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rx4ur7 · 03-31-2009, 01:23 PM

If you have 12k or over 12months, they probably will not cover it. Depends on your dealer. I have not been impressed with remans since early 90's. Quality just doesn't seem to be the way it once was. I will not warrenty the labor for them any longer. Seems they have too often been 12month motors. I am waiting to hear on what the Mazda Renesis remans are doing. This I am hard pressed to say because I am confirmed factory guy and Mazda had always been know for it's quality.

Back to original post:

Neither one is a fun job in the car. To me it’s 50/50. David is correct about original install eccentric shaft bolt. Max torque is 270N-m/28kg-m/200ft-lb. But I would like to meet the gorilla in the factory using the torque wrench. I have to borrow a 1in impact to get them off when out of the car. Since this a reman it shouldn't be too bad. You may be able to use the breaker bar against frame rail trick. see below.

On original factory motors I have been able to break them loose in the car with a six foot pipe on a breaker bar. Also have broken more that one breaker bar and socket or adaptor. Snap-on carries them in stock for me now. Much easier out of the car with the impact and flywheel lock. 1st and 2nd gens I was able to use a breaker bar have it set so that it is a couple of inches from the LS frame rail and hit the starter, couple of tries broke it loose. Disable ignition of course.

I have never had a problem with the mazda oem gasket on any of my client street cars motors that I have done. Trick is clean surface and torque on front cover bolts. I don’t use any extra sealant either. Not saying anything against metal.

AC compressor, helps if you have small hands. And don’t tighten one bolt until you get all four started.

I would say though that after you change it you will probably have a pan leak. So be prepared to go after that soon.

As stated above, be very careful about the keyway and the back thrust bearing. If the keyway comes out with the damper the bearing will have dropped. Best way I have found is to keep the key pushed in as you carefully remove the damper.

If this motor has a lot of miles on it you may want to think rebuild. This could just be the tip of the iceberg and it will be plaguing you with a lot of little (that’s a misnomer on this model) things. Nickel and dime on these is 500/1000. I don’t like charging double labor if I don’t have to. I have found that the FD can have a lot of sleeping dogs. But if you like working on it and like a lot of frustration more power to you. Just take your time and don’t try to cut corners or rush anything.

03-31-2009, 01:23 PM	#20
rx4ur7 Rotary since 1972 Join Date: Nov 2008 Location: Tucson Posts: 231 Rep Power: 17	If you have 12k or over 12months, they probably will not cover it. Depends on your dealer. I have not been impressed with remans since early 90's. Quality just doesn't seem to be the way it once was. I will not warrenty the labor for them any longer. Seems they have too often been 12month motors. I am waiting to hear on what the Mazda Renesis remans are doing. This I am hard pressed to say because I am confirmed factory guy and Mazda had always been know for it's quality. Back to original post: Neither one is a fun job in the car. To me it’s 50/50. David is correct about original install eccentric shaft bolt. Max torque is 270N-m/28kg-m/200ft-lb. But I would like to meet the gorilla in the factory using the torque wrench. I have to borrow a 1in impact to get them off when out of the car. Since this a reman it shouldn't be too bad. You may be able to use the breaker bar against frame rail trick. see below. On original factory motors I have been able to break them loose in the car with a six foot pipe on a breaker bar. Also have broken more that one breaker bar and socket or adaptor. Snap-on carries them in stock for me now. Much easier out of the car with the impact and flywheel lock. 1st and 2nd gens I was able to use a breaker bar have it set so that it is a couple of inches from the LS frame rail and hit the starter, couple of tries broke it loose. Disable ignition of course. I have never had a problem with the mazda oem gasket on any of my client street cars motors that I have done. Trick is clean surface and torque on front cover bolts. I don’t use any extra sealant either. Not saying anything against metal. AC compressor, helps if you have small hands. And don’t tighten one bolt until you get all four started. I would say though that after you change it you will probably have a pan leak. So be prepared to go after that soon. As stated above, be very careful about the keyway and the back thrust bearing. If the keyway comes out with the damper the bearing will have dropped. Best way I have found is to keep the key pushed in as you carefully remove the damper. If this motor has a lot of miles on it you may want to think rebuild. This could just be the tip of the iceberg and it will be plaguing you with a lot of little (that’s a misnomer on this model) things. Nickel and dime on these is 500/1000. I don’t like charging double labor if I don’t have to. I have found that the FD can have a lot of sleeping dogs. But if you like working on it and like a lot of frustration more power to you. Just take your time and don’t try to cut corners or rush anything. Last edited by rx4ur7; 03-31-2009 at 01:38 PM.