[TitaniumTT]

Originally Posted by CLH

Not to get off of the alignment question, but why run so much tire size stagger? If you want the car to turn better more rubber up front is a good start ;-)

The wheels are staggered by an inch, and I want to keep the same tire width to wheel width.

Originally Posted by CLH

With the Stance coilovers and the right offset you should be able to fit a 245/40-17 up front. I can fit a 245/40-17 Ecsta MX on a 17x8 wheel up front on my '89 with the Stance setup. The Falkens or Nittos can't be that much wider in cross-section than the Kumhos (if wider at all).

Just sayin...

Edit: Just realized that there's no such thing as a 245/40-17 RT-615 or NT-01

Exactely, the next size up is a 255 which will be a HUGE stretch to get on an 9" rim, in fact I don't even think the manufactures reccomend it. Next year I'm going to more than likely order a set of SSR's or Works in the "proper" size. 17x8.5 +30 and 17x9.5 +40 (I believe) and run a 255/275 stagger.

Originally Posted by SPICcnmFD

I'd go zero toe(F & R) since you street drive it primarily. Toe out makes it twitchy, especially under hard breaking, not worth the crisper turn-in IMO on a mostly street driven vehicle.

Thank you. The roads around here blow, especially the highway in some areas. With SLIGHT toe-in, I could almost let go of the wheel and let the car track itself up and down miles of interstate. O I think I'm going to try 0 toe to start.

Originally Posted by SPICcnmFD

I'd go with 1.5* negative camber front and rear to start with. It's going to eat the insides off on the street the more you put into it(well take out). The only real way to tell is set it and drive it and measure the tire temps and wear.

I'v got grease pencils, Hsa the price of thero-probes come down reasonably?

Originally Posted by josh18_2k

ok heres my recommendation. stick with your original tire size (235,255). anything wider up front is really pushing your clearance, unless you wanna run spacers and roll fenders.

No spacers, rather buy different wheels. Can't really roll the front drivers fender either.

Originally Posted by josh18_2k

Direzza Z1 Star Specs are the new hot shit around town. I don't know how their pricing compares with Azenis, but if they're close enough, go Z1's. They are much better in wet, and slightly better in dry. Wet performance is worth choosing them.

From Discounttiredirect.com

Azenis = $124/$141 = $530
Direzza = $150/$173 = $646
NT-01 = $163/$178 = $682

This car will never see the rain unless I get caught in a storm on a road trip. For the last 5 years, I haven't even had wipers on it and I closed up the nostril looking washerspryaers on the hood when I painted.

Is the dry performance really better than the Azenis though? Looks like the Azenis puts down more rubber.

Originally Posted by josh18_2k

alignment- no more than 1.5 camber in back, and at least 2.5 in front. the front needs camber to work right! my plates max at 2.5, and i need more to maximize the tire. dont worry about tire wear. drive harder if you want them to wear evenly lol
and yah, zero toe all around. with your offsets the car should be stable enough.

Excellent, thanks so much. I believe my plates max @ 3*, so hopefully if I need more than the 2.5*, I can get a little more.

Originally Posted by SPICcnmFD

That's what I have on my FD and it's wears tires evenly when driving hard. On the street it eats the front insides pretty quick, which is why I suggested less up front. I'd do stock Caster setting FWIW, but that's just me.

I can only do stock caster unless I notch the tower or change the plates. Maybe the thing to do is just quick camber changes. run 1.5* on the street and bump it up on race day. Shouldn't take too long and tools will be there. The plates are marked so as long as we verify that the plates are correct while aligning it, it should be easy enough.