to say this intake is some nice metal. I'm used to welding on transmission cases alot and this was a daydream. I will say it's pretty porous. It's like they used good aluminum but had somekind of flaw in their casting process.

alexyjay · 09-22-2009, 08:56 PM

nice find, but don't you think that's a lot work for an old intake. just save your pennys and buy your self a racing beat intake.
your car will thank.

alexyjay · 09-23-2009, 07:30 PM

looks good..............

Twilightoptics · 09-23-2009, 11:10 PM

Certainly is alot of work and I'd never recommend it to someone who doesn't have the ability to weld and fab.

I don't have money, I have time. So I make the most of it :O)

Max777 · 09-24-2009, 09:34 PM

yeah, I saw a 13b-RE intake that looked like shit, but the guy cut off a lot of aluminum and made it look slim as hell. He completely cut off the areas where the ACV valve and stuff went, cut open the upper plenum and ported the inside before welding it back up again, lots of stuff! It looked real nice when he was done...

09-10-2009, 11:34 PM	#7
rx7carl Rotary Fan in Training Join Date: Mar 2008 Location: Orlando, Fl iTrader: (0) Posts: 59 Rep Power: 17	Yea looks like a 79-80. You can block off the egr port with a piece of angle aluminum bolted to the bottom of the manifold. Those are the best flowing manifolds of the 1st gen series. __________________ www.pbandjracing.com

09-11-2009, 11:44 AM	#8
Kentetsu RCC Contributor Join Date: Feb 2008 Location: Grand Rapids, Michigan iTrader: (1) Posts: 530 Rep Power: 17	Nice find man. Take lots of pics of the installation process, or you will be banned for life! . __________________ "Learn from the past, or it will become your future...." '85 GS 12a + LSD/Sterling carb/Respeed coilovers/Respeed front swaybar/Respeed adj. rear spring perches/Illuminas/Bilsteins on rear AutoX vids @ http://www.youtube.com/user/Kentetsu1

09-24-2009, 09:34 PM	#15
Max777 Pirate Join Date: Mar 2008 Location: Central IL iTrader: (5) Posts: 1,323 Rep Power: 18	yeah, I saw a 13b-RE intake that looked like shit, but the guy cut off a lot of aluminum and made it look slim as hell. He completely cut off the areas where the ACV valve and stuff went, cut open the upper plenum and ported the inside before welding it back up again, lots of stuff! It looked real nice when he was done... __________________ Rotaries:They are NOT that complicated!

Thread Tools
Show Printable Version Email this Page
Display Modes
Switch to Linear Mode Hybrid Mode Switch to Threaded Mode

09-05-2009, 12:15 PM	#2
Twilightoptics Itchin' to Turbo Join Date: Apr 2009 Location: Vancouver, WA iTrader: (0) Posts: 33 Rep Power: 0	More research shows it could be a '79-80 intake. To make it work I need to weld material to the bottom to cover up the exhaust port that feeds the ACV on the '81-'85 12A motors. Easy enough. It's got a small plenum between both primaries and secondaries instead of the shutter valve style with only one. Anyone know how much hood clearance there is between a factory aircleaner? I could make a taller spacer to increase velocity!

09-07-2009, 04:29 PM	#4
Jeff20B Rotary Fanatic Join Date: Mar 2008 iTrader: (1) Posts: 215 Rep Power: 17	'79-'80 manifold. Yes add a piece of aluminum to block the ACV port on your engine. Also add a piece of rubber hose to the nipple on your broken PCV valve and slip a Fram FV266 into it. Then run a piece of 5/16" hose over to the nipple on your oil filler tube in the intermediate plate. Be sure to use zip ties or hose clamps. Or maybe you can come up with another solution. I added an FV266 on mine and it worked perfectly. It passes the right amount of air to be well within the idle mixture screw limits of several stock carbs I tried.

09-07-2009, 06:39 PM	#5
Twilightoptics Itchin' to Turbo Join Date: Apr 2009 Location: Vancouver, WA iTrader: (0) Posts: 33 Rep Power: 0	I deleted my rats nest. Parts guy are work found me an inline PCV from a Caravan I have it plumbed into the nipple spacer plate then afterward it's Tee-d to the Carb vent and the oil fill tube. Should work the same too right? On this '79-80 intake, which nipple are you recommending to use for PCV? The center one with the Hex? I plan to cut out the ACV stuff and really simplify the intake also. Did you notice any gains putting this intake on vs the later style? Thanks! :O)

09-08-2009, 02:19 AM	#6
Jeff20B Rotary Fanatic Join Date: Mar 2008 iTrader: (1) Posts: 215 Rep Power: 17	Hmm, how can I explain this. You have a later engine, but the earlier ones had a threaded heater core fitting in the rear plate below the oil filter pedestal with a hex and nipple the same size and shape as the PCV valve on your manifold. Same thread pitch too. Yours is missing the plastic cap which allows a 5/16" hose to slip onto it. My cap was broken so I pulled it off, found a piece of heater core hose that fit perfectly on the nipple, and it just so happened to fit snugly on the hex part of an FV266. I decided to use a couple of zip ties around the hose on the hex part because they're cheaper than hose clamps and I have a nice zip tie tool to snug them up really well. I didn't want any air leaks. I also added one clamp on the nipple part of the PCV fitting just to keep it on there better. Note: I could have used a threaded heater core fitting if I needed to. I've heard of using a caravan PCV valve, but I've found the FV266 to be perfect for carbs ranging from stock up to a 600 Holley (adapted to a stock separate runner intake manifold with an adapter plate). I've also been able to use FV333 on Edelbrock carbs on Camden superchargers. I just installed one on Saturday. Nikki carbs do have a carb bowl vent that needs to be hooked up, so I assume your setup will work ok as you described it. On my '79-'80 manifold, I didn't even bother with an ACV cover plate. I added an NPT pipe plug to the big hole and a screw to the small hole. Easy and free. I haven't tried this manifold yet. I'm sure it will flow better than an FB manifold just comparing the differences. Visually it simply looks better.

09-16-2009, 01:37 PM	#10
Jeff20B Rotary Fanatic Join Date: Mar 2008 iTrader: (1) Posts: 215 Rep Power: 17	Good job!

09-16-2009, 08:20 PM	#11
Twilightoptics Itchin' to Turbo Join Date: Apr 2009 Location: Vancouver, WA iTrader: (0) Posts: 33 Rep Power: 0	Fixed the little hole today. Went this far, figured epoxy is seriously half assing it. So I milled from the outside to get to the secondary port and the ACV port. Welded the two of them up real good, smoothed out the outside again and ported the hump in the secondary tract. All good! I have to say this intake is some nice metal. I'm used to welding on transmission cases alot and this was a daydream. I will say it's pretty porous. It's like they used good aluminum but had somekind of flaw in their casting process.

09-22-2009, 08:56 PM	#12
alexyjay The Newbie Join Date: Jul 2009 iTrader: (0) Posts: 20 Rep Power: 0	nice find, but don't you think that's a lot work for an old intake. just save your pennys and buy your self a racing beat intake. your car will thank.

09-23-2009, 07:30 PM	#13
alexyjay The Newbie Join Date: Jul 2009 iTrader: (0) Posts: 20 Rep Power: 0	looks good..............

09-23-2009, 11:10 PM	#14
Twilightoptics Itchin' to Turbo Join Date: Apr 2009 Location: Vancouver, WA iTrader: (0) Posts: 33 Rep Power: 0	Certainly is alot of work and I'd never recommend it to someone who doesn't have the ability to weld and fab. I don't have money, I have time. So I make the most of it :O)