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Mobius · 01-20-2010, 08:57 PM

Now, after everything was said and done, the car would not start. I had spark, I had fuel pressure, I had compression. I even tried to pull start it around the block a few times. Nothing. Upon further investigation I found that my primary injectors were stuck closed, by product of being a little old and sitting dry on the shelf for most of a year. Ok, so I send the injectors out to be cleaned and tested. Once everything was buttoned up again...... still nothing. So I start at the beginning: I have spark, I have fuel (pressure and flow), and I have....no.... I don't have compression on the front rotor. WTF?

Turns out I f*ucked up. Like really f*cked up. When I was scrubbing the gunk off of the outside of the irons/housings I had an idea. Why don't I silicon carbide bead blast the suckers, and while I'm at it I'll do the faces of the rotors too. Then, I'll clean out the nice, loose, residue and most of the work will be done. Infamous last words: It won't hurt anything.

If anyone reading this thinks this might be even a remotely good idea (which it isn't), stop thinking immediately. The fine carbon/silicone powder that you create does not come off. At all. I washed every part in a multitude of solutions. I pressure washed. I blasted with air. I took rags and towels and cotton swabs, I even did the ultra sonic thing. All of the parts appeared clean. I rubbed a white cotton swab through every oil passage and it came out as if it were brand new.

So when I was trying to pull start the car, the resulting oil pressure was enough to scour the seemingly clean surfaces and turn the oil into a super abrasive liquid. In a very, very short time I had done this:

I also destroyed my twins, my oil coolers and thermostat (which I'm still trying to salvage), $200 worth of braided oil lines (metering and cooler lines), metering pump, irons, rotors, housings, everything under the front cover...... anything that touched oil is basically junk.

I was confused. How could I have missed this much crap (you can see the stuff in the bottom of the oil pan). So I experimented with my front cover. I put it in a solution caustic enough to strip off powder coating in an hour like it was never there. The inside of the cover was a bright, even silver color. Until you let it sit in the solution for an hour, then you could 'smear' the silver coating. Yet I could not scrub all of it off. It was the same story with every other part. Dry, they seemed fine. After soaking in the solution you could tell every oiled surface was covered in it. Bah.

Anywho, Conroy Ganson came though (at this point I had 2 weeks to finish the car before I had to move) with a low mileage core from a crashed '95 FD. He rebuilt and street-ported it for me, since he's much faster and more skilled at such things than I am.

Here it is being tested with my home made compression tester, and slapped together in the engine bay:

One, single change to it though:

May 2009, the saga is finally over......... no, it's never over.

Stats:

Engine:

- Emissions removal | 2751 Engineering block-off plates
- Aluminum AST
- 3" Custom Downpipe | 3" SS Midpipe | HKS Super Dragger
- Peter Farrel Supercars SMIC
- Magnacor Wires
- Linear stock temperature gauge modification
- Apexi Power FC w/ Commander and Datalogit
- Greddy Turbo Timer
- Street Port
- RA 2mm Super Seals
- Atkins Solid Corner Seals
- Gotham Racing 19 Row Twin Oil Cooler Kit - Destroyed by sludge!
- Innovate LM-1 wideband
- Garfinkle Oil Pan Brace
- KG Parts secondary fuel rail & 1680CC injectors
- Aeromotive A-1000 rising rate FPR
- Greddy pulley kit
- Supra TT Denso fuel pump
- HKS Twinpower ignition amp
- Koyo Aluminum Radiator
- Rx-8 Rear Stationary Gear
- Garrett GT3076R
........... 57mm 0.60 A/R 56 trim coldside
........... 60mm 0.82 A/R 84 trim hotside
- Synapse Engineering 50mm Vband Wastegate
- Synapse Engineering Sequential BOV
- Super Now! Aluminum Motor Mounts

Drivetrain:

- Low mileage stock transmission
- B&M Short Shifter
- B&M shift knob
- BF Goodrich T/A KDW 2 tires:
........245/35/18 front
........285/30/18 rear
- Exedy Hyper Twin Plate Clutch w/ Standard Flywheel

Suspension:

- H&R Lowering Springs on OEM Struts
- OEM R1 Strut Bar

Brakes:

- Brembo Rotors
- Stainless braided lines
- DOT 5 competition brake fluid

Exterior:

- Factory color, Competition Yellow Mica.
- Knightsports side skirts and rear mouldings.
- '99 Spec Tail Lights
- Paint Detail using Zaino products
- Sakebomb Garage Bi-Xenon Retrofit Headlights
- 6000k HID's (foglights)
- Gram Lights 57Pro wheels
........18 x 9.0J +45 front
........18 x 10.0J +50 rear

Interior:

- Center Speaker Gauge Pod
- Prosport Boost Gauge
- Prosport Exh. Temp
- Alpine Deck
- JL Audio component speakers in front doors/pillars
- JL Audio 2-way speakers in rear Touring speaker locations
- Duplicolor Metalcast refinished interior bits
- Innovate X-16 wideband gauge

01-20-2010, 08:57 PM	#3
Mobius Rotorhead Join Date: May 2008 Location: Drumheller, Alberta Posts: 164 Rep Power: 18	Now, after everything was said and done, the car would not start. I had spark, I had fuel pressure, I had compression. I even tried to pull start it around the block a few times. Nothing. Upon further investigation I found that my primary injectors were stuck closed, by product of being a little old and sitting dry on the shelf for most of a year. Ok, so I send the injectors out to be cleaned and tested. Once everything was buttoned up again...... still nothing. So I start at the beginning: I have spark, I have fuel (pressure and flow), and I have....no.... I don't have compression on the front rotor. WTF? Turns out I fucked up. Like really fcked up. When I was scrubbing the gunk off of the outside of the irons/housings I had an idea. Why don't I silicon carbide bead blast the suckers, and while I'm at it I'll do the faces of the rotors too. Then, I'll clean out the nice, loose, residue and most of the work will be done. Infamous last words: It won't hurt anything. If anyone reading this thinks this might be even a remotely good idea (which it isn't), stop thinking immediately. The fine carbon/silicone powder that you create does not come off. At all. I washed every part in a multitude of solutions. I pressure washed. I blasted with air. I took rags and towels and cotton swabs, I even did the ultra sonic thing. All of the parts appeared clean. I rubbed a white cotton swab through every oil passage and it came out as if it were brand new. So when I was trying to pull start the car, the resulting oil pressure was enough to scour the seemingly clean surfaces and turn the oil into a super abrasive liquid. In a very, very short time I had done this: I also destroyed my twins, my oil coolers and thermostat (which I'm still trying to salvage), $200 worth of braided oil lines (metering and cooler lines), metering pump, irons, rotors, housings, everything under the front cover...... anything that touched oil is basically junk. I was confused. How could I have missed this much crap (you can see the stuff in the bottom of the oil pan). So I experimented with my front cover. I put it in a solution caustic enough to strip off powder coating in an hour like it was never there. The inside of the cover was a bright, even silver color. Until you let it sit in the solution for an hour, then you could 'smear' the silver coating. Yet I could not scrub all of it off. It was the same story with every other part. Dry, they seemed fine. After soaking in the solution you could tell every oiled surface was covered in it. Bah. Anywho, Conroy Ganson came though (at this point I had 2 weeks to finish the car before I had to move) with a low mileage core from a crashed '95 FD. He rebuilt and street-ported it for me, since he's much faster and more skilled at such things than I am. Here it is being tested with my home made compression tester, and slapped together in the engine bay: One, single change to it though: May 2009, the saga is finally over......... no, it's never over. Stats: Engine: - Emissions removal \| 2751 Engineering block-off plates - Aluminum AST - 3" Custom Downpipe \| 3" SS Midpipe \| HKS Super Dragger - Peter Farrel Supercars SMIC - Magnacor Wires - Linear stock temperature gauge modification - Apexi Power FC w/ Commander and Datalogit - Greddy Turbo Timer - Street Port - RA 2mm Super Seals - Atkins Solid Corner Seals - Gotham Racing 19 Row Twin Oil Cooler Kit - Destroyed by sludge! - Innovate LM-1 wideband - Garfinkle Oil Pan Brace - KG Parts secondary fuel rail & 1680CC injectors - Aeromotive A-1000 rising rate FPR - Greddy pulley kit - Supra TT Denso fuel pump - HKS Twinpower ignition amp - Koyo Aluminum Radiator - Rx-8 Rear Stationary Gear - Garrett GT3076R ........... 57mm 0.60 A/R 56 trim coldside ........... 60mm 0.82 A/R 84 trim hotside - Synapse Engineering 50mm Vband Wastegate - Synapse Engineering Sequential BOV - Super Now! Aluminum Motor Mounts Drivetrain: - Low mileage stock transmission - B&M Short Shifter - B&M shift knob - BF Goodrich T/A KDW 2 tires: ........245/35/18 front ........285/30/18 rear - Exedy Hyper Twin Plate Clutch w/ Standard Flywheel Suspension: - H&R Lowering Springs on OEM Struts - OEM R1 Strut Bar Brakes: - Brembo Rotors - Stainless braided lines - DOT 5 competition brake fluid Exterior: - Factory color, Competition Yellow Mica. - Knightsports side skirts and rear mouldings. - '99 Spec Tail Lights - Paint Detail using Zaino products - Sakebomb Garage Bi-Xenon Retrofit Headlights - 6000k HID's (foglights) - Gram Lights 57Pro wheels ........18 x 9.0J +45 front ........18 x 10.0J +50 rear Interior: - Center Speaker Gauge Pod - Prosport Boost Gauge - Prosport Exh. Temp - Alpine Deck - JL Audio component speakers in front doors/pillars - JL Audio 2-way speakers in rear Touring speaker locations - Duplicolor Metalcast refinished interior bits - Innovate X-16 wideband gauge __________________ \|\|\| Never argue with idiots. They will bring you down to their level and beat you with experience. \|\|\| Last edited by Mobius; 05-11-2010 at 07:21 PM.