View Single Post
Old 02-04-2014, 03:48 AM   #11
TitaniumTT
Test Whore - Admin
 
TitaniumTT's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Right Behind you son
Posts: 4,581
Rep Power: 10
TitaniumTT will become famous soon enough
Quote:
Originally Posted by JhnRX7 View Post
So my FD is down for the winter and its time for some long overdue motor work. The last time the current motor was out of the car was in 2004. I have not put a ton of miles on the motor (maybe 35k), but they have been hard miles. I had been having smoking issues over the past year so I finally decided to pull it and tear it down.

Seeing as I built this motor when I was 17, there were quite a few things I would have done different had I known better. It appears that I had ported slightly into the oil control ring causing the front oil control rings to wear well past spec. I believe that, combined with using the original (now 120k mile) metal control rings ultimately led to the smoking.

There were other issues I found while I was in there, chattering from the 3mm seals, a dented rotor, and poor side seal clearance on the rear rotor just to name a few. The rusty coolant passages were from years ago when I lived in FL I made the mistake of running the system with little to no coolant.

See the blow by here… this explains why my catch can was filling with fuel!

I have cleaned everything and stacked the parts away on a shelf until I decide what to do. I want to start over with a 2mm motor, and polished stock ports. For now, I am focusing on other projects.
That's pretty good considering the type of miles that your car has seen. What so you think caused the chattering? Hurley, 3mm or what are you using for oil injection? Straight stock or premix in the tank as well?

What are you going to be running for seals in the new motor?

I like stock ports.... they have their place depending on application. The 'vert engine I built was originally supposed to be just a stock engine with a stock turbo making 270rwhp. I didn't change the port timing at all, just cleaned everything up significantly and spent some time in the bowls.

I've since changed my mind and will be doing WM injection, building a mani for it, running either a TO4 something or a BW S360. New power goal is 450. All I'm going to do is crack the keg open and replace the Apex seals... that's it.

Quote:
Originally Posted by JhnRX7 View Post
…other project such as a redesigned, overbuilt fuel system!

This past weekend Mr. Ambrosio (RENESISFD a.k.a "Hard Line Master") came down to lend a hand in bending and flaring hard lines for the entire car. I used 3/8" 316L Stainless along with an assortment of tube nuts and fittings. With John's assistance and his fancy hydraulic flaring tool we were able to complete all the motor lines as well as the under car lines.

VERY sexy...

Quote:
Originally Posted by JhnRX7 View Post
Injectors will be ID1000 primary, ID 2000 Secondary. Seeing as E85 requires 30% more fuel I upped the stock 5/16" lines to 3/8" which should be plenty for my goals. I maintained the original in series fuel routing. The primary to secondary hard line is my favorite. It fits within a groove in the water pump with thousands of an inch to spare on all sides!



Very sexy indeed.... my only concern would be heating of the SS line in that area being that close to the WP housing. But then again, with the amount of fuel flowing through it, I don't think it will be that much of a problem.....

Quote:
Originally Posted by JhnRX7 View Post
We replicated the OEM under car lines which was not an easy task. 13 bends in each line and if any one was off the whole thing would not fit! I am no longer running a purge control valve so the charcoal canister will vent at the rear of the car. Luckily, the 3/8" lines were able to fit in the OEM clips and everything bolts up exactly as stock



I picked up the newest 2013 GM flex fuel sensor. This sensor is also made by continental like the others however it is smaller and has improved electronics. "Outputs ethanol concentration and fuel temperature within 250ms after start-up" as opposed by 500ms with the older sensor… not sure how much that matters, but I like that it is smaller.

Been there, done that, more than a few times.... I get quicker each time, but I like it less each time as well

Quote:
Originally Posted by JhnRX7 View Post
I have yet to determine what I am going to do between the under car lines and the fuel pump. I need to figure out a fuel filter solution first. I plan on running the AEM 320lph E85 pump in tank.
are you going to run any type if surge tank or anything of that nature given how much you track the car?
__________________
-The Angry Stig-
DGRR 2009, 2011, 2012 & 2013 - Best FC

DEALS GAP!! WOOHOOOO!!!!!

2015 Audi S4 - Samantha - Zero Brap S4
2004 RX8 - Jocelyn - 196rwhp, 19mpg fuel to noise converter
2000 Jeep Cherokee Sport - Wifey mobile - Now with 2.5" OME lift and 30" BFG AT KO's! So it begins
1998 Jeep Cherokee - 5 spd, 4" lift, 33" BFG's - Rotary Tow Vehicle
1988 'Vert - In progress
1988 FC Coupe - Gretchen -The attention whore BEAST!


I'm a sick individual, what's wrong with you?
I'm pure Evil
I'm still insane, in the best possible way.
I think Brian's idea of romance is using lube.
Your rage caused the meteor strike in Russia. The Antichrist would be proud of his minion.
You win with your thread. Most everything
It's a truck with a steel gate on the back. Just a statement of fact

Motec M820, AIM dash, ported 13B-RE Cosmo, 6-spd trans, 4.3 Torsen, custom twin wg fully divided mani, Custom 4" split into 2x 3" exhaust, Custom HMIC, Custom custom custom custom I like to welder stuff....
No Bolt-ons allowed. Dyno'ed @ Speed1 Tuned by me - 405rwhp on WG.... WM50 cuming soon.
-Angry Motherf*cker Mode ENGAGED-
TitaniumTT is offline   Reply With Quote