Waterpump studs

hades · 11-13-2010, 01:00 PM

Replacing water pump tomorrow. I pulled the studs so I can replace the housing gasket. Do you guys out anything in the threads when you reinstall them? Any other tips / tricks to know of?

Garfinkles Motor Works · 11-13-2010, 09:50 PM

Wire brush the threads to clean them and put on a small dap of non hardening sealer .On my car I replaced the studs with long SS allen bolts cut to lenght and the heads polished .The small bolts are SS allens as well .

hades · 11-14-2010, 01:41 AM

what non hardening sealer do you recommend?

***TitaniumTT*** · 11-14-2010, 07:19 AM

Blue lock-tite.

I did something very similar with the WP and front cover as well. Took a bunch of REALLY long SS hex head bolts and put some acorn nuts on the finished end WITHOUT washers. Put the front cover/WP on and cut the heads off and trimmed them to fit. Add a washer and the gaskets and all's good. Studding parts is a good way to go. Makes assembly easier.

The bolts for the WP itself are the SS button heads.

There was only one that wouldn't work, and it was behind the oil return line. BUT, I'm using a -10 adapter and an RE front cover. You're experience may differ.

hades · 12-12-2010, 08:07 PM

ok---dumb question - but what is a good way to make sure the studs are threaded in all the way? I put the washer and nut on and tightened. I am worried that the nut bottomed out on the stud before the stud threaded in all the way.

I can't get WP housing on with the studs in place...

any suggestions to make sure I don't mess this up.

oh and turbo coolant hoses are retarded...

C. Ludwig · 12-13-2010, 07:15 AM

You clean the threads on the stud as described above and run a chaser into the iron to clean those. Then you thread the studs in finger tight, no more. If you double nut the stud and crank it in, you will actually lessen the clamping force applied through it's threads. Studs always go in finger tight.

hades · 12-13-2010, 08:29 AM

Thanks for the reply. Do you install the studs then put on the wp? The studs really get in the way inside the car. I started to install the pump with nuts on the studs-making them act as long bolts. But I have a feeling that this is not a good idea. Ill chase the threads on the iron. Hopefully that let's me get them finger tight.

Again thanks.

C. Ludwig · 12-13-2010, 11:31 AM

I usually put the pump on the engine before it goes in the chassis. Otherwise, I can't recall ever really having a problem getting one off or on in the chassis.

11-13-2010, 01:00 PM	#1
hades Rotary Fanatic Join Date: Mar 2008 Location: Freedom Land Posts: 316 Rep Power: 18	Waterpump studs Replacing water pump tomorrow. I pulled the studs so I can replace the housing gasket. Do you guys out anything in the threads when you reinstall them? Any other tips / tricks to know of? __________________ This is going to tear

11-14-2010, 01:41 AM	#3
hades Rotary Fanatic Join Date: Mar 2008 Location: Freedom Land Posts: 316 Rep Power: 18	what non hardening sealer do you recommend? __________________ This is going to tear

11-14-2010, 07:19 AM	#4
*TitaniumTT* Test Whore - Admin Join Date: Mar 2008 Location: Right Behind you son Posts: 4,581 Rep Power: 10	Blue lock-tite. I did something very similar with the WP and front cover as well. Took a bunch of REALLY long SS hex head bolts and put some acorn nuts on the finished end WITHOUT washers. Put the front cover/WP on and cut the heads off and trimmed them to fit. Add a washer and the gaskets and all's good. Studding parts is a good way to go. Makes assembly easier. The bolts for the WP itself are the SS button heads. There was only one that wouldn't work, and it was behind the oil return line. BUT, I'm using a -10 adapter and an RE front cover. You're experience may differ. __________________ -The Angry Stig- DGRR 2009, 2011, 2012 & 2013 - Best FC DEALS GAP!! WOOHOOOO!!!!! 2015 Audi S4 - Samantha - Zero Brap S4 2004 RX8 - Jocelyn - 196rwhp, 19mpg fuel to noise converter 2000 Jeep Cherokee Sport - Wifey mobile - Now with 2.5" OME lift and 30" BFG AT KO's! So it begins 1998 Jeep Cherokee - 5 spd, 4" lift, 33" BFG's - Rotary Tow Vehicle 1988 'Vert - In progress 1988 FC Coupe - Gretchen -The attention whore BEAST! I'm a sick individual, what's wrong with you? I'm pure Evil I'm still insane, in the best possible way. I think Brian's idea of romance is using lube. Your rage caused the meteor strike in Russia. The Antichrist would be proud of his minion. You win with your thread. Most everything It's a truck with a steel gate on the back. Just a statement of fact Motec M820, AIM dash, ported 13B-RE Cosmo, 6-spd trans, 4.3 Torsen, custom twin wg fully divided mani, Custom 4" split into 2x 3" exhaust, Custom HMIC, Custom custom custom custom I like to welder stuff.... No Bolt-ons allowed. Dyno'ed @ Speed1 Tuned by me - 405rwhp on WG.... WM50 cuming soon. *-Angry Motherfcker Mode ENGAGED-** Last edited by TitaniumTT; 11-14-2010 at 07:21 AM.

12-12-2010, 08:07 PM	#5
hades Rotary Fanatic Join Date: Mar 2008 Location: Freedom Land Posts: 316 Rep Power: 18	ok---dumb question - but what is a good way to make sure the studs are threaded in all the way? I put the washer and nut on and tightened. I am worried that the nut bottomed out on the stud before the stud threaded in all the way. I can't get WP housing on with the studs in place... any suggestions to make sure I don't mess this up. oh and turbo coolant hoses are retarded... __________________ This is going to tear

12-13-2010, 07:15 AM	#6
C. Ludwig Rotary Masochist Join Date: May 2008 Location: Floyds Knobs, IN Posts: 494 Rep Power: 18	You clean the threads on the stud as described above and run a chaser into the iron to clean those. Then you thread the studs in finger tight, no more. If you double nut the stud and crank it in, you will actually lessen the clamping force applied through it's threads. Studs always go in finger tight. __________________ _______________________________________________ *One stop Haltech, AEM, Syvecs shopping. Installation and tuning.* http://www.lms-efi.com *Free support. Drop us an email.* chris@lms-efi.com 502-515-7482 Facebook @LMS-EFI

11-13-2010, 09:50 PM	#2
Garfinkles Motor Works RCC Contributor Join Date: Mar 2008 Posts: 535 Rep Power: 18	Wire brush the threads to clean them and put on a small dap of non hardening sealer .On my car I replaced the studs with long SS allen bolts cut to lenght and the heads polished .The small bolts are SS allens as well .

12-13-2010, 08:29 AM	#7
hades Rotary Fanatic Join Date: Mar 2008 Location: Freedom Land Posts: 316 Rep Power: 18	Thanks for the reply. Do you install the studs then put on the wp? The studs really get in the way inside the car. I started to install the pump with nuts on the studs-making them act as long bolts. But I have a feeling that this is not a good idea. Ill chase the threads on the iron. Hopefully that let's me get them finger tight. Again thanks. __________________ This is going to tear

12-13-2010, 11:31 AM	#8
C. Ludwig Rotary Masochist Join Date: May 2008 Location: Floyds Knobs, IN Posts: 494 Rep Power: 18	I usually put the pump on the engine before it goes in the chassis. Otherwise, I can't recall ever really having a problem getting one off or on in the chassis. __________________ _______________________________________________ *One stop Haltech, AEM, Syvecs shopping. Installation and tuning.* http://www.lms-efi.com *Free support. Drop us an email.* chris@lms-efi.com 502-515-7482 Facebook @LMS-EFI

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