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RX-7 3rd Gen Specific (1993-2002) RX-7 1993-2002 Discussion including performance modifications and Technical Support Sections. |
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#1 |
Rotary Fan in Training
Join Date: Jun 2009
Posts: 31
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Polishing question
I have a few questions about polishing some of my engine parts to include the IMs, throttle body, IC pipes, ect.
What are some good tools to use for the sanding part instead of the usual wet/dry sandpaper and elbow grease. I've read to use die grinders but not sure if my air compressor is big enough to run one. They use a lot of air from what I've seen. How about electric die grinders are they worth it? Also I have a bench grinder w/ the buffing wheels I will be using with the metal polish but is there some type of sanding wheel I could put on there? Just trying to shorten the amount of time it takes to go through the sanding stages. Thanks for any tips. |
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#2 |
Rotors > Pistons
Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: Port Saint Lucie, Florida
Posts: 316
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Hate to break it to ya, but the majority of sanding is gonna be based on elbow grease. What I did to all my aluminum parts was started off lightly with a 60 grit just to knock down all the rough casting and eventually work my way up to the finer grits. I used a black&decker mouse hand sander and a dremel tool w/ the extension for every opportunity I could use them. I generally stayed away from stronger tools for polishing because theres a good possibility for creating flat spots or gashing the aluminum. Overall its just going to take a bit of time and patience, but it'll come out really nice if done right.
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#3 |
Rotary Fan in Training
Join Date: Jun 2009
Posts: 31
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Yeah I hear ya. I'll just work up through the grits then and use a dremel or something when I can.
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#4 |
Rotary Fan in Training
Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: Upstate SC
Posts: 42
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I just use power tools (die grinder, dremel, etc) to get off stuff like casting marks, seams, etc... after that I usually hit it with the blast cabinet to knock down and even out the finish... after that its all about the elbow grease until its time to actually polish.
Hence why I have started just smoothing out parts and having them powdercoated... SOOO much easier than trying to get a perfect polish finish and none of the maintenance of having to re-polish / clean spots off of polished things. |
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#5 |
RCC Addict
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: VA
Posts: 1,812
Rep Power: 19 ![]() |
Agreed - I use to hand polish things all the time, but learned that getting them prepped for polishing and then just powdercoating them turns out really well...
Actually, I once powdercoated some polished parts, that was a PERFECT finish.. |
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#6 |
RCC Contributor
Join Date: Mar 2008
Posts: 535
Rep Power: 18 ![]() |
I use both air and electric die grinders .I think the electric one comes in handy alot of the time .Well worth the money for me .Let me think ,have I ever polished any parts ?
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#7 |
Rotary Fan in Training
Join Date: Jun 2009
Posts: 31
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What type of sanding accessories are best for the die grinders? I can only find like small 2 inch discs at the local home depot and they only go to 120 grit I believe. Where as the dremel has all sorts of sanding accessories that go up to 320 I believe and their small for hard to reach spots.
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#8 |
Rotary Fan in Training
Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: Upstate SC
Posts: 42
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I had to go to autozone / northern tools to find some of the 3m sanding discs and the adapter they come with to fit into a rotary tool...
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#9 |
Rotary Fan in Training
Join Date: Jun 2009
Posts: 31
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Here are some pics of my first attempt at polishing. I've sanded from 320 all the way through 1500 and used about 2-3 ounces of my 4 ounce tube of tripoly. I'm going back over with white rouge but isn't it suppose to be really shiney even after tripoly. I must have done something wrong?
![]() ![]() Here's my dirty wheel lol ![]() |
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#10 |
Rotary Fan in Training
Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: Upstate SC
Posts: 42
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Dosen't really seem like you spent enough time working up through the sanding phase from the pics...
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#11 |
Rotary Fan in Training
Join Date: Jun 2009
Posts: 31
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so I need to go back over it and sand some more
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#12 |
Rotary Fan in Training
Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: Upstate SC
Posts: 42
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it should all be a smooth matte finish on its own before you even have to polish. all those spots where you see dark spots (that arent a shadow) are where it isn't evenly sanded.
I'd start around 800grit and sand until you have a uniform finish... then go up from there. when i get over 1000 i usually just skip 1500 and all that and just wetsand it with 1000+ until it is all uniform. Its not so much about the 'polishing' as it is about the 'smoothing'... |
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#13 |
Rotary Fan in Training
Join Date: Jun 2009
Posts: 31
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ok cool thanks for the advice I'll try again.
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#14 |
it's smoking
Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: San Diego, CA
Posts: 210
Rep Power: 17 ![]() |
I have found that using a dremel with various bit heads to removed the cast lines and then a series of sandpaper has given me the best results
here are some pictures. ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]()
__________________
if it's smoking then it's working ![]() Last edited by FDSeoul; 07-14-2009 at 06:03 PM. |
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#15 |
it's smoking
Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: San Diego, CA
Posts: 210
Rep Power: 17 ![]() |
here is a picture of a cross pipe after 150grit
![]() after 1500 grit wet sanding and hand polish ![]() recent e-bay picture ![]()
__________________
if it's smoking then it's working ![]() Last edited by FDSeoul; 07-14-2009 at 06:12 PM. |
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