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RX-7 2nd Gen Specific (1986-92) RX-7 1986-92 Discussion including performance modifications and technical support sections.

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Old 10-26-2008, 11:43 PM   #1
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Default finally got my car running, got some bugs to work out.

Ok, so tonight my car miraculously started up, after about 7 months of work on it, and I can't be happier, so I want to start this thread to sort out any final little problems with it.

Ok, so as I said, the cluster and the wiper switch dont light up, but my headlights work, and the headlight switch does light up.

The BAC seems to be operating all the time with the engine off, but the key on.

My coolant is full, but my buzzer is working... I gounded it to be sure it's not the wire, and the noise went away, so I think it's the sensor itself?

I can get one at Rock auto for like $14, but it's only listed for 86 87 88 model years, so would it work on a 91? It looks the same from the pics at least.

Oh yeah, and my car idles at 2000rpm, i think i read somewhere that this is not all that uncommon when stuff is out of spec, so I'm going to try to adjust the tps to see if that helps, I got an analog DVOM so it should be good I hope.







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Old 10-27-2008, 05:04 AM   #2
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the coolant buzzer is going off probably because u have an air pocket right at the top by the sensor..

this is common take a moment to get the car up to temp and bleed the cooling system properly..


Glad u got it to fire up..
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Old 10-27-2008, 08:17 AM   #3
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Yeah, I'm really surprised that it fired up like it did, I thought I'd have to do a ot more adjustments to make it even run. I'm going to try adjusting timing, tps, idle, and my BAC to make it run better, but I really need some help to do all this, because this is my first rotary project.

PS: because my 6pt intake stuff was seized up, I had to remove all that crap, and JB weld the holes shut. It worked well, but I'm wondering if doing this would raise Idle because more air is entering the combustion chamber at idle?
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Old 10-27-2008, 08:33 AM   #4
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I would have just removed the 6pt sleeves and left it all open.. by sealing them off you just choked the motor in the higher RPM's

you want those 6 port openings open to flow more air above 3K
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Old 10-27-2008, 04:54 PM   #5
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I took out the sleeves too, dont worry I'm not THAT stupid! I was talking about the holes in the intake manifold, not the block, lol. I took the rods and all that jazz out as well as the sleeves.

But the thing is, I still have the VDI valve in there, so I'm going to need to figure out how I'm going to get that opened or i still have the choking problem you described.

The thing is, I didn't WANT to remove the 6pt, i HAD to, so I'm keeping the VDI, just gotta figure out how I'm gonna make it open. I'm thinking to use the same method that rotary resurrection has on his website.
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Old 10-28-2008, 08:10 AM   #6
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Yesterday I bolted up a temporary muffler to it, and secured the loose ground. I'm still trying to figure out why the car wont rev, and still idles at 2000 rpm and chokes itself when I try to rev it at all.

I had no leaks, everything is good, no bad smells...
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Old 10-28-2008, 08:34 AM   #7
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is your tps adjusted right?
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Old 10-28-2008, 08:54 AM   #8
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Well, that's what I'm going to try to do today, i can't find the directions, I remember they were in an FAQ or something...

Ok, I found it: http://www.rotorwiki.com/index.php/TPS_Adjustment

I'll try that, see what happens, and report back.
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Old 10-28-2008, 09:36 PM   #9
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Ok, so I could not figure out how to do the OHM meter thing properly with the OVM, (volt meter) and so I went to radio shack, and made the LED tps sensor thingy. I asjusted it that way, but the throttle body is being a bit sticky I think, so I might need to pull it off and reclean it a bit.

I fixed the coolant buzzer, it did have air bubbles in it, and the connection between sensor and wire was't that great.

anyway, the car fired up, and revved to almost 4k rpms, and then dropped, ran at 2.2~2.4k rpms, and then died after a bit of idling. The second day the car got running, it would at least keep idle, and warm up all the way, now on the 3rd day, it runs even worse! I did add 8oz of seafoam to the gas, of which I think there might have been only 5 gallons. My spark plugs which are brand new on trailing side got a liuttle of what looks like gas/ carbon mix on them, and they STINK really bad! (could it be the seafoam?)

I checked the compression, and it was way low, below 60 psi on the gauge, but this was on both faces, and I think the gauge is broken. I'm going to try again tomorrow with a different compression tester to see how it works out.


EDIT: here's some of the stuff I fixed up btw:

cleaned, and flow tested injectors at witchhunter (25 days before I got fuel in them, possible they are stricking?) I replaced o2 sensor, cleaned AIT sensor, the Oil pressure gauge is pegged all the way up, (I have an S5 car, and my friend has an S4 with one pegged down) removed emissions, new gaskets, complete removal of 6pt system except the VDI thing, new spark plug wires, new plugs, new water pump, etc. I put like somewhere between 1 to 2 thousand dollars into this car in parts.
The thing is, the car runs really rough, and my dad said it sounds like it might be missing a little, so I was thinking to adjust timing as well on it? Can i do that when the car will barely run and idles at 2000rpm?

God damn it, why does my car run like shit after all this time, money, and effort poured into it? Lol, I feel like a total newbie right now because I cant get it to work right,

EDIT: After reading the bottom of this: http://fc3spro.com/TECH/PROBLEMS/P1/ENGINE/leaksv.html

it says that the lower fuel injector grommets can leak. I think that witchhunter sent me the wrong gromets because the secondary injectors WERE a bit loose in their holes, so I wonder if that could contribute to the problem? and the grommets looked different too!
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Old 10-29-2008, 07:31 PM   #10
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anyone?
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Old 10-29-2008, 07:52 PM   #11
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If the grommets are not seating well enough, you get a vacuum leak.

The oil pressure sending unit might have taken a hit when you put the engine in. Mine pegged to the top when I put my motor in, then the actual gauge broke. So now I have an Autometer replacement. Check the resistor thingy that is down there where the bell housing and engine connect (below oil sending unit). That can cause weird issues.



Is the motor a rebuild?
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Old 10-29-2008, 08:26 PM   #12
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no, the motor supposedly has about 90,000 to 100,000 miles. Resistor thingy? The same one that I had 2 left over of and couldnt figure out where they went?
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Old 10-29-2008, 08:53 PM   #13
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Got a pic?

Its a little black box with a ring terminal sticking out of it.
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Old 10-29-2008, 11:31 PM   #14
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yeah, i know what that is now.


umm, I just wanted to add, since I removed my AC, I took out the little harness that plugs into the body harness, and into a Relay off the car. I dont know why it would make the car run weird, but that's the story.

I'm going to try plugging that back in tomorrow, and see what happens. If that doesnt work, then I'm going to go grab some TB cleaner, cork gasket material, and 10mm ID hose to make a bit thicker grommets for the Fuel Injectors. I think I might have a vaccum leak or twenty, after all, at least I hope I do, lol.
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Old 10-30-2008, 02:17 PM   #15
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Shouldn't idle anywhere near that high if the idle screw is all the way in, did you remove the thermowax?

Is the afm connected? Have you tested it?
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