Quote:
Originally Posted by FC Zach
Most parts stores have the ability to bench test alternators, whether or not this test can be done with your application, I don't know but it's worth a shot.
My guess is the regulator but I'm not familiar with the first gens and their parts.
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I'm leaning toward the regulator as well. I just wish I knew how to test it. I mean, they really aren't expensive to replace. RockAuto has an option for less than $10 although the OEM piece is $100. Even replacement alternators are in the $20-30 range after returning the core. I still can't explain how something that was working a week ago suddenly breaks during transport.
Quote:
Originally Posted by t_g_farrell
The SAs have the tach signal on the leading because the stock ignition disables trailing on
certain conditions. Your car looks fairly stock so I would say it probably works this way.
I bet your alternator is just weak. I've seen the dash lights stay on like that if the voltage
is not good sometimes. Have you checked the battery cables yet? They may be original and
falling apart internally.
You're having fun now! I'm jelly. I'll take a look at my haynes manual to see if it has any
extra words on dealing with the regulator.
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Thanks. I found a thread on the other forum where someone was describing my condition of the voltmeter never switching over to the alternator. In that thread this, along with the other warning lights, was attributed to a bad voltage regulator.
My battery is only outputting around 12V as it stands so I may just throw it on a charger to see if that helps any. When the car is off I'm getting the same voltage at the alternator terminal as I am across the battery posts so I don't think it's the wiring.