AUX Port Shaft worn
 

While working with the LIM I noticed that the firewall side Aux Port Shaft easily slides in and out with no resistance [Edit -- meaning that I can pull it out of the manifold and put it back in without removing the cover plate. The c-clip that is supposed to hold it in place was not locking it as it should have.]

After taking off the retaining plate (having to cut a slot into one of the screws because it stripped), I noticed that the c-clip was not holding the shaft in.

In fact both the shaft and the clip look like they have been worn down.

Questions:

1. is this shaft worn beyond repair?
2. can the shaft be repaired by welding/grinding metal back onto the shaft?
3. does anyone have a good shaft they can sell?

I am soaking the other shaft screws in penetrating oil so I can try to get the other shaft out without striping the screws. Once the other is out, I will compare them to see the differences.

I don't know what I'm supposed to be looking at?

This is from the Aux Port Valve. This is the shaft that connects the port valve to the actuator...

See the wear on the collars of the shaft? I'm thinking that it may be too worn to be held by the c-clip.

Hmm, well, shit, I had the opposite problem, one of my actuator rods was seized, so I just removed the rods competely, hammered out the bushings, and put JB stick weld in there, filling in all the holes as well, then when it dried I filed it flat, and put a fresh coat of hi temp silver on my LIM.

Not the best way to fix the problem, but I would rather drive with less power down low and full power up top than to have stuck ports that don't work. I WANTED to keep them, but...

My goal is to keep the car as close to stock as possible. I read your thread about this on the other forum and prefer not to go through all that.

Do you still have the old shafts?

I think you might have two options:

You can either buy a new/used shaft for pretty cheap (I'm thinking somewhere between 20-40 bucks)

or you can try to repair it. File and braze/weld in a new piece and file it some more.

I was able to remove the other shaft (after cutting slots in the screws).

In these pick you can see the difference between the worn pars above and the good parts here.

I obtained a new LIM (thanks Julia)...

When I first pulled the shaft from the 'new' LIM, I noticed for the first time that these actuator shafts are left/right.

So, I got lucky in the fact that the one I obtained had a good left shaft (the reason it was good may be because the c-clip that holds it in place was not installed for some reason).

So, I am now wondering two things:

1. is it possible that the left shafts are bad on many LIMS?
2. can a left be converted to a right and vice-versa?

I cannot answer the first question because I have not pulled enough of these to calculate any statistics.

But looking at the shaft, I believe that if needed a left can be made from a right by:

1. Using a drill press, drill out the pressed indentations - being careful not to drill too deep.
2. Pull the lower section from the shaft.
3. Turn the lower section 90 degreese and reinstall it.
4. Weld (or braise) where the indentations were to secure the lower shaft to the upper.
5. file to make smooth.

Because I have the shaft I need now, I am not in a hurry to try this, but if anyone is interested in giving it a try - or has an opinion, I would be curious to know if this works.

BTW,

I had to cut slots into the screws that hold these shafts in place so I could use a big blade screwdriver to get them out.

I replaced these PITA screws with M4 -.70 x 12 Socket Head Cap Screws with washers. They fit well.

Purchased the sleeve inserts from Pineapple.

I installed them using the pineapple instructions; red loctite and dempeling...

But because I read some horror stories about them sliding back and forth, I decided to lock them in place with a set screw.

The pictures show the inserts in place and on the closed side of the port, you can see the set screws I added.

One new concern in this entire deal is that the sleeves are now almost twice their original weight. Hopefully the actuators will not have trouble with the added weight/drag.

That would be my concern, the weight. Of course it is going to put more strain on the actuators.
If everything is clean and the inserts turn smoothly then there is nothing wrong with the stock setup. I don't see a performance advantage for stock application, meaning using the secondary actuators. For all out performance I would use them.
My experience is to stay on top of your oil changes, make sure the thing gets to full operating temp all the time use good fuel, and get into it so that you use the secondaries at least occasionally. Main reason they carbon up is from non-use. People 'taking it easy' and 'babying it'. Usually seen on those where the new rotary owner was use to a recip that they never took over 4k for fear of hurting it. Have to tell them, drive it take it to red line once and awhile rotaries are meant to rev.
Doing a Redline SI-1 treatment once a year helps also.

I don't have anywhere near as much experience as rx4ur7, but I have seen several engines with failed rotors, with the cause clearly being carbon buildup from the 6PI actuators going through that rotor.

I think that the biggest problem that the weight will cause you is the speed that the actuators can open the 6PI. You may notice that your ports open at a higher RPM point than they did previously (there is really nothing wrong with this).

Revving a rotary is fun for a reason, it helps keep carbon to a minimum and it uses the 6PI system, which keeps it from seizing and beginning the carbon-buildup scenario.

Because I don't put too many miles on the vert anymore, I think that it will not be too much trouble/hassle to check the ports every 20K miles or so. If they seem sluggish or frozen, I will remove/clean/replace them.

BTW,

I have read the same question on several forums...

"I have removed the sleeves and cannot remember in what orientation they go back in."

...I have learned that the short answer is:

On the rear, the big end of the shaft is set at 7 o'clock and on the front, the big end goes to 5 o'colock.

In fact, if the aux port shaft and the pins are in reasonably good condition, they CANNOT be put back together the wrong way without binding.