Another update on the A/C project, this weekend I got the following done:
- Pulled the evaporator, flushed & cleaned it out
- Pulled the condenser, flushed & cleaned it out
- Removed all the hard lines & hoses, flushed & cleaned those out.
- Bench lubed the new compressor and installed it on the car
- Installed the new receiver/dryer and new expansion valve, which is within the evaporator box. Amazing how many dead spiders and assorted desiccated bug carcasses I found in there
- Reinstalled the now clean & dry condenser, evaporator and all hard/soft lines with all new O-rings.
For flushing everything, I picked up this flush tool that you partially fill with solvent and hook up to your air compressor:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Worked like a champ, although the rubber tip on the nozzle was a bit too big to fit some of the smaller hard lines I had to flush. Fortunately, I was able to improvise with other blow gun tips I had in the shop. For solvent, I used this stuff:
https://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/...s-11/7060432-P
It worked well, and since it's a citrus based solvent, the garage smelled like oranges afterwards
Only downside is that it took a LOT of shop air to blow the evaporator & condenser completely dry.
Other tidbits:
If you're using the ND compressor, you'll need to salvage the suction/pressure pipe manifolds from your old compressor, as the new/rebuilt one probably won't include those parts (mine didn't). Removing those can also be a PITA - one of the 4 socket head (allen) bolts on mine was seized to the compressor and it had to be drilled out. Fortunately it was a common size (M8-1.25 x 20mm long) socket head bolt that I could get locally. Can't use a hex head because the hex won't clear the recess in the manifolds. I got 4 new stainless bolts, and used some anti-seize lube on the threads in case I ever have to remove them again.
If you're switching from R12 to either R134 or R152A like I am, in addition to flushing the rest of the system, you'll need to make sure your new/rebuilt compressor doesn't have much/any mineral oil left in it, as you'll be switching to Ester lube to be compatible with R134/R152A. Ester lube is compatible with mineral, so it's OK if you don't get 100% of the mineral oil out. Just don't use PAG oil - bad things will happen if PAG mixes with even trace amounts of mineral oil. According to the instructions that came with my compressor, it was shipped "dry" with just some mineral oil assembly lube left in. What you need to do in that case is "bench flush" & lube the compressor. First support it upside down so the open ports drain into a pan. That removes most of the mineral oil assembly lube. Then flip it right side up, and add about 60~100 cc's of new Ester lube into the inlet (suction side) ports. Turn the compressor clockwise by hand about 10x to work the lube thru it, then flip it over to drain it out. Repeat this process about 2~3x until there is nothing but clean Ester lube comes out. Let it drain until dry on the last pass - this will take a long time. Then you'll then add your final 60~100 cc of Ester lube (for ND compressor, per FSM) and rotate it clockwise by hand a few times before putting the manifolds & new O-rings back on it, and mounting the compressor in the engine bay. Cap the compressor ports to prevent any crap from getting in before you close up the system.
Next step will be getting a vacuum pump to evacuate the system & check for leaks. Assuming no leaks to fix, it's on to charging it with R152A.