Now for the bracket installation. There are two ways to install it. One would put the caliper forward of the spindle, the other behind. Behind required the use the of the roll center blocks, else it will contact the steering arm. I opted for forward of the spindle since i did not have said piece. Also the welded on threaded parts should be facing the rotor. Else the spacers really wont make too much sense. In the picture below this is how the bracket more or less should look. But you can see that i have it wrong with the welded pieces facing in towards the engine...
To attach the bracket the original 14mm bolts from your FB will be used.
Now the rest is generally easy. Attach the hubs. Grease everything properly. If your bearings are worn, now is the best time to replace them. From here the rotor can go on. Finally Attach the calipers. The gold spacer will be used at the top. I had some clearancing issues with my kit that was an abnormality but was resolved by just changing the spacers around to clear. Once the caliper is attached you can add your pads, springs etc. I would recommend the use of caliper lube on the two pins to ensure they move properly and do not seize.
Below is the setup completed.
Next is the brakes lines. There are several options to work with. You could use the 2nd gen two piece lines, and make a new hard line portion, buy the better fitting RE Speed ones or use the FB ones with some extra bends. I had a stainless FB line from Russell already in use, so i reused them. Came out fine without much work. Finally bled the brakes out.
End results? Well i can't drive the car yet BUT the brake pedal feel is OUTSTANDING!!!!\
Now for your wheels, stock FC wheels will not clear!!! You need about a 1" spacer for that to work. You will also need a 15" rim to clear the calipers. I am going to use a set of 0 offset 15x8.5 wheels i have once i get tires on. Clears by a lot, but will need fender flares.
