If your plugs are wet and smell of fuel, they are getting fuel into the motor. How much or how little has yet to be determined.
We can go round and round but we NEED to start crossing things off the list.
First, I would make sure there are no electrical issues with the Rtek. I would double check everything electrical, sensors, injectors, etc etc etc. Make sure everything is square biscuits there.
After that I would make sure the timing is set correctly and there are no ignition comps advancing or retarding the timing. I set my timing and then tried to double check it once it first fired @ 5* ATDC and she almost immediately stalhed. Make sure the timing is firing ~ 0-5* BTDC while cranking. While dicking with the ignition system I would make certain that all the plugs are firing and that they are firing in the proper order.
Lastly, compression. If the motor is pysically incapable of running becuase of poor compression, all the horsing with the fuel system in the world won't make her run.
Basically I would make sure it can't be anything but the fuel system before messing around and trying to touble shoot it.
Anecdote - I had a 40 horse Merc that was running like crap. Usually it's the carbs. So I rebuilt the carb, cleaned it out and then reset everything to factory spec. The carb wasn't that dirty, but it wasn't clean. Thing still ran not very good.... interesting. So I checked the plugs. Fouled, but not horribly fouled. So I replaced them. Still not running the way she should. Now I'm getting pissed. Compression? Check that and it's great. Start troubleshooting some more and find that the spark is weak. Traced it back to corrosion inside the harness not giving the coils full volts. Had to replace the whole harness but she ran like a top. Actually just started the thing today for the first time this season. Not my boat BTW. Moral is, sometimes it's a bunch of little things adding up to make one big problem. So I would make certain that it's not a few little things - spark, compression, fuel - by checking that the ignition system and compression are tops before looking deeper into the fuel system
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-The Angry Stig-
DGRR 2009, 2011, 2012 & 2013 - Best FC
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2015 Audi S4 - Samantha - Zero Brap S4
2004 RX8 - Jocelyn - 196rwhp, 19mpg fuel to noise converter
2000 Jeep Cherokee Sport - Wifey mobile - Now with 2.5" OME lift and 30" BFG AT KO's! So it begins
1998 Jeep Cherokee - 5 spd, 4" lift, 33" BFG's - Rotary Tow Vehicle
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