[TitaniumTT]

Originally Posted by 85turbo12a

[IMG]http://sphotos-a.xx.

a carefull look that i obviously failed to give it when i installed it will reveal the problem as i am seeing it, the car/trans are near as makes no difference level, and the rear is jacked up to all but ride height minus maybe 3/4" that the springs would let me get without lifting the car, this is an unaltered as ordered, bolt in grannies 8.8 rear end, and as i am seeing it, and the digi protractor i borrowed yesterday told me, the pinion is like 4 degrees UP instead of 1-3 degrees DOWN, it is as far as i can tell, totally wrong. and lowering the transmission for the 1uz install exacerbated the problem to the point it was noticed immediately

Looking at that and one of the FB's we haev on the lift, it looks like it's pointing in the right direction, just too much in that direction. I know on the FC it was pointing up slightly to be almost in line with the angle of the transmission, both of which were offset to get the needed rotation on the u-joints. It was a royal PITA for me, and what I ended up doing was putting the stock TII trans in there minus the tailshaft housing and putting a digital leve on the output shaft and then getting a measurement on the flange of the diff, IIRC they were withen 1* of each other, the offset came with the engine/trans and the diff itself not being in line....

My problem was made MUCH worse by the Banzai engine mounts to get the 13B-RE Cosmo block in there..... my thought at the time was, well, Chris I'm sure did all the math and made sure everything was proper to get the proper angles.... how wrong I was.... I know this for FACT because I built a steel "pallet" that I could bolt the Cosmo to with his mounts, sans the rubber engine mounts.... Then I needed to transport a stock S4 with stock mounts on it.... they weren't even close to lining up. Built my own pass side mount to rememdy the problem, then the drivers side mount broke

Originally Posted by 2gslse

I'm sure its fixable in the long run but would it help any if you either extended the lower links a little or shortened the upper links to rotate the axle? I know you cant go far without modifying the spring perch,sway bar mounts, body/wheel contact but it may be an option.

is your trans and rear parallel to each other left to right? or a slight offset to allow the u-joints to rotate? I asked about my car since the drivetrain is slightly offset left to right and was told about vibrations from u-joints if I remember correctly( go look at it Brian. look at the motor mount to x-member)

All rotaries are offset, except the renni, that bitch is in there pretty damn straight.

[QUOTE=85turbo12a;233042]

Originally Posted by GySgtFrank

Their rear ends are probably setup to be used with their mounts. Which does you no good since you're a nonconformist.

im pretty sure that the pinion angle is just outright wrong, sotck driveline or not, there is no way it needs to point 4 degrees north in this chassis for any reason, conformist or not i think it was borderline functional before and now it is intolerant



im working on that plan tonight once my help arrives to wrestle everything around, and yes, the control arms are an option, although the uppers are quite difficult to shorten, since that will also change location centers on them due to being angled, i can fudge a small amount and let the bushing take the flex, but not a lot, and the lowers can only rotate so far for stated reasons, but i can cut stuff off and move it just as easy, its just aggravating to have to do so. i will be obtaining the hard data on what is there and what needs to be there tonight, but if anyone has the STOCK information and reference points to determine factor pinion angle i would be more appreciative, i might be able to find it via google but i dont have to time to spend hours forum fishing

stay tuned for the next adventure of frankenseven the unlucky...

As I said before.... we've got a stock FB on the lift now without a driveshaft on it, what measurements do you need?