85 gsl-se how to disable smog pump?

b&brx8 · 03-24-2010, 10:45 PM

I have an 85 GSL-SE (see b&brx8 albums) with 62,000 original miles. I would like to disable the smog pump, but I'm not sure what connectors/vacumm lines to plug, jump, disconnect bypass, etc. It is 100% stock, and unmodified in ANY way. Runs great, with a little stumble at idle sometimes that just recently surfaced. (vacuum leak?). I don't want to yank the factory cats (YES, it still has 'em), and have adjusted TPS, Variable resistor, BACV, etc. and tested ALL of the B.S. emission control systems, I MEAN ALL!

Replaced bad T.P.S. and O2 sensor just for shits and giggles. All plugs clean and gapped, wires ok. Coils and ignitors good (TACH WORKING FINE!) Done all this before, but had a 13b with a nikki 4bbl, so now my OHMMETER hurts. Any input would be helpful. Don't want to wind up with a hoopty that wont even idle or dies all the time. THANKS!

PS I alraedy have the dual alternator pulley, TYVM! Brian

moremazda · 03-25-2010, 07:33 PM

Well if you are still running a cat you need to have a functioning air pump or the cat will die.

What is your reason for wanting to remove the air pump?

b&brx8 · 03-26-2010, 06:24 AM

Thought it might free up a few more ponies, thats all. I got so used to a 4bbl, where you you could adjust them with a screwdriver and a 10 mm socket. But if its going to kill the cats, then I will leave it alone. But should I decide to remove the cats later, maybe headers and a pre silencer, which ones should be disconnected? Probably going to move to Arizona/Nevada area within a year or so. That's why I want to leave emission controls in place. Thanks for the info, though. Much appreciated.

moremazda · 03-26-2010, 08:16 AM

The most power would come from changing the exhaust. IE a full exhaust, header back. Then the air pump comes out along with the ACV, and a few a of the vacuum lines. It makes for happy first gen.

I don't know about Nevada, but in Arizona there are only two counties that require emissions testing and there are even ares with those counties that are exempt from testing.... Also you can insure the car as a "classic" and there for exempting the car from emissions test regardless of where you live.

rx4ur7 · 03-26-2010, 03:27 PM

Keep that puppy original. You don't really gain much from AP removal besides weight loss. You can gain a lot more clean HP in a couple of other ways with the SE.
I have worked in emission control areas since they were first implemented and have worked to find HP and still pass the gas test.
If you are moving to Tucson you are welcome to stop by.

b&brx8 · 03-28-2010, 02:24 PM

Thanks for the input. I'll leave it alone for now. Rx4ur7, please let me know what I need to do. Thanks!

TaylorI · 03-29-2010, 12:12 PM

In Nevada only Clark county (Las Vegas valley.) and the Reno area require emissions. Even then passing is not hard.

b&brx8 · 03-29-2010, 08:58 PM

Got the "rough idle" problem fixed. The tutorial by David Lane on GSL-SE idle problms did the trick for me. It was the damn throttle stop screw. No mention of it in my Factory shop manual either. I removed and cleaned the BACV and the throttle body (butterfly valves). Adjusted the TPS, etc. and now I got my baby back. Idles at 800 so smooth you can stand a nickel on end on the "dynamic chamber" while it's running and it won't fall over. YIPPEE. Tell David Lane THANKS! Work schedule permitting, I hope to be @ DGRRX.

03-24-2010, 10:45 PM	#1
b&brx8 The Newbie Join Date: Apr 2008 Location: columbus, ohio iTrader: (0) Posts: 26 Rep Power: 0	85 gsl-se how to disable smog pump? I have an 85 GSL-SE (see b&brx8 albums) with 62,000 original miles. I would like to disable the smog pump, but I'm not sure what connectors/vacumm lines to plug, jump, disconnect bypass, etc. It is 100% stock, and unmodified in ANY way. Runs great, with a little stumble at idle sometimes that just recently surfaced. (vacuum leak?). I don't want to yank the factory cats (YES, it still has 'em), and have adjusted TPS, Variable resistor, BACV, etc. and tested ALL of the B.S. emission control systems, I MEAN ALL! Replaced bad T.P.S. and O2 sensor just for shits and giggles. All plugs clean and gapped, wires ok. Coils and ignitors good (TACH WORKING FINE!) Done all this before, but had a 13b with a nikki 4bbl, so now my OHMMETER hurts. Any input would be helpful. Don't want to wind up with a hoopty that wont even idle or dies all the time. THANKS! PS I alraedy have the dual alternator pulley, TYVM! Brian

03-29-2010, 08:58 PM	#8
b&brx8 The Newbie Join Date: Apr 2008 Location: columbus, ohio iTrader: (0) Posts: 26 Rep Power: 0	Got the "rough idle" problem fixed. The tutorial by David Lane on GSL-SE idle problms did the trick for me. It was the damn throttle stop screw. No mention of it in my Factory shop manual either. I removed and cleaned the BACV and the throttle body (butterfly valves). Adjusted the TPS, etc. and now I got my baby back. Idles at 800 so smooth you can stand a nickel on end on the "dynamic chamber" while it's running and it won't fall over. YIPPEE. Tell David Lane THANKS! Work schedule permitting, I hope to be @ DGRRX. Last edited by b&brx8; 03-29-2010 at 08:59 PM.. Reason: spelling

Thread Tools
Show Printable Version Email this Page
Display Modes
Switch to Linear Mode Hybrid Mode Switch to Threaded Mode

03-25-2010, 07:33 PM	#2
moremazda shookmotorsports.com Join Date: Apr 2008 Location: Rockford, IL iTrader: (1) Posts: 108 Rep Power: 17	Well if you are still running a cat you need to have a functioning air pump or the cat will die. What is your reason for wanting to remove the air pump?

03-26-2010, 06:24 AM	#3
b&brx8 The Newbie Join Date: Apr 2008 Location: columbus, ohio iTrader: (0) Posts: 26 Rep Power: 0	Thought it might free up a few more ponies, thats all. I got so used to a 4bbl, where you you could adjust them with a screwdriver and a 10 mm socket. But if its going to kill the cats, then I will leave it alone. But should I decide to remove the cats later, maybe headers and a pre silencer, which ones should be disconnected? Probably going to move to Arizona/Nevada area within a year or so. That's why I want to leave emission controls in place. Thanks for the info, though. Much appreciated.

03-26-2010, 08:16 AM	#4
moremazda shookmotorsports.com Join Date: Apr 2008 Location: Rockford, IL iTrader: (1) Posts: 108 Rep Power: 17	The most power would come from changing the exhaust. IE a full exhaust, header back. Then the air pump comes out along with the ACV, and a few a of the vacuum lines. It makes for happy first gen. I don't know about Nevada, but in Arizona there are only two counties that require emissions testing and there are even ares with those counties that are exempt from testing.... Also you can insure the car as a "classic" and there for exempting the car from emissions test regardless of where you live.

03-26-2010, 03:27 PM	#5
rx4ur7 Rotary since 1972 Join Date: Nov 2008 Location: Tucson iTrader: (0) Posts: 231 Rep Power: 17	Keep that puppy original. You don't really gain much from AP removal besides weight loss. You can gain a lot more clean HP in a couple of other ways with the SE. I have worked in emission control areas since they were first implemented and have worked to find HP and still pass the gas test. If you are moving to Tucson you are welcome to stop by.

03-28-2010, 02:24 PM	#6
b&brx8 The Newbie Join Date: Apr 2008 Location: columbus, ohio iTrader: (0) Posts: 26 Rep Power: 0	Thanks for the input. I'll leave it alone for now. Rx4ur7, please let me know what I need to do. Thanks!

03-29-2010, 12:12 PM	#7
TaylorI Rotary Fan in Training Join Date: Dec 2009 iTrader: (0) Posts: 37 Rep Power: 0	In Nevada only Clark county (Las Vegas valley.) and the Reno area require emissions. Even then passing is not hard.