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Yes your assumption is correct and yes you can replace the two bulbs without removing the whole unit. It is going to be a PITA either way. I have done it before and unfortunately I have to do it once again.
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1993 Yamaha GTS1000
1992 Celica Turbo AllTrac
1987 RX7 Sport
1979 Yamaha G1, KM24 powered
1975 Dolmar KMS4
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