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NoDOHC · 08-08-2009, 09:47 AM

I found some issues...

First, the ignition toggle output pin had come out of the Haltech the last time I had the plug apart. This caused my rear rotor to receive all of the ignition for the trailing plugs (which made the car start hard, it kept kicking back on the starter).

At 38 degrees BTDC, the apex seal is just crossing the leading spark plug. Thus I had very poor ignition on my front rotor without the trailing plug firing.

I lost the ignition driver for the leading plugs on the Haltech (by a stupid testing procedure on my part) and this allowed me to discover this problem. Imagine my worry when the engine only ran on one rotor.

A compression check yielded 120 psi on both rotors (5,300 miles on rebuild) so I knew that it wasn't a mechanical failure.

After fixing the ignition toggle output, the car idles smoothly enough at 700 rpm that I think you could balance an egg on the intake manifold and it would stay there (or at least close).

I didn't show the curve that high, but I was at 110 WHp at 9,000 rpm (which is REALLY low) I think now that I was only running on one rotor by that point, the fuel in the other rotor was getting lit during the expansion stroke (So the wideband was none the wiser).

Unfortunately, the other issue I found was that I need a turbo clutch. My NA clutch was slipping during the last dyno run and after I got out on the road (and got intake air temps below 40C) it wouldn't hold at all at full throttle.

I finished it off trying to keep up to my friend in his hopped-up Duramax.

I could barely get the car to move by the time I got home from the dyno.

I will keep you posted when I get the chance to run again. I am hoping that I can make better power.

08-08-2009, 09:47 AM	#25
NoDOHC The quest for more torque Join Date: Sep 2008 Location: Sheboygan, Wisconsin Posts: 855 Rep Power: 17	I found some issues... First, the ignition toggle output pin had come out of the Haltech the last time I had the plug apart. This caused my rear rotor to receive all of the ignition for the trailing plugs (which made the car start hard, it kept kicking back on the starter). At 38 degrees BTDC, the apex seal is just crossing the leading spark plug. Thus I had very poor ignition on my front rotor without the trailing plug firing. I lost the ignition driver for the leading plugs on the Haltech (by a stupid testing procedure on my part) and this allowed me to discover this problem. Imagine my worry when the engine only ran on one rotor. A compression check yielded 120 psi on both rotors (5,300 miles on rebuild) so I knew that it wasn't a mechanical failure. After fixing the ignition toggle output, the car idles smoothly enough at 700 rpm that I think you could balance an egg on the intake manifold and it would stay there (or at least close). I didn't show the curve that high, but I was at 110 WHp at 9,000 rpm (which is REALLY low) I think now that I was only running on one rotor by that point, the fuel in the other rotor was getting lit during the expansion stroke (So the wideband was none the wiser). Unfortunately, the other issue I found was that I need a turbo clutch. My NA clutch was slipping during the last dyno run and after I got out on the road (and got intake air temps below 40C) it wouldn't hold at all at full throttle. I finished it off trying to keep up to my friend in his hopped-up Duramax. I could barely get the car to move by the time I got home from the dyno. I will keep you posted when I get the chance to run again. I am hoping that I can make better power. __________________ 1986 GXL ('87 4-port NA - Haltech E8, LS2 Coils. Defined Autoworks Headers, Dual 2.5" Exhaust (Dual Superflow, dBX mufflers) 1991 Coupe (KYB AGX Shocks, Eibach lowering springs, RB exhaust, Stock and Automatic)