[TitaniumTT]

OK, I don't think there is really anything special about the way I go about it.

I like to replace all the seals and springs but if I don't, I spec them damn carefully. The last engine I built I actually spent more time playing musical seals and grinding very little off a few here and there than I spent clearancing all 12 new seals for this engine.

A good friend has a sharpening stone that is 220 on one side and 1000 on the other. So what I do is use the 220 side until the seal just barely fits in place, then I move over to the 1000 and grind until it clears the .05mm. If I can get the .08mm in there I move it around to a few different sides until it fits right. Had to do this twice on this motor. If the seal is free but the .05mm won't fit, there is the potential that you are at .049mm and a few strokes will put you out of range. You can always take more off but you can't put it back on so I always count my strokes and check every 7.

The cutting fluid I use is a dream. Cuts though the seals like nothing. So friken fast. Oh, I also buy 14 seals instead of 12. I broke one and the other is a backup now. So nect time I only need 13. but 13 is bad joo joo so I'll still get 14.



For anyone wondering about the 13B-RE housings. They are a PITA! The exhaust sleeves don't line up like the normal housings do, and there is an insert for the egr deal so it can't be tapped. I have a few shots of the port, the TII/REW sleeve, and the plug that I had to make. I was FURIOUS at this little bitch. I took some 3/8" plate that I had laying around and hand fit it to .550" round and then pounded it into the port. HOURS wasted with this. Why did I do this you ask? Well, the sleeve seems like it would allow a decent amount of exhaust gas to get out and up into the LIM heating it. Bad scenario. So now it's blocked off.

As for the ports, I spoke with Dave about these housings. He has seen no appreciable difference with the sleeves mis-alinged. I know, doesn't make sense, but his dyno doesn't lie. I was originally going to hock these housings and buy new REW housings. Now I'll save those gems for the next engine which will be even more beasty.







So, after the rotors are set and all the seals are in place, Apex seals and assit pieces glued, springs layed out, and everything has been cleaned and recleaned, and recleaned I start like this.



Then I spend a good deal of time putting hylomar on the housings. Being careful to make sure that it stays on the water side of the compression seal. Don't want that nastiness getting into the combustion chamber. Then one iron @ a time I put the vaseline on for the o-rings. I have a bunch of syringes that I use for epoxy work that make keeping the vaseline pretty neat.

So starting with the front plate on the stand the vaseline and o-ring's go in. Then the dowel pins lubbed with some oil. Then I squirt some oil on the main bearing, and where the side seals and oil control rings would rotate. I use normal mineral oil for this - in the old squirter. Then I saturate the housings with 2-stroke oil smearing it everywhere, in the new red plastic one. I do my cleaning with carb clean, so that takes all the oil out of the pores that are supposed to retain the oil. Then the rotor goes in, e-shaft and center plate. Pretty normal I think