Rotary Car Club - View Single Post - alternator connector re-wiring

FRED · 03-27-2011, 02:53 PM

Oh. About the excitation circuit...............the white/black is used for excitation AND for pulling in the Alt relay when the alt isn't putting out (the alt puts a gnd on the white/black when the alt is not spinning thur the internal regulator).

But when the alternator starts spinning and putting out power, the alt puts the output power of the alt on that white/black wire which in turn makes the Alt relay relax becase the plus side of that alt relay has batt power and NOW the neg side of that alt relay also has batt/alt power so the relay relaxes and that removes the gnd from the Warning light assy that WAS there when the alt relay contacts were *made*. Normal operation.

It's like the Engine Electrical section of the FSM says.............the white/black when connected to the alt should show approx 3vdc with key ON, engine OFF but when the engine is started that same white/black wire should show basically the output power of the alternator i.e. 13-14vdc.

So now you can see how the white/black will at times show just 1-3vdc with engine not turning and will show 13-14 with engine spinning. See ENGINE ELECTRICAL or is it electrical engine or is it body electrical???? one of the three.

Either run switched pwr to the white/black or just run one wire from the white/black at the CPU plug to the alternator.

I just realized .........I never see the ALT light in my Warning Light assy come on unless it's key on engine off. Never seen just the Alt light come on. At least not in my memory.

Heck I've never even looked to see which is the alt light in the warning unit. The just all come on when my key is on engine off and that pleases me enough and it never comes on when the engine has been running. Lucky me I guess.

I've played with this circuit in the past. Like remvoe the two wire connector and with key ON put the white/black to gnd and you can hear the alt relay in the CPU click and look and see the warning lights come all on to prove the alt relay and circuit are doing their job. So if one never sees his warning lights come all on with key on engine off, something to do to prove the alt circuit is the culprit is to so just what I described. IF all the warning lights come on you know the CPU and alt relay and wiring from the alt to the warning light unit are good and are just missing the gnd from the internal circuit of the alternator. IF the alt is putting out good one may decide to just forget about fixing the problem 'cause all you've lost is that one function of the warning lights assy. Big deal. Alt regulators can be had cheap for 25-30 bucks to fix that problem....EBAY

Wrote too much. Melandri just won first race of WSK. Bye.

03-27-2011, 02:53 PM	#13
FRED Rotary Fan in Training Join Date: Mar 2011 Posts: 73 Rep Power: 15	Oh. About the excitation circuit...............the white/black is used for excitation AND for pulling in the Alt relay when the alt isn't putting out (the alt puts a gnd on the white/black when the alt is not spinning thur the internal regulator). But when the alternator starts spinning and putting out power, the alt puts the output power of the alt on that white/black wire which in turn makes the Alt relay relax becase the plus side of that alt relay has batt power and NOW the neg side of that alt relay also has batt/alt power so the relay relaxes and that removes the gnd from the Warning light assy that WAS there when the alt relay contacts were made. Normal operation. It's like the Engine Electrical section of the FSM says.............the white/black when connected to the alt should show approx 3vdc with key ON, engine OFF but when the engine is started that same white/black wire should show basically the output power of the alternator i.e. 13-14vdc. So now you can see how the white/black will at times show just 1-3vdc with engine not turning and will show 13-14 with engine spinning. See ENGINE ELECTRICAL or is it electrical engine or is it body electrical???? one of the three. Either run switched pwr to the white/black or just run one wire from the white/black at the CPU plug to the alternator. I just realized .........I never see the ALT light in my Warning Light assy come on unless it's key on engine off. Never seen just the Alt light come on. At least not in my memory. Heck I've never even looked to see which is the alt light in the warning unit. The just all come on when my key is on engine off and that pleases me enough and it never comes on when the engine has been running. Lucky me I guess. I've played with this circuit in the past. Like remvoe the two wire connector and with key ON put the white/black to gnd and you can hear the alt relay in the CPU click and look and see the warning lights come all on to prove the alt relay and circuit are doing their job. So if one never sees his warning lights come all on with key on engine off, something to do to prove the alt circuit is the culprit is to so just what I described. IF all the warning lights come on you know the CPU and alt relay and wiring from the alt to the warning light unit are good and are just missing the gnd from the internal circuit of the alternator. IF the alt is putting out good one may decide to just forget about fixing the problem 'cause all you've lost is that one function of the warning lights assy. Big deal. Alt regulators can be had cheap for 25-30 bucks to fix that problem....EBAY Wrote too much. Melandri just won first race of WSK. Bye.