you asked about losing compression. At the tips of the rotor you have "apex seals," and on the side of the rotor you have "side seals." Together they seal off the combustion section and if any of those fail then you lose compression. It's mainly to avoid spending more money on the car if the motor is dead or dying.
Also note that if your motor is flooded it can give loss of compression symptoms.
Once you've established a healthy motor you can start the deflooding procedure:
You have an 88 so it's a Series 4.
1. You'll need to remove the EGI. INJ fuse in front of the driver's side strut tower/wheel well.
2. get back in the car and crank for 10 seconds. Put the fuse back in place and turn the car on. DO NOT APPLY ANY GAS WHILE DEFLOODING. If the car doesn't crank then try up to 2 more times. If the car does not start after the third attempt then move on.
3. Remove sparkplugs and make sure they are still in good shape (same piston engine rules apply). Replace if necessary.
This is as far as I've needed to go to de-flood my car. I'm sure others will chime in with further help if it's necessary.
Good luck.
Leaky, old injectors can cause flooding, not letting the car warm up before turning it on can cause it to flood also so look into these if it's a recurring problem.
__________________
Quote:
Originally Posted by Monkman33
But I've learned that people that don't like guns, tend to like stretched tires.
Which makes perfect sense. They are sacrificing safety either way. lol
|
Last edited by Phoenix7; 07-01-2008 at 12:44 AM.
|