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| RX-7 2nd Gen Specific (1986-92) RX-7 1986-92 Discussion including performance modifications and technical support sections. |
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Thread Tools | Display Modes |
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| RX-7 2nd Gen Specific (1986-92) RX-7 1986-92 Discussion including performance modifications and technical support sections. |
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Thread Tools | Display Modes |
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03-31-2008, 06:52 PM
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#1 |
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The Newbie
Join Date: Mar 2008
Posts: 11
Rep Power: 0  |
Bad idle, Hesitation under load, black smoke
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Last edited by FRFC3S; 09-10-2020 at 02:34 AM. |
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03-31-2008, 07:16 PM
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#2 |
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Rotary Fan in Training
Join Date: Mar 2008
Posts: 59
Rep Power: 18 |
Jesus! Might just want to go ahead and slave in a spare ECU and see what happens.
__________________
1988 10th Anniversary 554 RWHP, 395 RW Torque 10.7 @ 126! owner: www.azrx7.com Engine built by ARIZONA ROTARY ROCKETS www.azrotaryrockets.com |
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03-31-2008, 07:23 PM
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#3 |
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The Newbie
Join Date: Mar 2008
Posts: 11
Rep Power: 0 |
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Last edited by FRFC3S; 09-10-2020 at 02:35 AM. |
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03-31-2008, 07:28 PM
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#4 |
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2nd Generation Freak
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Chuck Vegas, NH
Posts: 64
Rep Power: 18 |
Check to see if all the electrical connectors are tight under the hood. My car did something very similar to yours cause the TPS and AIT sensors had come unhooked.
__________________
'87 TII- full emissions removal, a/c removed, FPD removed, dual 12" e-fans, Rotary Performance FCD, ACT unsprung 6 puck w/ Xtreme PP, custom open 2.5 inch exhaust, custom clutch pivot ball, K&N cone filter, TB mod, RB downpipe, motor blown 8/7/09  '94 Mazda B4000- POS beater truck, stock "The easiest way to fail is to never try." - Me |
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03-31-2008, 10:33 PM
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#5 |
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The Newbie
Join Date: Mar 2008
Posts: 11
Rep Power: 0 |
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Last edited by FRFC3S; 09-10-2020 at 02:35 AM. |
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03-31-2008, 10:49 PM
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#6 |
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Rotary Fan in Training
Join Date: Mar 2008
Posts: 59
Rep Power: 18 |
Actually, you would have to check the voltage after the resistance drop, with the red lead on the proper pole of the sensor and the other lead on a chassis ground.
__________________
1988 10th Anniversary 554 RWHP, 395 RW Torque 10.7 @ 126! owner: www.azrx7.com Engine built by ARIZONA ROTARY ROCKETS www.azrotaryrockets.com |
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04-01-2008, 01:07 PM
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#7 | |
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The Newbie
Join Date: Mar 2008
Posts: 11
Rep Power: 0 |
Quote:
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04-01-2008, 01:38 PM
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#8 | |
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rotors excite me
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Iowa
Posts: 372
Rep Power: 18 |
http://www.rotorwiki.com/index.php/TPS_Adjustment
Make sure you use the S5 instructions. Your TPS could be bad, and a reading of '1', with the 1 being all the way to the left of the multimeter screen, means that the resistance is either infinite (meaning no continuity, no connection) or you are using too low of a setting. If it's '1' all the way to the right then you are probably using too high of a setting on the meter and you should turn it down until you get a non-one reading or you are as low as it will read.
__________________
He isn't a killer. He just wins -- thoroughly.   '87 TII 240+ rwhp on my DIY streetport, ~13psi on stock turbo, Racing Beat REVTII exhaust  rTek 2.1 awaits a tune Quote:
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04-01-2008, 10:00 PM
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#9 |
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The Newbie
Join Date: Mar 2008
Posts: 11
Rep Power: 0 |
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Last edited by FRFC3S; 09-10-2020 at 02:35 AM. |
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04-01-2008, 10:34 PM
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#10 | |
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rotors excite me
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Iowa
Posts: 372
Rep Power: 18 |
I did, it's just that the TPS can be problematic even if it seems to test out ok. I and others have had it happen before.
You may be on to something with vacuum leaks, they're very common and can cause really weird problems. I found the most help from a tool that plugs the intake and has a pressure gauge mounted to it, you can pressurize the intake with the adapter that's on it. I tried a few different methods of finding vacuum leaks and none of them were a fourth as effective as doing it with this tool: http://boostpro.net/prodtester.html You'd want one of these two for the best results: Boost Leak Tester (Gauged) 3" Diameter With Tire Valve Adapter $20 + $4.60 shipping Boost Leak Tester (Gauged) 3" Diameter) With Male Compressor Coupler $20 + $4.60 shipping And here's a DIY option that you can modify to make work for the '7: http://www.supercar-engineering.com/...T/IntPresTest/
__________________
He isn't a killer. He just wins -- thoroughly. '87 TII 240+ rwhp on my DIY streetport, ~13psi on stock turbo, Racing Beat REVTII exhaust rTek 2.1 awaits a tune Quote:
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04-02-2008, 05:57 PM
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#11 |
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The Newbie
Join Date: Mar 2008
Posts: 11
Rep Power: 0 |
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Last edited by FRFC3S; 09-10-2020 at 02:35 AM. |
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04-02-2008, 06:47 PM
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#12 |
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The Newbie
Join Date: Mar 2008
Posts: 11
Rep Power: 0 |
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Last edited by FRFC3S; 09-10-2020 at 02:35 AM. |
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04-03-2008, 08:32 PM
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#13 |
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The Newbie
Join Date: Mar 2008
Posts: 11
Rep Power: 0 |
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Last edited by FRFC3S; 09-10-2020 at 02:35 AM. |
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04-03-2008, 09:29 PM
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#14 |
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My minds tellin' me no...
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: Murfreesboro, TN
Posts: 4,043
Rep Power: 22 |
I am under the impression that if the boost sensor is bad, it would thrown the CEL. Is your light on?
Also, I have never heard of the the boost sensor failing (on its own) on an FC. Oh, and I don't have that many CEL codes on my S5 emissions removal.
__________________
1976 Mazda Cosmo RX-5 1976 Mazda Cosmo RX-5 2003 Toyota Tundra TRD 2015 Toyota 4Runner SR5 |
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04-03-2008, 10:17 PM
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#15 |
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I-had-a-bad-experience...
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: M'boro
Posts: 1,046
Rep Power: 19 |
you can use a n/a ecu... you just drive easy and can't boost... that would be a good way to test the engine lights..
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