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Originally Posted by TitaniumTT
It can be done on a bone stock block with different apex seals (although not necessary - XLR8) and a PFC.
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THAT ain't gunna happen, lol. Keeping the PFC in there to have everything done for DGRR instead of holding off and doing the break-in once I had a better ECU probably has as much to do with the engine loss as does the loosened oil fitting (because a better computer would have caught the dropping oil pressure and taken appropriate actions).
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Originally Posted by Brian
Ok.... here's what I would do If I were you..... take it as you will....
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You're preaching to the choir here bro
I'm already planning on bringing the car up your way and (hopefully) getting back up there to help/learn as much as I can. I thought I had alluded to that in my tone (referencing how much you'd want for labor and such) if not by blatantly agreeing that it would be the smarter choice over the phone
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Originally Posted by Brian
Wait a few weeks until I get the IGN and D585 coils on the dyno, pick which one I say, and buy the coils, about $75/ea regardless of model.
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Yeah, I saw you had mentioned that elsewhere... I'm open to suggestions
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Originally Posted by Brian
Do not need
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Agreed. Need = no. Want = hell yeah!!
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Originally Posted by Brian
All of that, plus new Apex seals... give me the old ones  |
Ha! Not gunna happen
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Originally Posted by Brian
Harness.... here's what's probably going to happen. relocate the battery? Get rid of that click click click start FD bullshit... all of that.
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Yup, I already have a battery as well (I picked it up for Jacks 8, but the terminals were on the wrong side so I kept it for the FD relocation).
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Originally Posted by Brian
I'm telling you, it's going to be cheaper and easier by MONTHS if you just bring me the car, and 30 hours of labor later, pick it up to drive away and break it in.
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Already my plan, I just don't want to move on it until I have the money in my hand to pay for what will be done up front. I'm not trying to burn a friendship over some car work. That's one of the main reasons I said I'm gunna shelf the project for a while, so that I can cover all the costs up front.
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Originally Posted by Brian
It's the cheapest way to do it and not for nothing, and I'm sorry if I sound like a dick here, this is me helping you, seriously, I'm not being a dick I've just seen this too many times in the past TOO MANY TIMES ... if you've never done wiring like this in the past, wired a car up like this, or built a harness like this before, it's going to get fucked up.
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Agreed. I'm smart enough to know what's above my head, and I'm honest enough to admit it
Wiring is PFM mixed with Faggotry and Voodoo for me right now, if I can make it up to help you on it and figure out how it works then maybe I'll try to start on smaller solo projects.
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Originally Posted by Brian
I've done this MANY times. If you still want to do it, I'll draw up a schematic based off of the LR datasheet and then you can attempt it.
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I'm down with you doing it, I think the additional cost in labor is outweighed by the unspent cost in specialized tools (that I'll use once) and the high probability of fuck ups due to newb. Still though, I'd love to get as educated by this task as possible in the process..
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I don't like that display at all. I would do one of the new AIM's for like $1000 or whatever they are.
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I'm thinking the Toucan or this guys:
http://www.autosportinternational.co...libEntryID=341
I'm not current on the new AIMs, but from what I've seen they all sorta replace the cluster, not really looking for that.
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Originally Posted by Brian
I think the problem is the LR.... had you kept the PFC that's like $6-7k that could've been diverted.
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Worse comes to worse I could always just buy another PFC, but I'd rather avoid putting that thing back in my car at ALL possible costs..