Quote:
Originally Posted by vex
I hate to say this, but it sounds quite similar to a soft seal letting go. You might want to let the engine sit for a day or two and check to see if you have any pooling coolant in the combustion chamber.
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I assume I check this by pulling the EGI fuse and a spark plug and cranking the engine to see if anything comes out? Spark plugs are also something I need to check.
Quote:
Originally Posted by vex
When mine let go I could easily start it up and run it around town, but as soon as it hit operating temperature the engine would start to run on one rotor. When temperatures got warmer the car got harder and harder to start.
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I drove 2.5 hours back home yesterday at speed >70 mi/hr and I'm positive I didn't loose a rotor, or any power for that matter. If I do have a failed coolant o-ring or rotor housing, it must be very small. The weird thing about the hard starting is that it was easier to start it this morning (ambient temperatures ~65F) after sitting all night than it was yesterday afternoon (ambient temperatures ~80F) after only sitting for ~3 hours.
Quote:
Originally Posted by vex
Also pay attention to dropping coolant levels. You may have a link somewhere (whether it's by the water pump housing, a hose, or internal of the engine).
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I have no found any large external leaks, but that doesn't mean much. When I flush the system this weekend I'll get a much better idea of what kind of shape everything is in. As far as I know the radiator, cap and water pump are all original OEM equipment. I'm pretty sure the thermostat was replaced at some point and if it was I'm almost positive it is not an OEM part.
In the meantime I guess I'll just keep an eye out on the coolant level. The coolant level sensor seems overly sensitive to me, but it hasn't come back on in a while. If nothing changes I can only conclude the conditions simply outmatched the car's 22 year-old cooling system and some upgrades are in order.
Quote:
Originally Posted by 88turboii
it was opposite for me when i had bad coolant seal. it would run on one rotor at start, but after about 15 seconds or so it would run like normal. white smoke on startup, from the coolant puddling in the chambers burning off. that and i could fill the overflow container with a couple 3rd gear pulls lol
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Would the white coolant-smoke and smell make it past two catalytic converters? Aside from Magnecor spark plug wires and a K&N drop-in filter my engine is all stock. The exhaust was replaced after the manifold at some point but it looks to be a stock replacement, not a performance modification. I only ask because I see no smoke and don't smell coolant at the tailpipes.
Quote:
Originally Posted by 88turboii
but yeah i also have overheating problems on the track. it will start creeping past 1/2 way after about 10 minutes of track time, even in cool weather. im still running a tmic, so the radiator should be getting plenty of flow. it was suggested to me to use aluminum tape and seal off all the parts around the radiator that air could get past, but i have not tried that yet
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I was about 20 minutes into the session - literally the last lap before cool-down. As far as I know, this is the only time the gauge crept past 1/2 way during all of the sessions. When I heard the buzzer I looked at the gauge and it was just then starting to move from 1/2 way to "H" - it's not like I ran a full lap at WOT with the gauge pegged at "H".