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Sharingan 19 · 02-03-2011, 03:34 PM

I just did this on my FC, WOW what a difference. I used to get 8v cruising, and sometimes it would drop to 7v in boost, with a max of 10v.

I chose to keep the voltage regulator and relocate it to the rear near the pump running new wires directly from the battery to a new relay, to the regulator to the pump. I did this because I am still on the stock turbo so its not that crucial to have 12v all the time. This is also my daily so having some fuel economy would be nice as well.

Now I see 10v cruising and 13.5 wot!!!

To answer one of the original questions; I believe David Haynes (20b fd) has burnt up a pump running 12v constant, and it didn't even take that long. He was running dual pumps though, ,so I'm not sure if the additional amps played a significant role.

02-03-2011, 03:34 PM	#1
Sharingan 19 Rotary Fanatic Join Date: May 2010 Posts: 138 Rep Power: 16	I just did this on my FC, WOW what a difference. I used to get 8v cruising, and sometimes it would drop to 7v in boost, with a max of 10v. I chose to keep the voltage regulator and relocate it to the rear near the pump running new wires directly from the battery to a new relay, to the regulator to the pump. I did this because I am still on the stock turbo so its not that crucial to have 12v all the time. This is also my daily so having some fuel economy would be nice as well. Now I see 10v cruising and 13.5 wot!!! To answer one of the original questions; I believe David Haynes (20b fd) has burnt up a pump running 12v constant, and it didn't even take that long. He was running dual pumps though, ,so I'm not sure if the additional amps played a significant role. Last edited by Sharingan 19; 02-03-2011 at 03:38 PM.