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Old 07-27-2009, 08:11 PM   #1
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Default E85, stock turbo II

first i'll give some info, and my question is at the bottom...

heres some things debunking all the myths about e85...

did some research about the "myths" and the cons of e85... some good news came up... so as it turns out, e85will not in no way harm anything.

Im going to copy paste the ones that are relevant. i did not write these...


1. E85 Ethanol is corrosive?

Yes ethanol is corrosive, but not very much. Gasoline is corrosive too. Ethanol is biodegradable in water. So it has a tendency to contain and attract water. It is not the corrosive properties of ethanol that can cause damage to your vehicle; it is the water which can rust a vehicle’s fuel system from the inside out. Today’s vehicles (since mid 1980s) have fuel systems which are made to withstand corrosive motor fuels and rust from water. Also today’s distilling processes are superior to way back when. We now have better techniques for drying out ethanol or reducing the water content.

On side note, gas contains water too. Ever hear of dry gas?


2. If I put E85 in my gas tank, it will eat it away?

If your car was built in the old days, it was had a lead coated, steel tank. The water in ethanol would cause the tank to rust from the inside out. The government mandated that all gas in the USA contain 10% ethanol to help reduce tail pipe emissions. In the 1980s, automakers made vehicles with fuel systems to be ethanol and rust tolerant. Gas tanks began to contain polymers and Teflon which are extremely durable.

4. Ethanol will burn up my engine?

Ethanol has a lower ignition point than gas. Ethanol has about 115 octane and E85 has 105 octane. It burns cooler and will extend engine life by preventing the burning of engine valves and prevent the build-up of olefins in fuel injectors, keeping the fuel system cleaner.

5. Ethanol will ruin gaskets, seals, rings and more?

Running 100% ethanol or alcohol in an engine can cause damage to cork products.

The rubber neoprene used in the last 20 + years is resistant to the drying effect that ethanol may have.

Today's vehicles are built to withstand the corrosive effects of water in ethanol and gasoline. Any vehicle built since 1985 will have no ethanol related issues. Older vehicles that used more steel in the fuel systems or cork gaskets may have issues from long term exposure to water.

Vehicles in Brazil have been using ethanol for 30 years and they are completely free from using any foreign oil.

6. E85 will eat my rubber fuel lines?

This is another myth from the old days. Rubber technology has significantly advanced so the concerns of a 20 year old car or newer having issues like this are extremely rare. Plus the 15% gas will help keep lines lubricated.

7. E85 will destroy my fuel pump?

E85 won’t destroy your fuel pump. If you convert a high mileage vehicle to Flex Fuel, the E85 will cause the sediment in the gas tank to dissolve and then get sucked up by the fuel pump. It is believed that this sediment may shorten the life of the pump of your higher mileage vehicle (100,000+). We have had no reports from customers with damaged fuel pumps.

so basically, unless your driving something older than 1985. you'll be just fine... sorry 1st gen guys...

being a little cheap here... and i really want to know if i can just upgrade my injectors and run it just fine...



question:

On my basically stock turbo II, im looking to run e85. the way i see it is, if you need 30% more e85, then you could essentially just upgrade the injectors 30% larger and leave it all stock with no tuning. so, my TII has 550's all around.

30% of 550 is 165.

550+165= 715.

so i could just upgrage to 750s all around and be just fine? I already upgraded to a walbro 255 pump with -6 lines from an aluminum fuel cell. and an edelbrock filter that is a metal screen instead of paper filter. so no worrys about water being trapped in the filter...


any ideas here from someone whos experienced in this?






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Old 07-27-2009, 08:52 PM   #2
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Don't believe the hype - it's a sequel...

Ethanol's BTU content is lower than gasoline.
This is why you need MORE ethanol versus the same amount of gasoline to make the same power.
Ethanol tends to settle out with any mixture with gasoline.
This is not a problem when you don't let it sit around, like for more daily drivers.
It's a BIG problem when you don't drive your vehicle every day - I know some of us don't.
Go talk to boat owners about this - they will tell you the real deal.

The U.S. federal government (and others) have been hyping the use of ethanol to get away from dependence on fossil fuels, but there are drawbacks...
Farmers have converted their farm lands to raise crops to make ethanol - usually corn.
These crops require higher use of fertilizers and chemicals - runoff's are increased.
Did you notice the increase of grocery items?
Especially anything based on WHEAT?
Bakery items such as bread?
Wheat farm lands have been converted to crops for ethanol, so wheat production has dropped.
Lower supply...higher prices.
The price for wheat and wheat products have basically doubled before all this ethanol crap.
So stuff like bread prices went up cause of the wheat flour prices going up.

Lesse...use ethanol which has lower BTU content...less miles per tank of gas...wheat prices go up...environment gets screwed...

Wow, that sound so much more superior...

...not.

I got no problem with you asking about E85 tuning.
I have a problem when you spew propaganda which do not tell you the whole truth.


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Old 07-28-2009, 12:48 AM   #3
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ok, i left out all the enviorment/farming related parts because thats not what im asking. i read all about it, and thats why i cut it out of the copy pasted items. I could combat some of what you said. but thats not what im trying to do. aslo, dont forget bio-diesel and others are also causing the rise in food costs.



now, what im trying to figure out, is if i can just upgrade to 4x750's instead of the 550's (thats slightly over 30% increase) without any tuning...
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Old 07-28-2009, 08:49 AM   #4
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now, what im trying to figure out, is if i can just upgrade to 4x750's instead of the 550's (thats slightly over 30% increase) without any tuning...
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Old 07-28-2009, 03:15 PM   #5
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yeah, thanks for the help. this was informative...



felx fuel cars do not run different MAPs everytime they switch from regular gas to e85. but the cars are tued to run better on gas, but drive just fine on e85. kinda like a happy medium, but more tuned towards gasoline.

its no different for any car. if you set the fuel increase right (atleast from what ive seen) you should be able to run it without any tuning. just seeing if maybe someone out there has done it yet. tips from EXPERIENCED people is what i look for. not people posting cause there bored such as yourself.
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Old 07-28-2009, 04:54 PM   #6
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Originally Posted by sen2two View Post
felx fuel cars do not run different MAPs everytime they switch from regular gas to e85.
Yes they do. In fact the ecu has two distinctly different sets of fuel tables for base and correction (including fuel temperature) that it blends between based upon the ethanol content of the fuel in the lines. Ethanol is not a straight conversion like you are making it out to be. Ethanol has many different properties than gasoline that are addressed by the modern flex fuel ECU's.

Like I said on the "other" board you could swap in the 720's and for the most part in the summer it should work just fine, but your millage will most likely suck, and if you drive it in the winter good luck getting it started. On the positive note you could probably run that stock turbo right through the hood and not have to worry about the engine dieing from pre-ignition, compressor wheel shrapnel maybe, but not pre-ignition.

Ryan
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Old 08-10-2009, 04:27 AM   #7
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Yes they do. In fact the ecu has two distinctly different sets of fuel tables for base and correction (including fuel temperature) that it blends between based upon the ethanol content of the fuel in the lines. Ethanol is not a straight conversion like you are making it out to be. Ethanol has many different properties than gasoline that are addressed by the modern flex fuel ECU's.

Like I said on the "other" board you could swap in the 720's and for the most part in the summer it should work just fine, but your millage will most likely suck, and if you drive it in the winter good luck getting it started. On the positive note you could probably run that stock turbo right through the hood and not have to worry about the engine dieing from pre-ignition, compressor wheel shrapnel maybe, but not pre-ignition.

Ryan
Lol, yeah. 18 psi, 74 degrees BTDC, zero pre-ignition.... if it'll start.

If you do this, just borrow a wideband and keep a close eye on your AFR's. Remember the stock ECU loves to run pig rich so you may end up having to pull fuel around the torque peak if it gets chunky on the dyno.

This sounds like a fun experiment, let me know how it goes.
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Old 08-21-2009, 02:26 PM   #8
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The point of his post was to make fun of you for even considering doing something like this with zero tuning. IE, you sir are crazy .
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Old 08-31-2009, 12:16 AM   #9
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Originally Posted by Flooder View Post
The point of his post was to make fun of you for even considering doing something like this with zero tuning. IE, you sir are crazy .
I think you're half right. I don't think he thought he was crazy.........

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Ethanol tends to settle out with any mixture with gasoline.
This is not a problem when you don't let it sit around, like for more daily drivers.
It's a BIG problem when you don't drive your vehicle every day - I know some of us don't.
Go talk to boat owners about this - they will tell you the real deal.

-Ted
Ethanol is the worst thing that has happened to fuel since it was first created. Here are a few stories

I bought my boat about 5 or 6 years ago from a mechanic. The boat ran GREAT it's entire life until the very first tank of ethanol went into it. She ran for 15 minutes before the filter was clogged along with all 3 2-barrel carbs. I got the boat cheap, drained the tank, all 35 gallons of it and watched CHUCKS of schmeg fall out, new water seperating fuel filter, rebuilt the pump and all the carbs. Fresh tank of gas and the boat ran for 20 minutes before it wouldn't idle at all. Looked at the filter and drained out shit the consistancey of syrup. Drained the tank again, watched chunks of schmeg fall out. Pulled the tank from the boat and dropped a length of 3/8 chain in the tank, sloshed it around, put a few gallons in, syphoned it out and repeated for HOURS untill everything was out. No problems since.

I know countless people that have had to have their decks removed and thier tanks replaced becuase they couldn't be cleaned or becuase they were fiberglass. Virtually every gas powered Bertram on the water has or will have fuel issues.

Fiberglass tanks are literally MELTING and entire fuel systems, carbs, and sometimes engines need replacement.

I just had a 25 year old boston whaler that wasn't running, snaked the line and something the consistancy of a fishing worm 3/8" diameter and about 1" long came out. Pulled the filter and found the same shit in every opening of the filter and coating the base. When I left it out to show the owner, it shrunk in size by about 90% overnight. Still the same consistancy though and very stretchy

His neighbor was draining his filter with what was the consistancy of rotten yogurt. I'm actually going to be pulling his deck and replacing his tank this winter on the side.

Even the boats that are driven EVERYDAY are getting water in the tanks from condensation or evaporation

Look at the boats fuel vent, I can pretty much garuntee that if the boat is unwaxed fiberglass, you'll see mold, actual mold forming around the vent becuase the ethanol is attracting that much moisture. I just pulled the filler on my 7 and spent about an hour cleaning all the corrosion off that fucking thing. Think about that for a minute.... the ethanol is causing corrosion on a piece that it touches for all of a few minutes every week.

The fuel filter on my buddies Volvo was clogged solid, pulled the pump to see how bad the tank was and it was spotless, Fords seem especially susceptable to this from what I've been told. Something about the glue in the filters that they use is breaking down and clogging itself.

Ethanol broke down my epoxy coated fuel tank, clogged my filter and cost me an engine.

Ethanol and all the propagandists promoting it can suck my left nut while I shower their face with baby batter. It's more expensive than gas, get WAY less mileage, fucks up everything that it touches, ruins vehicles, boats and wallets... I WAS getting 22-25 mpg in my Cherokee, now ~17-18mpg. So you add 10% Ethanol and I lose 23-32% of my mileage, so in REAL terms I'm using 13-22% MORE fossil fuels to save 10%???? Where the hell did these people learn math?
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Old 07-28-2009, 01:31 PM   #10
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I've never heard of anyone doing it on a stock TII.

But the conversions I've known about are basically that straightforward, setting all the other variables aside.

So in short - in should work. But bear in mind your fuel mileage will also drop by 30%.
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Old 07-28-2009, 03:24 PM   #11
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Quote:
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I've never heard of anyone doing it on a stock TII.

But the conversions I've known about are basically that straightforward, setting all the other variables aside.

So in short - in should work. But bear in mind your fuel mileage will also drop by 30%.
^take notes Ender. thats the correct way to answer a question.

I understand the fuel milage loss. but then again e85 is cheaper. from the studies that have been done, it still costs a little more to run e85. but its not much of a difference money wise. i'll just be making more trips to the pump...
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Old 07-28-2009, 04:30 PM   #12
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Interesting
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Old 07-29-2009, 12:54 AM   #13
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If you really want to convert you might look into something like this:
http://www.zeitronix.com/Products/ECA/ECA.htm
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Old 08-13-2009, 03:42 AM   #14
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^ i like your thinking...

im pretty sure if you would of just advanced the CAS it would of ran much better. not great, but better.
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Old 08-13-2009, 08:18 AM   #15
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^ i like your thinking...

im pretty sure if you would of just advanced the CAS it would of ran much better. not great, but better.
I did try to adjust my CAS, I even went as far as removing the stud that the nut threads onto so that I could go beyond stock limits, it didn't really help.
I also played with the idle mixture screw, still no help.
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