|
I still need help!
We adjusted the air bypass screw under the elbow. The screw had to be opened 4-5 turns. The dash pot was also adjusted because it was set to engage a little low (2300rpm instead of the 2600-3000rpm). But there is still a problem with the following symptoms.
== At Cold Start ==
Idle: 1500-1700 (low probably due to accelerated warm up (AWS) solenoid, its probably bad, resistance tested on car at 16 outside of 9.3 to 11.3 spec.)
== At Warm Start ==
Idle: 750-775rpm (680-700rpm with 10pin and GRD jumped)
The problem described as tested with engine warm:
- The car idles fairly smooth; kinda like a fast putt putt putt.
- You can now rev the car to 4000rpm and it returns normal to idle.
- If the car is driven without boost (i.e. without stomping on the gas) when coming to a stop, taking the car out of gear, and idle in neutral the car will idle fine.
- If the car is driven with boost (almost full throttle in first gear gets 5-6lbs boost) when coming to a stop, taking car out of gear, and idle in neutral the car will idle very rough (like a pinging/knocking) at 550-900rpm. Seemed to have higher boost before idle screw was adjusted.
- If the car is started and nothing is touched it idles fine. If you turn on anything that draws an engine load (A/C, headlights, fan) the idle is very rough (like a pinging/knocking) and is 800-1250rpm.
- In either of the above scenarios if the car is turned off and immediately back on it will idle normal until one of the above triggers occurs to cause it to idle rough.
Any thoughts would be greatly appreciated as I'm not sure where to test next. It is curious that the problem goes away when the car is turned off and back on. That symptom seems consistent with the previous problems. Could that mean electrical problem, stuck solenoids, ECU (ugh!)?
Thanks for your help. It has been invaluable so far. I hope you guys have some great suggestions or even better a story where you experienced the exact same thing and can tell me the solution.
- James
|