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Old 05-03-2011, 05:02 PM   #1
JustJeff
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Default Dropping my 1st rear subframe, what to expect??

As part of swapping my turbo vert drivetrain into a new vert I'll be dropping two rear subframes to swap differentials. I'm thinking of leaving the tires on so it's easier to move around once off. Obviously disconnect shocks, brake lines, e-brake. I've got 2 bolts on the subframe, another 2 on the diff, and the control link.

Am I missing anything. I haven't been under the car in sometime, was gonna get under the car today..what with it not raining. BUT water happens to be draining right where my engine-less car is sitting.

What's the lifespan on the rear bushings? Obviously now would be a great time to replace them. I'm not looking for any of the hardened or polyurethane bushings. From what I've read and been told it'll increase ride noise and stiffness but have minimal benefits for a city and daily driven car.

I am considering DTSS removal, but I've never driven an FC that has that removed. Experience, thoughts and opinions are appreciated.

In general what should I expect and what else or extra can I do?






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1990 Vert/ S5-JDM 13BT (rebuilt but with issues I'm working out). Rtek N370 1.7, 550/800 injectors, FD fuel pump, RB REV TII exhaust, Tein springs and Illuminas
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Old 05-03-2011, 07:09 PM   #2
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I recently dropped my 1st subframe. I not sure about leaving the wheels on? I just used a jack and block of wood (to help distribute the weight), and slowly let it down making sure it wasnt catching on anything and tried to keep it from binding on the studs. I am replacing all of the bushings because mine looked rough, I am using the competition diff bushings, solid subframe bushings, polyurethane control arm bushings, and DTSS removal bushings.

The only suggestion I really have is to just take your time, that rear end it heavy!
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Old 05-03-2011, 07:36 PM   #3
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^Thanks, I'll be doing the work at a shop a friend owns. The shop doesn't have lifts but there are plenty of hyrdaulic jacks to go around. The wheels obviously make it heavier but it sure would be alot easier to move around once it's down. I'm planning to line up both cars, take down the subframes, and swap the whole subframe.

One thing I thought of. Since the N/A driveshaft will be swapped also, is there any danger in leaving the driveshaft bolted to the diff?
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Originally Posted by yzf-r1
Take your pathetic ultimatums and stupid "AOL" comments and shove them straight up your ass, you little punk. You avatar is gay as well....

1990 Vert/ S5-JDM 13BT (rebuilt but with issues I'm working out). Rtek N370 1.7, 550/800 injectors, FD fuel pump, RB REV TII exhaust, Tein springs and Illuminas
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Old 05-03-2011, 07:44 PM   #4
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Unbolting the drive shaft and removing it by itself would be easier.
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Old 05-07-2011, 02:25 PM   #5
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i was going to say greasy dirt in your eye!

but seriously on a lift, you need one of those heavy hand/transmission jacks to support stuff while its up there, and you probably want to loosen the subframe, and unbolt the diff, as the subframe isn't too heavy, and the diff isn't too heavy.

the diff and subframe ARE heavy together, and they get a little tricky when they are held together by rubber above your head! on the floor its not too bad as an assembly, but way up in the air it might suck

also since the subframe locates the suspension arms, it won't roll without it

mike
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Old 07-09-2011, 07:00 PM   #6
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Subframe and differential are dropped. Taking it down wasn't so bad at all. I can see how getting it back on will be the fun part.
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Originally Posted by yzf-r1
Take your pathetic ultimatums and stupid "AOL" comments and shove them straight up your ass, you little punk. You avatar is gay as well....

1990 Vert/ S5-JDM 13BT (rebuilt but with issues I'm working out). Rtek N370 1.7, 550/800 injectors, FD fuel pump, RB REV TII exhaust, Tein springs and Illuminas
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