Quote:
Originally Posted by TitaniumTT
What ECU are you running?
Fucking that.....
When I saw the vid.... it's extremely hard to hear over a cell phone vid, then uploaded, then through my shitty laptop speakers, but I heard the timing fucking up.... could be totally wrong because I'm not actually there.... but that's what I heard....
Fucking PFC's..... I tuned that exact setup and had to lower the fuel pressure in order to raise the duty cycle of the primaries to get it to work kinda sorta right.....
Seen that many times actually... the air gap can fuck things up pretty well. Even a slight bend in the factory trigger wheel will fuck it all up.
Something else I saw on a PFC equipped shitbox was a single pin, the Ne signal, on the ecu got twisted. So when the connector was inserted the female socket on the connector got bent and really weak. Scoped it from the backside of the connector and everything looked fine so I kept on troubleshooting the bitch.... took a while to figure that one out and it was actually Dave that found it. Car would run fine until about 4k on the dyno then it would just start to skip and miss and not go past that point. So while the sensors were reporting correctly, the connection to the ECU was fragged and thus the ecu not seeing what it needed to...
If all else fails....
That is way to fat. I tend to idle the PFC cars between .85-.88L (12.5-13)... my personal car is around .88-.91(13-13.4) depending on temp. So if you're idling at that fat @ .75L it could be dropping way below .7 or even .66L and just blowing the spark out. This will read a false lean on the wideband.
What ignition system are you running, dwell time, what plugs, have you pulled the plugs?
I think you're on the right track with the signal dropping out, or not being setup properly in the ECU.....
I would check it again and pull the wheel off and make sure that it's straight and true... I had a bent wheel that was doing all sorts of fucked up shit...
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Ecu is the link that rice had in the SP
The video you saw was really dumpy and not even running on 2 rotors. Did some fixing up and now at least both rotors are firing. This is a better vid:
Still will be iphone quality though lol
I'll check the wheel to make sure but I can't see there bein an issue there. It was pulled working fine and sat flat on a shelf for a year an a half. To check it what do I do just lay it on a flat surface or what?
I have no knowledge whatsoever of tuning. I just see the crosshairs on the PC interface for the ecu in a certain target AFR cell an cross reference that with my wideband.. They are right around the same? At that point I assume it's all okay but I guess that isn't really a good assumption.
Ignition is just the HKS unit and newer FD coils. Plugs are just the bur9eqp for now until the engine is broken in
I've pulled them a few times - what specifically did you want to know?
To check the crank signal pins are intact I should just pull them out?
Now that I think about it one thin I should have done is hook the ecu up to a computer just to see if it's actually cutting fuel or ignition. Kind of hard to tell what's going on when the only thing you know is that it doesn't run