FS: S4 OMP rebuild kit - full viton w/5 o-rings, $10 shipped

[alexd]

I'm working on a full rebuild kit for the S4 OMP as a side project.

The kit would include:

control lever o-ring
input shaft o-ring
2 end plate o-rings
omp to front cover o-ring
detailed instructions

All of these are in SAE/ASE spec viton and should outlast the car.

I've been testing all the pump o-rings in my personal car with great results.
The only thing left to do is to test the fitment of the new omp to front cover o-rings I received.

I'd like $10 shipped for each kit. Let me know if any of you are interested.

[AwakenNoMore]

Sound awesome, how about instructions? Isn't there a write-up somewhere?

[Iox106]

I would be inter if there is a write up or instructions?

[alexd]

Originally Posted by AwakenNoMore

Sound awesome, how about instructions? Isn't there a write-up somewhere?

I haven't been on here in a while since I thought it was a lost cause selling these on here.

The kit includes detailed instructions and a very specific list of required and recommended tools.

Here they are:

S4 Oil Metering Pump Rebuild Instructions

Included in kit:

- 2 viton end cover seals
- 1 viton arm shaft seal
- 1 viton pump drive seal
- 1 OMP to front cover seal

Exploded View:

http://www.rx7club.com/attachment.ph...0&d=1164547073

Recommended Tools:

- 10mm combination wrench
- 10mm socket (preferably 1/4" drive with several extensions and swivel joint)
- #1 phillips head screwdriver (#2 may work but has possibility of stripping head)
- propane torch or equivalent (NOT oxy-acetalene)
- teflon tape or any other thin tape (will not be used for sealing)
- razor and scribe/ small pick
- spray solvent (brakleen, carb/pcv cleaner)

1. Remove oil metering pump:

- Remove engine undertray using 10mm socket and extension.
- Clean pump and surrounding area with spray solvent such as brakleen in the red can.
- Straighten, then remove the retaining pin from the control rod on the OMP. Be careful not to lose the washers or the pin.
- Unbolt pump line fittings (4) with 10 mm wrench. Start with the two front ones, then the rear two. Be careful not to break the lines while taking of adjacent line fittings, as they are brittle from age. Do not lose the copper crush washers or the backing plate crush washer.
- Unbolt the pump from the front engine cover (2 bolts) using 10 mm socket and extensions. Remove the top bolt, then the lower bolt. A swivel/universal joint will probably be necessary for the top bolt, which is behind the lower radiator hose.
- Remove pump and clean with brakleen. Try not to get dirt in any openings. If you do, spray it out.

2. Remove covers and install o-rings

- Note the position of the spring and arm on the side of the OMP. This is important. Take a picture or make a detailed drawing, as it is hard to explain accurately.
- Unbolt the arm (10 mm wrench), clean the arm, spring, and shield, then set aside.
- Unscrew the end cover closest to the arm (two phillips screws). This will have a tab welded to the inside and only goes on one way (aka you can't mess up installation).
- Remove the arm shaft. You may have to twist the shaft back and forth and push in the piston that is behind the shaft.
- Cut the original o-ring with a razor and remove. Wrap the threads on the arm in the tape to protect the new o-ring from being torn on the sharp threads. Slide the new o-ring (smallest size and thick)) over the taped threads and slip into the groove. A little oil helps. Remove tape. ***The o-ring will feel slightly loose on the shaft. This is normal.***
- Re-install shaft.
- Remove original end plate o-ring (diamond shaped) from the end of the pump and ensure groove is clean. Install new end plate o-ring, making sure it stays seated in the groove.
- Place end plate on in the correct position and tighten screws.
- The other end plate seal is similar, but without the welded tab and arm shaft.
- Remove the drive shaft from the inside face of the pump and surrounding aluminum disc and clean. Cut out old o-ring with razor, then replace with the medium sized o-ring.
- Re-install shaft and surrounding disc.
- Put shield back over the control arm. Put the spring back on the pump, with the large hook towards the pump body and resting on bump on the pump body.
- While putting the arm back on, hook the small spring hook on the part of the arm that the rod attaches to. Pre-load the spring so that the arm will return. Re-install and tighten the nut and lock washer while stopping the arm from rotating. Make sure the spring was not pinched between the arm and pump during tightening. The arm should move freely and return by itself.

3. Re-anneal crush washers

- Using the propane torch, heat each washer until it glows a dull red color, then let it cool. Do not heat past dull red hot or the washer will melt. Repeat for the backing plate crush washer. This makes the copper soft again. It will not seal if you do not re-anneal the washers. The copper seals should now bend easily with your fingers, but only bend one slightly to test softness.

4. Installation is the reverse of removal. Remember to install the new OMP to front cover o-ring.

[alexd]

Oh, and I'd like $11 shipped to cover the cost of postage. That is standard mail.

For those of you in the far north, it's $13 shipped standard mail to Canada.

[alexd]

The viton OMP to F.C. o-ring I sourced out fits BEAUTIFULLY. Better than I expected. It's the perfect size and stays seated in the groove for painless installation.

I've sold 4 of these kits so far on rx7club and everyone seems to be pleased.

Paypal is: fah_q56@hotmail.com

[Max777]

Would you make an S5 kit? Or is the electrical one not rebuildable at all?

[alexd]

Originally Posted by Max777

Would you make an S5 kit? Or is the electrical one not rebuildable at all?

There is no control lever o-ring on the S5, but there is the side plate o-ring (one or two, can't remember), the main drive o-ring, and the omp to front cover o-ring... so, if it's leaking, then it should be able to be resealed with the proper size rings.

I've got an extra S5 OMP and I will see what I can find to fit it when i get the time.

The OMP to FC o-ring will be the same and so should the main drive. It's the side plate that might need to be sourced unless it's the same as the FD side plate o-rings.

I've been really busy with my 3rd gen engine, a prospective S5 vert, and a BMW 528e I'm fixing for my friend... but I'll try and keep you posted.

Anyone that wants a S4 kit can still send a paypal to fah_q56@hotmail.com and I will send a kit and instructions out to you ASAP. I have plenty on hand.