How do I remove....there's a few things
 

I have everything on the front half of the car pulled off, and now am working on the rear.

So, at first I was going to remove just the control arms in the rear, and put in my new toe-link and trailing arms, but I'd like to pull out the subframe as well.

I see two long bolts that connect to the frame. Looks just like the same ones on the front subframe. Besides those 2, what else is there to disconnect? I see a control arm that looks as if it's mounted on top of the differential, is it connected to the chassis anywhere?

What about the CV Joints/Axels? Is this hard to remove from the brake control arms?


_____________

I removed all the bolts/screws from the alternator, and the cover's spin freely, but they don't want to see to come off. What else must I do? I was told heat the rear bearing with a soldering gun? I'm not sure I fully understand this.

Thanks for your help fellas.

.

Not sure why you would want to remove the subframe to change out the Toe and Trailing arms but, if I remember correctly the rear subframe attaches to the unibody in 6 places. The 2 studs you have seen, then just a little forward two braces and then just forward of that the front of the subframe. There are two bolts each on the braces and the front part of the subframe on each side. The axles are held into the diff with a c-clip. Which are fairly easy to pop out with a tug.

If you remove the axle from the spindle (I think this is what you are referring to as the "Brake Control Arms") you will have to replace the bearings. Not the easiest of tasks. Your best bet would be to leave the axle in the spindle and take the spindle and axle off as a unit.

Hope this helps,
Dan

Hope this helps.. Pretty much what Dan said.. But hope the picture helps..

http://rotarycarclub.com/rotary_foru...1&d=1242851605

Thanks guys... that helps a lot. Any idea on the alternator?


Chadwick, I'm sandblasting everything then they are going to the powder coaters.

Phil, from the looks of your picture an impact gun helped a lot. I was going to try and do it with the ol' Irish Knuckle, but I might need to go to Sears for some new air toys.

thanks again.

actually, my electric impact didn't work.. I had to pull out the breaker bar to remove couple of nuts... But I'm sure air impact will be much stronger than what I had.

Regarding alternator...

I took few apart.. but its been awhile.. If I recall, if the front cover doesn't pull off, you might want to get a puller of somesort.. The problem is the shaft gets stuck with the bearing. You kind of have to force it off... Someone else might have a better solution but I ended up using a puller.

I don't recommend putting heat to it at all.
IIRC, once all the outer screws are removed, nothing else but a press-fit is holding the FRONT cover to the stator. What worked well for me was a plastic dead-blow hammer, working around the circumference. EDIT: I just re-read your post. Sounds like the stator shaft might be sticking to the bearing, and the bearing is stuck inside the cover. They are NOT pressed on, it's probably just a little rust/corrosion. PB BLASTER is electronics friendly and if you can get it in there somehow, it might help. A little shock from the deadblow might also help.
Once off, you can remove the rotating parts together...disassembly is pretty obvious.
Again, IIRC, before separating the rear cover from the stator, there are three large phillips-head screws to remove from the inside. Two will be obvious, but one is partially hidden by the wires of the stator. Carefully get a screw-driver in there and support the rear plate where the wires are attached. Too much bending of those large single strand copper wires will fatique them quickly and they could break. I wadded up newspaper into a ball placed it inside the stator to support the rear plate while it sat on my bench.
On re-assembly there's a small rubber plug in the back of the rear housing that will allow a pin to be inserted through it to retain the brushes.

I took the easy route. Took my alternator to a alternator shop and had them remove just the pulley. I did the rest myself, cost $10.00. I had mine ceramic coated and after I reassembled everything had it tested just in case. Worked out well for me.