Rotor Side Clearance
 

So this needs to be mentioned:

I get rotors every week from people that are either

• standard OEM
• Not machined properly

If running a rotary engine in serious street car or racing the rotor sides MUST I mean MUST be clearance PROPERLY!

These are two sets I did yesterday, one out of a circuit race car that had done 3 events (brand new stock part).

I get asked all the time, 'but Mazda do a shoulder to stop the tilting on all new rotors" YES I say ............. the C-u-n-t-s do not work! *see proof*
Also the standard of new Mazda parts is a fucking joke, nothing is geometrically correct and parallelism to opposing rotor lands is bad on most and varies rotor to rotor.

I have seen some 'kid run' operations surface grind these LOL. This is NOT how to do this process correctly ALSO just doing the rotor tips or under cutting these IS NOT the correct way either.

I worked this all out when I was 21 years old (long time ago now) and working as a qualified Fitter and Turner putting myself through Mechanical Engineering school after hours, a few decades on I still see the same mistakes being made ............... thus the post here!

Stock molestation:
587bhp (engine dyno) 13B road race car (brand new Mazda Rotors)
http://i.imgur.com/YuYg8Yn.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/MbluLta.jpg

Correct Clearance Completed:
http://i.imgur.com/3ZYXNRw.jpg

I actually had another set here pulled from a 'well known' self professed guru in Sydney who *dumb *c*u*n*t* surface ground the lands down as well as the sides LOL :)
BEWARE there are some fucking morons out there who should not be let near a machine shop!

Correct process carried out will yield more power, less fuel use, and greater durability.

So the way you have them is a tapered face (or just set the depth and the side face the same across) from ~ land height in the middle each side trued to the inner bearing axis?

So in other words leaven the sides alone if youndont know what your doing with the machines?
And isnt a blanchard grinder the best waybaside from a cnc mill?

Just give to a proper machinist who is qualified, not someone who just bought a machine and thinks they know what they are doing.

Here is pic below of 11,000rpm stock rotor with a hole in it LOL, no scuff marks. This is why drag racing should NEVER be used as a term of reference for qualitative product evaluation
http://i.imgur.com/HVKRzgG.jpg

Quite the detonation there!

^ yup, good old microwreck LOL

in fact looking at drag motors is case in point of 'what not to do' and 'what products to NOT run' :lol:

Fuck!!!!!!!!