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Old 06-21-2012, 12:12 PM   #43
infernosg
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Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: Richmond, VA
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All the fuel lines are done and are capable of holding 120+ psi. I also finished the passenger's side of the engine harness. The TPS wiring isn't the prettiest but I don't think a little contact with the water temperature sensor is going to hurt it.



I've also removed all of the vacuum hardlines from the firewall. I figured I could probably run new vacuum lines a little cleaner with my custom setup and it fits in with my "remove everything" theme for the engine bay. The brass fittings are from Summit, the aluminum vacuum "manifold" is from McMaster, and all the silicone hose is sourced from SiliconeIntakes. I'm pretty sure the total cost for all that was less than one new vacuum block from Vibrant.



I would have preferred the vacuum block be more toward the passenger side but this was the easiest mounting point with existing holes. Don't worry, I will be installed a one-way check valve between the vacuum block and the brake booster, not like it'll see positive pressure anyway.

I also put in my order for one of Defined Autoworks headers. They did my intake and my porting so why stop there?

I've been thinking about ducting lately. I had always planned on ducting from the front bumper to the radiator and oil cooler but I was only going to have an e-fan (shrouded) on the backside. Now I'm thinking I might try to do some kind of hood duct exit system since I have all this new found space in front of the engine. Would it be better the duct the entire radiator surface area out the hood and just strap the e-fan on the back or still shroud the e-fan and run the duct from that shroud? My thoughts are the former would be better while the car is in motion while the latter would make the fan more effective when the car is idling. This car will see next to no stop/go traffic once it's done.
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