[FRED]

Tell you what. I went out to lunch and went by RS and picked up two 100 ohm resistors and a couple of diodes. Resistor part number 271-1108 (100 ohms, 1/2 watt) and the diodes were 1N4001.

They didn't have any 50 ohm resistors so I put two 100 ohm in parallel (50 equiv) and one diode of the end of the outfit that attaches to the alternator. Soldered a spade on the end of the diode. Picked off the power from the series four elect plug where the the black/white exists and spliced one wire off there going to the top spade on the alt jack and spliced another wire from the black/white to the end of the resistors.

Key on engine off...............L wire reads 2.65 vdc. Engine on and running , the alt is putting out 14.02 vdc and the L wire reads in the area of 11.5 vdc give or take. Normal as can be. "B" wire reads the 14.02

I'll attach a picture of the *outfit*. This is not professional and was done on the fly just to get results. YOU can make the thing cleaner/smaller and wrap in heat shrink. Like I said, this was done on the fly just to prove something.

I had to remove the series five alt and install one of my old series four to do this. Say "thank you".

I'm not sure you positively need the diodes. I think that is a safety feature just in case the alt goes bad internally and the diode would prevent battery power from backfeeding into the interior fuse boxes circuit. Like drain the batt down overnight if there was a failure of some sort.

Hmmm, come to think of it I don't like the S wire reading 11.5 vdc when the alt is putting out the 14.02. I think what I'd do if I were you , is to find another source of power for the L wire (white/black) and the 50 ohm resistor/diode. That way the S wire should read a normal reading of ??? 14 vdc or so and not the 11.5 as I just mentioned. S wire power comes from the ENGINE fuse and that normally matches whatever the alt is putting out give or take a tash.