boost creep

low compression · 06-05-2009, 05:33 PM

I put a racing beat exhaust on my 88 t2 with the na mufflers i had laying around. At the same time i swapped to a stock turbo i had laying around since the other one smoked a little. I ported the wastegate almost to the flapper and boost wants to get to 12 psi if i go any more than part throttle. All i have not stock on the car is a fcd all stock intake. does this seem to be a bit extreem for a exhaust they sell as a direct replacement. Is my actuator bad. it sucks babying around in my car i cant even pull out in traffic without possibly hitting 10+ psi. Is this normal with the exhaust or do the na mufflers flow more than the turbo ones causing this. Any input would be great

RotaryProphet · 06-05-2009, 05:38 PM

The exhaust by itself will cause the system to run 4-5 psi above stock (how bad must the mazda system have been, seriously?), making a FCD almost necessary.

low compression · 06-07-2009, 09:25 PM

with the fcd how high is safe with stock everything else. should i just keep driving quarter throttle. im in the process of building another engine for it to install this winter but dont wanna detonate a 95 psi compresssion engine regardless

Phoenix7 · 06-07-2009, 11:20 PM

That's normal after an exhaust upgrade. The porting should help keep you from creeping but I am wondering about the wastegate too. It should be opening up around 5psi-6psi. The FCD is doing it's job but 10psi is the most you want to reach with a bone stock car. You need at least a fuel controller to safely hit 12psi.

low compression · 06-07-2009, 11:35 PM

i think i have a actuator at my moms ill switch next time i go down. i know my wastegate port wasnt extreem but i figured it would be sufficient for a exhaust upgrade made for a stock vehicle

Phoenix7 · 06-08-2009, 12:15 AM

well, the stock one is internal actuator....I assume yours is aftermarket?

low compression · 06-08-2009, 11:29 AM

maybe my terminology is incorrect but i was referring to swappin the big actuator like thing that has the rod that connects to the wastegate to open it. Its bolted to the side of the cold side housing and has the line that runs to the outlet of the cold side

rotarybeat1287 · 07-05-2009, 01:30 PM

Don't use an FCD... its tricking the computer by making it think its running lower boost. I recommend an Rtek. It, instead of not having fuel like an FCD, adds fuel above stock levels and retards timing a degree per PSI above 9psi. It also smooths out the staging points. Pretty inexpensive and a safer route for a simple TII w/ a turbo-back exhaust, and ported waste-gate.

TehMonkay · 07-08-2009, 05:42 PM

Put in a haltech.

Phoenix7 · 07-08-2009, 06:30 PM

$40 FCD + $200 A/F controller
vs
$400 Rtek
vs
$1100 Haltech ECU.

If you're going to rock the stock setup then just stick with FCD and AFC + tune or the Rtek...no point in blowing $1100 on a setup you don't need.

As far as the wastegate, if it's jammed or not opening properly then you should replace the components. Any new info on this issue?

Flooder · 07-08-2009, 09:27 PM

Ive got a full 3" turbo back on my car and I don't have any boost creep. I don't know if my wastegate has been ported or not, but I would assume with a rebuilt motor and the exhaust I would be creeping a lot. Kinda weird I guess.

Boostmaniac · 07-09-2009, 03:13 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Flooder

Ive got a full 3" turbo back on my car and I don't have any boost creep. I don't know if my wastegate has been ported or not, but I would assume with a rebuilt motor and the exhaust I would be creeping a lot. Kinda weird I guess.

You left one possibility out.

A screwed up turbo.

That's what I was rocking for a while, check it out if you can.

Full 3 inch turbo back exhaust = boost creep. Anything less means something is either wrong or you have been misinformed.

Boostmaniac · 07-09-2009, 03:11 AM

I agree with Phoenix to a degree.

Rtek imho is the best route to go for higher stock levels but not wanting to get crazy.... yet.

FCD and AF controller doesn't make up for what you can do with an Rtek which requires no wire splicing. Yes it is more expensive, but you get what you pay for.

Flooder · 07-09-2009, 07:12 PM

I have a freshly rebuilt s5 turbo, it has just as many miles as my motor, which is less than 4k right now.

Phoenix7 · 07-09-2009, 07:54 PM

maybe it's ported....unported with 3" exhaust spiked to 15 psi on me....scared teh crap out of me.

06-05-2009, 05:33 PM	#1
low compression The Newbie Join Date: Apr 2009 iTrader: (0) Posts: 25 Rep Power: 0	boost creep I put a racing beat exhaust on my 88 t2 with the na mufflers i had laying around. At the same time i swapped to a stock turbo i had laying around since the other one smoked a little. I ported the wastegate almost to the flapper and boost wants to get to 12 psi if i go any more than part throttle. All i have not stock on the car is a fcd all stock intake. does this seem to be a bit extreem for a exhaust they sell as a direct replacement. Is my actuator bad. it sucks babying around in my car i cant even pull out in traffic without possibly hitting 10+ psi. Is this normal with the exhaust or do the na mufflers flow more than the turbo ones causing this. Any input would be great

07-05-2009, 01:30 PM	#8
rotarybeat1287 Member Join Date: Feb 2008 Location: Mtns. of NC/SC iTrader: (1) Posts: 159 Rep Power: 17	Don't use an FCD... its tricking the computer by making it think its running lower boost. I recommend an Rtek. It, instead of not having fuel like an FCD, adds fuel above stock levels and retards timing a degree per PSI above 9psi. It also smooths out the staging points. Pretty inexpensive and a safer route for a simple TII w/ a turbo-back exhaust, and ported waste-gate. __________________

07-08-2009, 05:42 PM	#9
TehMonkay Rotary Fanatic Join Date: Apr 2008 Location: Louisville, KY iTrader: (0) Posts: 302 Rep Power: 17	Put in a haltech. __________________ My car blows up everytime I start it, it's rotary

07-08-2009, 09:27 PM	#11
Flooder Rotary Fanatic Join Date: Feb 2008 Location: Tucson, Arizona iTrader: (0) Posts: 321 Rep Power: 17	Ive got a full 3" turbo back on my car and I don't have any boost creep. I don't know if my wastegate has been ported or not, but I would assume with a rebuilt motor and the exhaust I would be creeping a lot. Kinda weird I guess. __________________ AZRX7.COM Red 1991 A-package(SOLD) Red 1990 GXL(SOLD) White 1989 GTUs(DEAD) Red 1988 Turbo II(DD) Black 1988 Turbo II(SOLD) Rebuilt and street ported motor, Garrett T04E Turbo, 3" Turbo Inlet Duct/AEM Dry Flow Filter, Your Mom's MBC, Blitz FMIC, 890cc and 1000cc injectors, Tomei FPR, Walbro, Rtek 2.1 ECU, Taurus E-Fan, Turbonetics BOV, 3" Motoria/Corksport Turbo Back Exhaust, Emissions Removed, Greddy Boost Gauge, Megan Racing Water Temp Gauge, 5one5 Triple Gauge Pod, AEM Uego, GP Sports Body Kit, Fiber Images CF Hood, S5 Seats, S5 Tails, S5 Alt, Dual Alt Pulley, D2 Coilovers, NRG Quick Release, Shook Motorsports Radiator, HID's, AN/Steel Braided Oil Cooler Lines, SUPER JDM TYTE DRIFT BUTTON www.DensetsuMotorsports.com www.AZRX7.Com www.FloodersAdventure.com

07-09-2009, 07:12 PM	#14
Flooder Rotary Fanatic Join Date: Feb 2008 Location: Tucson, Arizona iTrader: (0) Posts: 321 Rep Power: 17	I have a freshly rebuilt s5 turbo, it has just as many miles as my motor, which is less than 4k right now. __________________ AZRX7.COM Red 1991 A-package(SOLD) Red 1990 GXL(SOLD) White 1989 GTUs(DEAD) Red 1988 Turbo II(DD) Black 1988 Turbo II(SOLD) Rebuilt and street ported motor, Garrett T04E Turbo, 3" Turbo Inlet Duct/AEM Dry Flow Filter, Your Mom's MBC, Blitz FMIC, 890cc and 1000cc injectors, Tomei FPR, Walbro, Rtek 2.1 ECU, Taurus E-Fan, Turbonetics BOV, 3" Motoria/Corksport Turbo Back Exhaust, Emissions Removed, Greddy Boost Gauge, Megan Racing Water Temp Gauge, 5one5 Triple Gauge Pod, AEM Uego, GP Sports Body Kit, Fiber Images CF Hood, S5 Seats, S5 Tails, S5 Alt, Dual Alt Pulley, D2 Coilovers, NRG Quick Release, Shook Motorsports Radiator, HID's, AN/Steel Braided Oil Cooler Lines, SUPER JDM TYTE DRIFT BUTTON www.DensetsuMotorsports.com www.AZRX7.Com www.FloodersAdventure.com

06-05-2009, 05:38 PM	#2
RotaryProphet Rotary Fanatic Join Date: Sep 2008 iTrader: (0) Posts: 147 Rep Power: 17	The exhaust by itself will cause the system to run 4-5 psi above stock (how bad must the mazda system have been, seriously?), making a FCD almost necessary.

06-07-2009, 09:25 PM	#3
low compression The Newbie Join Date: Apr 2009 iTrader: (0) Posts: 25 Rep Power: 0	with the fcd how high is safe with stock everything else. should i just keep driving quarter throttle. im in the process of building another engine for it to install this winter but dont wanna detonate a 95 psi compresssion engine regardless

06-07-2009, 11:35 PM	#5
low compression The Newbie Join Date: Apr 2009 iTrader: (0) Posts: 25 Rep Power: 0	i think i have a actuator at my moms ill switch next time i go down. i know my wastegate port wasnt extreem but i figured it would be sufficient for a exhaust upgrade made for a stock vehicle

06-08-2009, 11:29 AM	#7
low compression The Newbie Join Date: Apr 2009 iTrader: (0) Posts: 25 Rep Power: 0	maybe my terminology is incorrect but i was referring to swappin the big actuator like thing that has the rod that connects to the wastegate to open it. Its bolted to the side of the cold side housing and has the line that runs to the outlet of the cold side

07-09-2009, 03:11 AM	#13
Boostmaniac Rotary Fanatic Join Date: Apr 2008 iTrader: (0) Posts: 182 Rep Power: 0	I agree with Phoenix to a degree. Rtek imho is the best route to go for higher stock levels but not wanting to get crazy.... yet. FCD and AF controller doesn't make up for what you can do with an Rtek which requires no wire splicing. Yes it is more expensive, but you get what you pay for.

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