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RX-7 2nd Gen Specific (1986-92) RX-7 1986-92 Discussion including performance modifications and technical support sections. |
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Thread Tools | Display Modes |
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06-28-2011, 07:54 PM | #1 | |
RCC Contributor
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Middle Iron Corrosion
I was doing final assembly, got to the middle iron and noticed corrosion. I have no clue when or how it got there. At first I thought it was damaged when I knocked the iron over and onto some tools while putting the front rotor in.
After closer inspection and even testing a bad iron by pushing it over onto the same tools. I found that it wasn't damaged when it fell over. The only thing I can think is that I sprayed all the parts off on Sunday. After sitting for almost 2 years they had gotten dusty, spider nests, etc. I tried cleaning the surface with some paint thinner but it won't come off. I can feel the marks with my finger. Obviously I'm concerned how they will affect compression? My thoughts are that they must be from hosing the parts off a couple days ago. I did not coat them with anything afterwards I was expecting to do the rebuild Sunday. It has to be recent, I can't believe that I'd miss something like that.
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1990 Vert/ S5-JDM 13BT (rebuilt but with issues I'm working out). Rtek N370 1.7, 550/800 injectors, FD fuel pump, RB REV TII exhaust, Tein springs and Illuminas |
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06-29-2011, 10:47 PM | #2 |
The quest for more torque
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The oil film should mostly fill that corrosion near the port, although it is a crying shame that you didn't get some WD40 or oil on the housing right away to prevent that from happening.
I would be most worried about the corrosion in the oil control ring region. It appears that you used some type of water-based solvent to clean the housings, as the corrosion seems to track a drip path. Good center housings are about $50 on eBay typically. NA center housings are pretty common.
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1986 GXL ('87 4-port NA - Haltech E8, LS2 Coils. Defined Autoworks Headers, Dual 2.5" Exhaust (Dual Superflow, dBX mufflers) 1991 Coupe (KYB AGX Shocks, Eibach lowering springs, RB exhaust, Stock and Automatic) |
06-30-2011, 05:01 AM | #3 |
RCC Addict
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You can typically knock off this kinda of "surface rust" with some light oil and a fine grit sandpaper.
This should not affect compression in any way. This is the good news. The bad news is that Mazda gas-nitrides those surfaces for wear. Rust will usually eat through this gas-nitride surface, causing accelerated wear on the housing. -Ted |
06-30-2011, 06:46 AM | #4 |
Rotary Fanatic
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Wee here at ChipsMotorsports.com can surface grind and re gas nitrate the plate for you.
Pics with info http://rotarycarclub.com/rotary_foru...ead.php?t=3109 Pricing http://www.chipsmotorsports.com/serv...d-re-nitriding Hope this helps. Chip U |
06-30-2011, 01:44 PM | #5 | ||||
RCC Contributor
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The only things I used to clean any of the engine parts was Simple Green, acetone, when I ran out of acetone i switched to paint thinner. I did spray them down with water Sunday. Quote:
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1990 Vert/ S5-JDM 13BT (rebuilt but with issues I'm working out). Rtek N370 1.7, 550/800 injectors, FD fuel pump, RB REV TII exhaust, Tein springs and Illuminas |
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