Quote:
Originally Posted by Swif
What is the advantage to doing this?
Is this done to help clean up the engine bay?
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Here is Chuck Westbrook's post which explains the purpose:
"No, but you can greatly reduce all RFI.
Did you know that Mazda made another serious desgin flaw with their ignition wiring? It can be easily fixed and the result is hotter sparks even with stock ignition.
The ECU on the pasenger side, fires the ignitior on the driver side. OK we will accept this approximate 6' of wiring.
But instead of running the ignitor to coil wires directly to the coils which are about 18" away, they wired them back over to the chassis harness by the ECU, out to the harness that goes to the right front fender then over to the left front fender were it finally goes to the coills. That is about 14' of wiring.
Cut the ignitor output wires and run them directly to the coil harness which you disconnect from the chasis harness. "
It seems he originally explained the path of electricity wrong, it actually is as so:
"The Front harness starts at the ECU and wraps around the entire car, inputs the ignitor, then the "shielded" output travels back down the driver's side and connects to the Emissions harness (X-12), travels toward the block where another connector breaks out the IGnition harness."
But he was still 100% on track about Mazda's weak system wiring. The stock wiring is longer and has more connectors. This has more resistence than the modded wiring and makes it more vulnerable to EMF/RFI. Since the ignition fires very fast at high rpm's, we need as accurate a signal as possible.
Since I'm relocating my coils to under the steering shaft via Garfinkle's bracket, and also placing my HKS twin power down there, now is the best time to do this mod.