port work/first rebuild
 

So I blew a motor a month back and decided to do this one myself. I learned a ton after the second iron and went back over the first to match and clean up better. Its taken 12-14 hours so far and I still have the center section to do. I hope to put this back together in a few weeks. This is a pineapple med/Lrg port. Any thoughts on my porting?

no comments? well here is a good one... I needed another housing and I bought a good short block to source 1 but both were 100% perfect! woo hoo1 Anyway I have broken down a few motors before but this one was a bitch! I started last night and spent 2-3 hours on the e shaft bolt alone.. No luck. this morning I put the block on the ground and used a 2 foot breaker bar to hold the flywheel nut and help wedge the block from lifting. Put another breaker on the front with a 4 foot pipe over it and .... no luck., I took it to a friends shop and put a 600lb gun on it .. no luck. He went and got another gun (shop beside his) 1000ft lbs and no luck! I brought the block back to the other shop and tried his huge compresor and the 1000lbs ft gun.. no luck! I was set to go home and cut it off myself and waste the front and eshaft. the guy asked if I wanted him to heat it up with his torch and then try again.. That did it but still was hard to come out.. Crazy!

Glad you got it out, but the front bolt and rear nut can be such a bitch to get off.

that porting looks really good

what tools are you using?

Using a mini air grinder (uses 1/8th bits) Got it a harbor freght for $30.. Makes the job very nice. Its not much bigger than a sharpie. I am using many differant bits from grinder in drums, cones and ball to carbite bits, sand drums, green polishing bits in many shapes.

you mind sharing the info of all the bits and stuff that you are using to port the engine? I am planning to rebuild my first engine and will be doing the porting myself also =) Let me know please, thanks.

-AzeKnightz

Looks great, on the 3rd picture near the closing edge of the port(bottom in your picture but in reality the top of the port), look at where the runner for the port transitions. Grind as much of that away as possible to make a smooth transition for the air flow. Also "back cut" the opening edge(long edge) of the port by making it flow smooth with the runner. While doing this make sure not to let the porting tool hit near the oil control ring path on accident and cut into it.

It really looks great honestly, sorry I didnt reply sooner I missed this thread.

David

I did back cut the opening edge, I could take of a tad more but not much. The pic is angled to showthe back cut. I think that is what makes the lower are (closing edge) apear to need more taking away, although more was removed later. Believe me, I did not port these the smartest way. I totally finished one, started the other and discovered many areas that needed work only to go back and forth remove more and more. I will post the final pics... The hardest area for me is the bowl area. Trying to get a nice clean finish takes so long. Any idea's? I was using a polishing (green) round stone that took forever... Maybe 4-5 stones and 2 hours on each plate. Also the center plate is going to be fun port matching it to a RE mani. Mucho to remove.....

I anwsered that right above your post? If you need additional info let me know. I used 1/8th mini die grinder from harbor freight .I bought a 8 piece carbide kit, the rest is many differant grinders and drums. Know that I know what I like to use it would be easier. In fact then grinder balls, cones and drums I used harbor freight had them in a 5 piece kit on sale for .89 cents. I was buying them in single pieces from a hobby shop for $3 each. The carbide bits are pricey $100 +/- for the kit I bought. Then you will want 80 and 120 small and large sanding drums. 220, 400, 600 sanding paper, 3-1 oil, saftey glasses, a few masks, nitride gloves, lots of time and a calm hand. If you have a bad plate or housing practice on it first.

There is a lot of good info on nopistons.com site about port work. Judge Ito gives some good advice along with a few other respected rotory guys.

I dont take the bowl down past a normal orange sanding stone, you can really change the final texture by the pressure you apply, I dont believe it really smoothing stuff out to the polished level, mazda doesnt do it with the renesis and if I remember correctly even have what they call the "Anti Wet" port on the renesis to help with fuel atomization.

yeah, I read the pros and cons on both a tad rough texture and smooth polish finish.. Well see how it goes....

I have a few more issues I have to figure out if anyone has the anwser's on here that would be great...

When running a RE mani can and do some run the REW TB? or best to run the RE? It has the linkage on the wrong side and the TB sensor is differant..

The fuel rail is differant on the RE.. Do shops sell the afftermarket rails for this? And what about the mounting points for the rail, the are on the top...

I feel this mani and port work shouldflow a good bit more air cant wait to put it on the dyno to see if it ws all worth it..LOL

Mike,

I'll be running RE manifolds on my Blk FD. I've actually designed a manifold adaptor to use REW TB with the RE manifold. Also KG parts make top fed rail for the RE... Thats what I'm running (1600s and 850s). I been lazy and didn't announce the adaptor.. But if you are interested, I could sell you one. Its going to be expensive though ($350-400 Most of it is the machine work and not for me)... but at the same time you could keep all your IC piping the same... Also, it would increase the air being held after TB... Some say this will increase the lower end of the engine.. Who knows.. But shouldn't make too much of a difference...

Let me know.. I'll mate it up and take some pics..

Thanks Phil.. Post up pics. ..

HAve you heard guys opening the re maini's up and cleaning them out? Cutting them length wise open....??

Why do you need an adapter? I was just going to expoxy or weld the lowwer area closed. All else lines up perect. Well the ;linkage is a tad close to plenum..


Post pics please

Here is what I am talking about...