Potential problems using wiper fluid

[Supernaut]

I ended up stripping my greddy elbow recently when taking my nozzle and off to clean it out (which I'll post the results off in another thread) and ended up buying a bung from howerton engineering to fix it...

http://howertonengineering.net/

(They have incredibly awesome stuff there. Like the greddy of water injection)

The nozzle is situated on the elbow in a way that it almost sprays directly into the TB and while taking off my elbow I noticed something disturbing in the TB.



Now I'm guessing this is could be due to the following...

-the many miles (probaly around 2k) I've put on since I've had the kit installed
-the large amount of water/meth the HFS1 + rx7 summer puts out
-the test diagnostic mode I enabled that sprays full force when the car was off
-water/meth source I use is no good (maybe get one with less dye or mix my own or use boost juice)

Anyone have any ideas? The good part of this is that I don't think that any of the dried up dye actually goes into the engine unless a chunk of the crystallized dye breaks off and if it does, based on what I've examined, very little goes through. I think the dye crystallizes when the water/meth mist touches a super hot surface.

Anyone else experience this?

FYI, the fluid I used failed the suds test (shooked it up and I saw bubbles).

BTW, even with this problem, water injection ROCKS!

[Fendamonky]

Gah! That looks pretty scary man.. I'd def just spend the $45-$50 (or whatever it costs now) on a 5 gallon drum of VP Methanol and do your own mixing with distilled water.

That does NOT look healthy bro!

[calicrewchief]

Originally Posted by Supernaut

-the test diagnostic mode I enabled that sprays full force when the car was off

I imagine this is your main cause. It's pre throttle body and it looks like the fluid just sat there and dried up.

[speedjunkie]

^Agreed. I've been using wiper fluid for WELL over 2k miles now and mine looks nothing like that. I don't even see any blue residue anywhere actually. I'm using an FJO kit and I only inject 100% starting in the middle and running to higher RPMs/boost levels, but I'd still be seeing it if that was the case, I would imagine.

I'd clean it out, disable that mode for a while and then see what it looks like.

[88turboii]

looks like you are just spraying way too much. how are you controlling it

[Monkman33]

The main question would be if anyone has seen anything like this when using washer fluid and never spraying unless there is air flow to the engine...

[speedjunkie]

^That's why I'm thinking it's due to the test diagnostic mode, because I only spray while it's running, and at 100% on at least half of the map and mine doesn't look like that.

However, regardless of whether it's sitting there dried up or not, that's still what's going into the engine, it just depends on if the amount being used is damaging the engine somehow. From what I understand, the only thing really different from wiper fluid and mixing your own is the dye being used. I could be wrong though.

[Fendamonky]

That and the cleaning additives...

[speedjunkie]

^Wouldn't that be a good thing though? Since we're trying to steam clean as well? LOL

Maybe not.

[Dannobre]

looks like you have a drip when the car is off.............

[Supernaut]

Woah I can't believe I missed these responses.

Originally Posted by Dannobre

looks like you have a drip when the car is off.............

It's not. While there is drippage from the nozzle - hoze, it's very minimal and easy to spot. You will see small airbubbles. At the time, I ran my car so frequently that there was rarely enough drippage for even the smallest air bubbles to form.

[RX SE7EN]

If you have strong vacuum, and the plumbing of the system is just right, you may be siphoning fluid out slowly when under vacuum. This would cause it to drip slowly and pool up.

[Supernaut]

Originally Posted by RX SE7EN

If you have strong vacuum, and the plumbing of the system is just right, you may be siphoning fluid out slowly when under vacuum. This would cause it to drip slowly and pool up.

The vacuum would have to be incredibly strong to want draw liquid from the nozzle though. There are much easier ways for the system to reach equilibrium.

[Fendamonky]

If you look closely you can see that there are colored deposits on the screw heads of the butterflies as well. Though it does look like there is some pooling involved I don't think that is the extent of what is happening.

Honestly, why not just switch to WM50 (water/meth 50/50) and have it retuned. Don't even mess with the potential problems. A digital scale can be had online for like $30, the VP M1 is like $50 per 5 gallon from and distilled water is dirt cheap.

I'd say that $50 a year and a little extra effort is a fair trade for the peace of mind, KNOWING that your injectant is superior and nothing funky is going on in there.

[RETed]

Let me preface this reply by stating: I'm not an FD guy.

I have messed around with a few FD throttle bodies though...

If we're all talking about the big blue spot on the "bottom" of the throttle body, then I can only guess it's some weird dead area.
I believe there's a largish hole right in that area?
Don't quote me, but I think it's some bypass passage for idle control?
So the big blue spot is caused by excessive accumulation of the wiper fluid and / or not enough airflow to keep it off the "floor"?
I wonder if you've got the same kind of residue in the throttle body elbow that precedes the throttle body in the intake system?
It looks like the blue spot could not just be isolated to the throttle body?


-Ted