Removing PS

SteveO · 11-04-2008, 10:01 PM

Its time to dump my power steering, however Im confused.

On my old SE, I just pulled the pump when I pulled the AC and such. Had no issues. Drove with it like that for years, and its still being driven that way with the current owner.

Im sure its as easy to remove the pump, but will having a power steering rack, minus fluid,pump,etc hurt anything on a FC? I have read yes and I have read no.
I know it would be sensible to track down a manual rack, but for now, I cant drive with the PS. Its sloppy and doesnt feel comfortable at all. Its great for moving around a parking lot of whatever, but thats about it. I dont feel safe with it.

djmtsu · 11-04-2008, 10:11 PM

I have my rack de-powered the 'poor mans' way. Removed the pump and all associated lines. Put a few caps full of PS back into the rack and a friend made a hard line to connect the two holes in the rack together. I have had no issues, and it is not as hard to turn at low speeds than expected.

Now, I have driven a manual rack FC, and wow. It is like having power steering because the ratio is so different. If you want to go hardcore, you can take the rack completely apart and remove the 'collar' that acts like a piston within the rack.

Hope some of this helps.

Max777 · 11-05-2008, 04:36 PM

There is an FAQ somewhere on how to PROPERLY depower the rack, it involves removing it out of the car, some cutting, and some grinding, and some welding, but afterwards, you have a fully manual steering rack that acts properly.

If you do it the poor mans way, there will be much more resistance than doing it properly, so I would say just keep it the way it is, because you still wont get rid of the slop by just removing the pump and lines, to do that you will need to weld the insides of the rack together.

djmtsu · 11-05-2008, 07:07 PM

The poor mans way only has resistance at less than 5 mph. After that only a girly man would have issues.

And taking the rack apart and chiseling off the collar to make a manual WILL NOT make it the same as a manual rack. The ratios are different, to make up for the lack of hydraulic assist.

Max777 · 11-05-2008, 09:49 PM

Well, that is true to a degree. There is however, about 5~10 degrees of slop that is designed into the power rack, which is not done on the manual rack. The point of taking the rack apart is really more to weld that than to cut the collars, but why not do that too since you're in there anyway?

As far as the ratios, yes, they ARE different, as you dont need to turn the wheel as much with the quicker ratio once you do the conversion.

I researched the hell out of this topic, and was about to do the convesrion myself. The only reason I didnt was because I plan to attend local drift events as well as track and autocross. I dunno, I might still rip all that stuff off if I think I can handle it withought it alright.

WE3RX7 · 11-05-2008, 10:28 PM

I depowered my old rack and I'll be depowering another one this month. The PS S5 rack I'm going to use now is 17.4:1 ratio I believe and the manual rack is 20:1, so there isn't a TON of difference there. I'm also adding new inner tie rods which increase steering angle which would in turn make it "easier" to drive as I'll need less turn of the steering wheel to achieve higher angle at the tire.

I depower mine the right way though. I know somebody had a good write-up at some point about it, but I don't believe he showed the welding. I'll try to highlight all of this in a new write up for RCC.

yeti · 11-06-2008, 10:57 AM

TTT has a nice writeup.. I think the write up is on nopistons. I'm not at home so I don't have the link.

rx7 FC TII · 11-06-2008, 04:15 PM

i think the link is on the 7club linking it to a miata website.

i did the poorman depower and its fine. ya its a little hard to turn at low speeds but well worth it in the upper speeds. my PS started to act very funny and was sloppy. then almost killed me when my car shut off around a turn so i decided to get rid of it.

11-04-2008, 10:01 PM	#1
SteveO The Newbie Join Date: Nov 2008 iTrader: (0) Posts: 2 Rep Power: 0	Removing PS Its time to dump my power steering, however Im confused. On my old SE, I just pulled the pump when I pulled the AC and such. Had no issues. Drove with it like that for years, and its still being driven that way with the current owner. Im sure its as easy to remove the pump, but will having a power steering rack, minus fluid,pump,etc hurt anything on a FC? I have read yes and I have read no. I know it would be sensible to track down a manual rack, but for now, I cant drive with the PS. Its sloppy and doesnt feel comfortable at all. Its great for moving around a parking lot of whatever, but thats about it. I dont feel safe with it. __________________ 1988 Mazda RX-7 GXL 1984 Mazda RX-7 GSL-SE - SOLD 2002 Mazda Protege 5 2004 Mazda Tribute

11-04-2008, 10:11 PM	#2
djmtsu My minds tellin' me no... Join Date: Feb 2008 Location: Murfreesboro, TN iTrader: (10) Posts: 4,043 Rep Power: 21	I have my rack de-powered the 'poor mans' way. Removed the pump and all associated lines. Put a few caps full of PS back into the rack and a friend made a hard line to connect the two holes in the rack together. I have had no issues, and it is not as hard to turn at low speeds than expected. Now, I have driven a manual rack FC, and wow. It is like having power steering because the ratio is so different. If you want to go hardcore, you can take the rack completely apart and remove the 'collar' that acts like a piston within the rack. Hope some of this helps. __________________ 1976 Mazda Cosmo RX-5 1976 Mazda Cosmo RX-5 2003 Toyota Tundra TRD 2015 Toyota 4Runner SR5

11-05-2008, 04:36 PM	#3
Max777 Pirate Join Date: Mar 2008 Location: Central IL iTrader: (5) Posts: 1,323 Rep Power: 18	There is an FAQ somewhere on how to PROPERLY depower the rack, it involves removing it out of the car, some cutting, and some grinding, and some welding, but afterwards, you have a fully manual steering rack that acts properly. If you do it the poor mans way, there will be much more resistance than doing it properly, so I would say just keep it the way it is, because you still wont get rid of the slop by just removing the pump and lines, to do that you will need to weld the insides of the rack together. __________________ Rotaries:They are NOT that complicated!

11-05-2008, 07:07 PM	#4
djmtsu My minds tellin' me no... Join Date: Feb 2008 Location: Murfreesboro, TN iTrader: (10) Posts: 4,043 Rep Power: 21	The poor mans way only has resistance at less than 5 mph. After that only a girly man would have issues. And taking the rack apart and chiseling off the collar to make a manual WILL NOT make it the same as a manual rack. The ratios are different, to make up for the lack of hydraulic assist. __________________ 1976 Mazda Cosmo RX-5 1976 Mazda Cosmo RX-5 2003 Toyota Tundra TRD 2015 Toyota 4Runner SR5

11-05-2008, 09:49 PM	#5
Max777 Pirate Join Date: Mar 2008 Location: Central IL iTrader: (5) Posts: 1,323 Rep Power: 18	Well, that is true to a degree. There is however, about 5~10 degrees of slop that is designed into the power rack, which is not done on the manual rack. The point of taking the rack apart is really more to weld that than to cut the collars, but why not do that too since you're in there anyway? As far as the ratios, yes, they ARE different, as you dont need to turn the wheel as much with the quicker ratio once you do the conversion. I researched the hell out of this topic, and was about to do the convesrion myself. The only reason I didnt was because I plan to attend local drift events as well as track and autocross. I dunno, I might still rip all that stuff off if I think I can handle it withought it alright. __________________ Rotaries:They are NOT that complicated! Last edited by Max777; 11-05-2008 at 09:51 PM..

11-05-2008, 10:28 PM	#6
WE3RX7 RCC Addict Join Date: Feb 2008 Location: VA iTrader: (1) Posts: 1,812 Rep Power: 18	I depowered my old rack and I'll be depowering another one this month. The PS S5 rack I'm going to use now is 17.4:1 ratio I believe and the manual rack is 20:1, so there isn't a TON of difference there. I'm also adding new inner tie rods which increase steering angle which would in turn make it "easier" to drive as I'll need less turn of the steering wheel to achieve higher angle at the tire. I depower mine the right way though. I know somebody had a good write-up at some point about it, but I don't believe he showed the welding. I'll try to highlight all of this in a new write up for RCC.

11-06-2008, 10:57 AM	#7
yeti Rotary Fan in Training Join Date: Mar 2008 Location: Morristown, TN iTrader: (0) Posts: 70 Rep Power: 17	TTT has a nice writeup.. I think the write up is on nopistons. I'm not at home so I don't have the link. __________________ 1989 vert, RB header and presilencer (looking for a catback), SAFC-II, custom fiberglass speakerbox, 130 amp alternator sweetness. Parts Interchangeability List

11-06-2008, 04:15 PM	#8
rx7 FC TII Rotary Fanatic Join Date: Feb 2008 Location: hoover iTrader: (0) Posts: 161 Rep Power: 17	i think the link is on the 7club linking it to a miata website. i did the poorman depower and its fine. ya its a little hard to turn at low speeds but well worth it in the upper speeds. my PS started to act very funny and was sloppy. then almost killed me when my car shut off around a turn so i decided to get rid of it.

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