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RX-7 2nd Gen Specific (1986-92) RX-7 1986-92 Discussion including performance modifications and technical support sections. |
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06-09-2011, 03:47 PM | #1 |
destroy, rebuild, repeat
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undertray mod solution for overheating problems
anybody who has owned an FC know they overheat very easily.. I had upgraded to koyo radiator, and i still had overheating problems when I pushed it hard when in the mountains or on track days.. it would always get hot after about 10 mins of WOT driving on a track, even in cool weather.
the solution is all in the ducting.. I looked at the factory undertray, a lot of air is lost to under the radiator and through that space between the top of the radiator and the radiator support. I used aluminum tape to seal off the upper gap and it helped a great deal. The next thing I did was modify the undertray by cutting off the back half, right where it meets the bottom of the radiator. I zip-tied the tray to the bottom of the radiator, and then used aluminum tape to seal it off. This forces all air through the radiator before the mods, the temps would get up to about 1/4th of the gauge at interstate speeds with a/c on, and I had to up my e-fan setting to 205F to prevent it from constantly running. after the ducting mods, the temps never get above 1/8th of the gauge when at speed. I recently took it to the mountains and ran around several hours with a/c full blast in 90+ degree weather and it stayed at 1/8th of the gauge.
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1993 RX-7 Touring MB, stockport 13B-REW, 9.4CR rotors, T04S 60-1/p-trim single turbo 1986 RX-7 Base project track beast |
06-10-2011, 08:09 AM | #3 |
destroy, rebuild, repeat
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i can get some actual numbers with the haltech and post some pics next week
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1993 RX-7 Touring MB, stockport 13B-REW, 9.4CR rotors, T04S 60-1/p-trim single turbo 1986 RX-7 Base project track beast |
06-10-2011, 08:18 AM | #5 |
Sigh.....
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On the stock radiator there is (or was) a foam piece on the bottom of it that sealed the air from going under the radiator. On my Koyo I bought insulation that goes around a window air conditioner (Wal-Mart) and expoxied it to the bottom of the radiator. Do that and get a new thermostat and you'll be fine.
I took my car to Talladega (Alabama) in July and ragged it for 30 minutes at a time and it barely budged over 1/4.
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1986 Sport: 132k miles, 5A (Sapphire Blue Metallic), Tokico Blues, Racing Beat Springs, Custom LED tailights (only S4 LED tails in the world), SSR Mark II, Racing Beat exhaust, S5 black interior, Rotary Resurrection rebuild at 120k miles Community Service Manual RotorWiki "Imagination costs nothing; we could build square locomotives or fly to Mars" - Felix Wankel Yesterday is history, tomorrow is a mystery, but today is a gift. That is why it is called the "present." |
06-10-2011, 09:22 AM | #6 |
Waffles - hmmm good
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Yeah even the first gens have/had that foam piece between the oil cooler and
the radiator (on the SAs) so that air would be forced thru the cooler and radiator. Plus the underpan missing on a 1stgen is a prescription for overheating. Good work on dealing with it Jamin. Hope to see you around. B3R for sure! I think because these cars all tend to have the openings under the bumper, the trays and how things seal around the radiators are key. Otherwise the air takes the easy way out and dumps out under the engine. The trays also help create a vacuum under/behind the radiator to help pull the air thru, at least to my untrained eye that seems to be the case for why the trays often extend back all the way to the engine. I'm not a 2G owner but I see a lot of similiarities all the same.
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1980 GS stockport, Fat Nikki, RB Dual Facetfuel pumps, Holley regulator, RB Street port exhaust, 2GDFIS, MR2 MK I electric fans, 2G strut bar, relayed fans, lights and fuel pump, LEDs Project Fat Nikki Budget 12A rebuild Video setup < $30.00 |
06-10-2011, 10:51 AM | #7 | |
Lifetime Rotorhead
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