Quote:
Originally Posted by Rogue_Wulff
Again, all of these are my opinions, based on a street driven car. A car that will only see track use is totally different. My buddy has a track-only FB, and it has all of the listed mods.
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Wow......I need to set you up with the password to the ReSpeed technical email address.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Low Impedance
Aside from that would just getting a good poly bushing set as opposed to the spherical bearings stuffs be a good idea? Should i guess that the low control arm kit (the replacement rod end piece) is basically not worth while either?
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All very good advice above. To get a bit deeper in depth on the rates: The spring rates can not be to high or the shocks will not control them. The standard off the shelf shocks sold for the first gen are good for about 350# up front. You really do not need rates higher than that. We have tried all the way up to 500# on the front and settle on 375#-425# with the use of custom valved Bilstien inserts for the IT car.
Metal to metal pivot points (As in Spherical) are harsh for the street. The major down side is the dirt and grime. They need to be kept very clean or the grime starts to score the metal. Once that starts you have slop in the sphericals. Once you have slop they get louder and sloppier. Best to stick with poly for the street.
Our delrin stay rods are great for the street.
Roll center blocks go between the steering arm and the strut housing. They basically move the outer pivot point (Ball Joint) down the compensate for the inner pivot (LCA to crossmember) being moved down during lowering.
Spring length standards are 8" for the race kit and 7" for the street kit.
-billy