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RX-7 3rd Gen Specific (1993-2002) RX-7 1993-2002 Discussion including performance modifications and Technical Support Sections.

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Old 06-22-2008, 09:31 PM   #1
bbade
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Default Exhaust System ?'s

I am currently running a 3" downpipe and Racing Beat single tip catback exhaust. I am thinking about replacing the stock main cat with either a resonated midpipe or high-flow cat.

Has anyone had experience using either, I'd like to know about differences in sound and performance. I'd rather not have a super loud car, but I would like the improved performance. Thanks!






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Old 06-22-2008, 09:58 PM   #2
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If you don't a loud car just get a hi flow cat.
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Old 06-23-2008, 08:20 AM   #3
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with the racing beat cat-back it wont be unbearable. if you are after performance go with the resonated midpipe, if you need to pass emissions (we dont have emissions testing) then go with the cat.
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Old 06-23-2008, 09:00 AM   #4
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On my VR FD, I have a high flow cat and a racing beat dual tip. It has a very very nice tone to it. At idle you don't even know it has an exhaust, it really comes alive when you open up the throttle though. I drive on the interstate alot and I prefer this set up. Many years ago I ran a straight through exhaust, and while perfomance is better, I'm not trying to make my VR FD the fastest car in the world... it's a nice comprimise. My T78 FD is loud enough for the both of them. I have a resonated midpipe on the T78 and it does make it a little more quite.
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Old 06-23-2008, 12:48 PM   #5
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I have a single tip with open exhaust and it's not to loud, I was actually surprised how quiet it really was. It does start to make some noise once you open up the secondary turbo though, but for driving around it's not bad.

As for performance their is a big difference in the stock cat and a midpipe. You do need to make sure your wastegate is ported if you change it though.
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Old 06-24-2008, 06:19 AM   #6
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Ah i completely forgot about having to port the wastegate. Would this be necessary with a hi-flow cat?
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Old 06-24-2008, 09:03 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bbade View Post
Ah i completely forgot about having to port the wastegate. Would this be necessary with a hi-flow cat?
Necessary? Not if you get this:
http://www.rotarycarclub.com/showthread.php?p=19652

Little-to-No downtime is always a plus.
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Which makes perfect sense. They are sacrificing safety either way. lol


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Old 06-24-2008, 07:37 PM   #8
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If you are still running sequential switching to a midpipe will not make the car extremely loud. The sequential cars are much quieter than non-seq and you really wont notice a lot of exhaust note change at idle or partial throttle with the RB exhaust.
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Old 06-24-2008, 08:43 PM   #9
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Yeah I am running sequential and don't intend to change it anytime soon. Does anyone have any info on porting the wastegate (cost, difficulty, etc...)?
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Old 06-25-2008, 07:13 AM   #10
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But then you don't get the hp advantage of an open exhaust.

To port the wastegate you are going to have to take the turbos off then take it to a good machine shop.

In single mode the exhaust is really quite its only after the transition is it loud and it's not super loud. It's actually pretty neat to be cruising down the interstate and know what mode you are in by the sound.
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At the local AutoX:
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Speed for Sale shootout 2007:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JiqlyAkGmpg
A few laps at Barbers:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6_h5q...x=0&playnext=1
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Old 06-25-2008, 08:00 PM   #11
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What kind of job is pulling the turbos, am I looking at pulling the entire engine?
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Old 06-25-2008, 09:04 PM   #12
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^^hopefully not but I don't know what the removal calls for.
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But I've learned that people that don't like guns, tend to like stretched tires.

Which makes perfect sense. They are sacrificing safety either way. lol


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Old 06-25-2008, 11:03 PM   #13
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Yeah i'm pretty sure I can take the turbos to KDR for the porting so that is covered (I like to give Dave my business anyway, great guy). I'm just wondering what kind of a job I am looking at here. I have the tools and mechanical knowledge to take apart the car, I'm just concerned from a time standpoint. I also don't want to shell out the cash for someone else to do the grunt work.
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PFC, RB single tip, Koyo Radiator, KDR rebuilt motor, polished OEM front strut bar, FEED replica sideskirts, OEM 99 spec rear spoiler, SuperPro Bushings

Many thanks to Dave at KDR for sparking my rotor addiction.
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Old 06-26-2008, 07:14 AM   #14
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You don't have to pull the engine. It's pretty much just take-off/unhook everything over there off, Intake, IC piping, DP, vac lines, oil lines, coolant lines, etc. If you've never done it, it will probably take 2-4hrs to get them off and a little longer to get them back on. It's not very hard, just a PIA to reach the front oil return line and the 7 or so bolts that hold them to the engine is probably going to be a pain to get off. You may want to spray them wiht some penetrating fluid and let it set over night once you get to that point.
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At the local AutoX:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9VOSQkkSLQs
Speed for Sale shootout 2007:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JiqlyAkGmpg
A few laps at Barbers:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6_h5q...x=0&playnext=1
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Old 06-26-2008, 09:21 AM   #15
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A restrictor plate still makes good power with minimal loss as it is a small restriction less that 1/8" in length as compared to a cat. When I went non-seq and before porting my WG, I reached 170 mph at 12psi boost while testing it out with stock ports. I tested both a 2.75" and 2.5" which were made by me out of SS sheet. Had to use the 2.5" one.

You can port your own WG with a Dremel tool and save money.
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