Quote:
Originally Posted by RotaryResurrection
uhm, if you like your engine, you wont run stock ones. They leak and eventually bust. Sometimes they just bust right then and there for no reason. You dump out your oil supply in 30 seconds, and by the time you hear your buzzer go off, it is already too late.
I consider this right up there with a thermostat and pulsation damper replace/elimination, as high priority maintenance on an FC to prevent engine loss. It has nothing to do with hp, it has to do with reliability.
|
I guess the reliability thing is where I'm confused. I've heard of many oil cooler lines failing, but as far as I know they're all original lines. I have little faith in anything original still on my car after 23 years.
Quote:
Originally Posted by TitaniumTT
It's also a cost thing. I don't know the recent prices on lines but when I was replacing my blown factory ones, that like Kevin said almost cost me a motor, they were 2-3x the price of the stainless ones through the dealer.
|
I would never buy the Mazda lines. Going to a local hydraulic shop would probably run ~$50. I guess I'm just not seeing the point of paying $130 when the stock lines easily last 15 years.
However, if someone (especially a builder) chimes in with experience that the stock lines tend to fail sooner than that, I'll definitely be open to listening.
__________________
1986 Sport: 132k miles, 5A (Sapphire Blue Metallic), Tokico Blues, Racing Beat Springs, Custom LED tailights (only S4 LED tails in the world), SSR Mark II, Racing Beat exhaust, S5 black interior, Rotary Resurrection rebuild at 120k miles
Community Service Manual
RotorWiki
"Imagination costs nothing; we could build square locomotives or fly to Mars" - Felix Wankel
Yesterday is history, tomorrow is a mystery, but today is a gift. That is why it is called the "present."
|