Quote:
Originally Posted by AwakenNoMore
Sound awesome, how about instructions? Isn't there a write-up somewhere?
|
I haven't been on here in a while since I thought it was a lost cause selling these on here.
The kit includes detailed instructions and a very specific list of required and recommended tools.
Here they are:
S4 Oil Metering Pump Rebuild Instructions
Included in kit:
- 2 viton end cover seals
- 1 viton arm shaft seal
- 1 viton pump drive seal
- 1 OMP to front cover seal
Exploded View:
http://www.rx7club.com/attachment.ph...0&d=1164547073
Recommended Tools:
- 10mm combination wrench
- 10mm socket (preferably 1/4" drive with several extensions and swivel joint)
- #1 phillips head screwdriver (#2 may work but has possibility of stripping head)
- propane torch or equivalent (NOT oxy-acetalene)
- teflon tape or any other thin tape (will not be used for sealing)
- razor and scribe/ small pick
- spray solvent (brakleen, carb/pcv cleaner)
1. Remove oil metering pump:
- Remove engine undertray using 10mm socket and extension.
- Clean pump and surrounding area with spray solvent such as brakleen in the red can.
- Straighten, then remove the retaining pin from the control rod on the OMP. Be careful not to lose the washers or the pin.
- Unbolt pump line fittings (4) with 10 mm wrench. Start with the two front ones, then the rear two. Be careful not to break the lines while taking of adjacent line fittings, as they are brittle from age. Do not lose the copper crush washers or the backing plate crush washer.
- Unbolt the pump from the front engine cover (2 bolts) using 10 mm socket and extensions. Remove the top bolt, then the lower bolt. A swivel/universal joint will probably be necessary for the top bolt, which is behind the lower radiator hose.
- Remove pump and clean with brakleen. Try not to get dirt in any openings. If you do, spray it out.
2. Remove covers and install o-rings
- Note the position of the spring and arm on the side of the OMP. This is important. Take a picture or make a detailed drawing, as it is hard to explain accurately.
- Unbolt the arm (10 mm wrench), clean the arm, spring, and shield, then set aside.
- Unscrew the end cover closest to the arm (two phillips screws). This will have a tab welded to the inside and only goes on one way (aka you can't mess up installation).
- Remove the arm shaft. You may have to twist the shaft back and forth and push in the piston that is behind the shaft.
- Cut the original o-ring with a razor and remove. Wrap the threads on the arm in the tape to protect the new o-ring from being torn on the sharp threads. Slide the new o-ring (smallest size and thick)) over the taped threads and slip into the groove. A little oil helps. Remove tape. ***The o-ring will feel slightly loose on the shaft. This is normal.***
- Re-install shaft.
- Remove original end plate o-ring (diamond shaped) from the end of the pump and ensure groove is clean. Install new end plate o-ring, making sure it stays seated in the groove.
- Place end plate on in the correct position and tighten screws.
- The other end plate seal is similar, but without the welded tab and arm shaft.
- Remove the drive shaft from the inside face of the pump and surrounding aluminum disc and clean. Cut out old o-ring with razor, then replace with the medium sized o-ring.
- Re-install shaft and surrounding disc.
- Put shield back over the control arm. Put the spring back on the pump, with the large hook towards the pump body and resting on bump on the pump body.
- While putting the arm back on, hook the small spring hook on the part of the arm that the rod attaches to. Pre-load the spring so that the arm will return. Re-install and tighten the nut and lock washer while stopping the arm from rotating. Make sure the spring was not pinched between the arm and pump during tightening. The arm should move freely and return by itself.
3. Re-anneal crush washers
- Using the propane torch, heat each washer until it glows a dull red color, then let it cool. Do not heat past dull red hot or the washer will melt. Repeat for the backing plate crush washer. This makes the copper soft again. It will not seal if you do not re-anneal the washers. The copper seals should now bend easily with your fingers, but only bend one slightly to test softness.
4. Installation is the reverse of removal. Remember to install the new OMP to front cover o-ring.