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The FB would fit a 20B better than the FD chassis, but both have a pretty small engine bay. I would say unless you've been building cars for years, have a very high budget and can fabricate yourself - steer clear of the 26B (typical 4 rotor). The 4 rotor will be at least $15k in hard parts (eshaft, rotors, housings, exhaust and intake manifolds, TBs, etc). Thats before you actually stack the engine ($2k in seals and gaskets at least), build the cooling system, fab a cradle, and nickle and dime your way into getting the engine in the car. Then you have to battle with the EMS. I could see thousands of $$ just in tuning the car alone - not to mention finding a decent rotary tuner who can understand the dynamics of a 4 rotor (its actually not as hard as it sounds, but would still take a tuner with experience). There is no point in going to a 4 rotor if you half-assed it by trying to cut corners and cost.
20B would make more sense and give you plenty of power to play with. Still though, if new to rotary... I'd look at dropping a nice 13B turbo configuration in. You can still make 400+ whp with the good 'ol two rotor and you won't run into the structural issues that so many FB guys have when running crazy amounts of power (ask any drag guy what he's had to do to prep his car for that kind of stress).
All this is of course my opinion, but I think its sometimes easy to get "carried away" and I see so many good cars go down the tubes for ill thought out projects.
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