Quote:
Originally Posted by speedjunkie
And you just use that Molykote to seal between the housings and such or you use it on the coolant rings too? Actually I may be thinking of the same thing there, it's been a while since I put an engine together LOL.
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I use 111 on all rubbers (minus the oil control ring rubbers, before they are installed in the rotors, for before mentioned reasons).
I use it especially on the O'Ring seals for water jackets, it holds them inplace and gives them life long lubrication, I use it especially on the little O'Rings that take oil through the motor as well, but I also use 1215 (as you can see in the photos) around the housings at the legs and also at the oil passages too, I use it on the oil pick up (no gaskets), I use it to seal the front timing covers on non REW blocks which have no new metal gasket, in some cases I just eliminate the front gasket all together.
The main BIG use for the 111 is to retain coolant O'Rings, these are always a pain to keep in before I discoverd this stuff
you can either put it in the goorve if you are skilled like in the photos or you can simply jizz up the O'Ring prior to fitting it in the grooves.
Both products are great! Anyone using them properly I am sure will agree with me
General tips on using them or any sealant, go buy yourself some can's of Brake Cleaner and a bag of white rags and when you can spray the shit on any surface you want to seal and it when you wipe a rag on it if it is not "soiled" then its clean enough! if not clean it AGAIN! till it is CLEAN!! DO NOT drip any engine oil on surfaces you are sealing ANY AT ALL!~ IF so use brake clean and remove all oil/grease/jizz and start again. Proper procedures on all interfaces will give a life long leak free engine. On my RICESP from the engine to the oil drain to the OMP to the Sump there is not one leak of any description to be seen anywhere..... but it takes many hours of proper preparation and being anal to achieve such standards. I HATE LEAKS!
so this is why I am the way I am in regards to this topic.
extra info tips,
Use teh top lid of the brake cleaner to put all the sump bolts into it and spray the **** with brake clean and shake the poofter to death, this will decontaminate all the threads and have them micky mouse! then blow with compressor, and repeat if necessary.
Also use the high pressure brake clean can to clean out all the blind holes where oil, grease, cum can hide, once all cavities are decontaminated then you are ready to mollest your engine
OMP O'ring dress with 111 lightly, but then on the outer edge (carefull to not spread 111 on other surfaces!) apply 1215, and you will never had any leaks from this join to the block@! also all METAL gaskets on the turbo's make sure are degreased and oil free and coat these cunts with 1215, and you will never have any leaks on the turbo returns again......... You get the idea by now I think.
FINAL TIP, be very careful at the end, when you have assembled your block make sure when you turn the engin upside down(assuming you have a proper engine stand) to clean ALL the surfaces on the sump join from any assembly JIZZ that has leaked down and there will be a bit depending on how excited you get. I cant type enough about having a dry grease, oil, semen free surface when you are trying to get a proper seal, the more anal you are the better the result and you will be happy